10 LR4 Transmission Fault Warning while towing 7000lbs

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Huy Tran

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Didn't mean to scare you away from using your truck for it's intended purpose. These are absolutely beautiful and capable trucks. That being said, the transmission does have some problems. But they don't appear as prevalent in the LRs.
The first time I got the error, about 6 months ago, the dealership wanted to just replace the whole thing for about $11,000 as they don't service the internals.
Since then, I've been on some 2k+ mile road trips and some trail runs without any issues.
The last two times this happened, the lattest being last week, it was after the truck had been in what I would call "extreme" conditions. Stop and go traffic for over an hour with the gears constantly changing up and down. I knew I was going to have problem and was expecting it. Sure enough the truck started hesitating and lurching between shifts. Then would throw warning lights, pop out of fourth and the engine would rev higher. Would do that every time I slowed down and speed up again. After I was able to pull over and shut down for about 10 minutes, it started up fine and was able to drive normally for another 15 miles home.
I would consider towing and trailering to be as demanding on the tranny. That's why I installed a remote transmission cooler on my 3/4 ton Silverado.
I consider myself a fair shadetree mechanic and would love to gut and rebuild one of these ZF 6HP, but just don't have the time. Too many other projects...
So will drop it off to an independent mechanic for a rebuild next week.
I'm sure I can get more miles out of it if I keep an eye on it, but I just want peace of mind knowing that it'll be ready for anything.
 

fiatlux

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Huy Tran/ Would you be able to let me know how much you indy shop tranny project would be like? I don't have budget for even $5k or $6k rebuild job for now. :(
 

fiatlux

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I was able to pull out the fault codes in a mechanic shop.
P0826 up & down shift switch input circuit
P0783 3rd 4th shift malfunction.
Online research suggests it probably wiring, harness, voltage issue, not transmission itself. It sounds like I might have dodged worst bullet. But I do not know yet.
On the way back home, it happened again.

I stopped by two indy shops and Land Rover dealer to ask about Transmission Fluid change service. Indy shops estimate $900-$1100 for pan change and everything. LR dealer says that just oil change only with salvaged pan will be $500, if the original plastic pan should be replaced due to crack and other damage, it is going to be $1400.
Which one should I go for? general shop for $900, LR specialist shop for $1100, Dealer for $500 - $1400?
 

Huy Tran

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Well, it's good that your issues might not be as bad. But it still sucks.
I did the fluid, pan, and filter replacement for about $300. The kit I ordered also included the sleve which could be causing your electrical problems. There's some really good write-ups on how to do it if you want to dyi.
I would suggest changing the filter and pan too if you're gonna change fluid. There's lots of old material at the bottom of the pan and the filter. An independent mechanic should be able to handle that.
 

Pfunk951

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Huy Tran

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I keep debating wether I should replace the seals and see if that helps. It's easy and cheap enough to try before spending $4,700 on a rebuild. I would test the solenoids too while the mechatonic is out.
Still need to get an IDII or iLand unit to reset the adaptation.
Anyone has experience with Atlantic British's iLand odb tool? How does it compare to the IDII?
 

gsxr

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ZF is the manufacturer of our transmissions. They call for fluid/filter changes at 60k. Land rover calls for one at 120k (I think) and some LR techs will tell you they are filled for life.
LR documentation has conflicting info. The owner's manual says to change ATF at 120kmi, while the service manual says "filled for life" under normal service, or change at 30kmi for severe service (i.e., any towing use). Screen shot attached below from service manual.

Given that the transmission fluid cannot be completely drained (there is no drain plug on the torque converter) and over half the fluid remains after draining, IMO it would be smart to change the fluid every ~30kmi regardless of if it sees normal or severe service. At least then it's getting almost half new fluid on a regular basis. Dropping the pan to clean it and replace the filter could likely get pushed out to a longer interval with normal service; the fluid change is relatively easy, the filter change is not.

DIY fluid & filter thread is here:
http://www.landroverworld.org/threads/lr4-transmission-fluid-change-pan-swap-option.28828/

LR4_FSM.jpg
 

fiatlux

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pfunk951 / It's very useful tip to know about the mechatronics unit. I'm going to ask my indy shop to do the oil change. I hope they can check the mechatronics unit too, while it's exposed.

So, everyone recommend the conversion kit with a drain plug on for future convenience?
 

Pfunk951

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I certainly do.. I'm not changing the filter for a long time now, and plan on another drain/ refill at 90k..

Mike
 

fiatlux

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Huy Tran / Is it mandatory to reset with IDII or iLand after tranny oil change? If so, there is a big chance non Land Rover specialty shop would not know it or not familiar with it.
 

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