1998 Range Rover Suspension Problems

[rugiem]

My 1998 range rover 4.0 (with over 170,000 miles), suspension keeps getting stuck in either the high or lower position almost twice a week now (it got increasing worse to this point). I love the darn vehicle and its the only one I have. My pocket is is quite empty right now and I cannot afford to either replace or redo the suspension since the dealer is saying it will cost $2200 or more to do either.

It seems to get stuck after about 65 miles of constant driving. It can go longer as long as it is driven short distances. And each time it gets stuck in the high position it eventually lowers to the bottom position where the erratic and uncontrolled bouncing occurs.

BUT IN EACH CASE THE DEALER IS ABLE TO RESET IT ALBEIT FOR ONLY A DAY BEFORE IT HAPPENS AGAIN. They always tell me that its due to a VALVE BLOCKAGE AND MOISTURE BUILD-UP. But they refuse to tell me which valve is it and how it is cleared and get reset. I am charged $95 .00 each time they reset it.

The dealer has recommended replacing the suspension with coil springs, otherwise the work to fix the current system will cost me over $2500. I don't have that much money. I get the feeling they are trying to force me to do it or else I am going to keep paying the $100 every time.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHICH VALVE THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT AND HOW IT GETS RESET?

 

[AVRO]

Go to www.rangerovers.net , there is plenty of info about EAS repairs.

I would recommend to stay away from dealers, they just want to empty your wallet by replacing parts which can be repaired easily. Fix it by own hands, or try to find independent shop or helpful Rover-lover.

If your problem is drivepack beside EAS valveblock, it can be expencive, but not thousands...

 

[rugiem]

Thanks for the info. I believe that is what they are saying. I can do the repairs myself if it only involves parts replacement. but they keep telling me the problems is resolved only by their computer testing mechanism.

I probably need to buy the repair manual in order to know where those parts are located. I know where the EAS box is under the hood but I don't know where the valve box is you are talking about.

Thanks anyway,

 

[trafficboy]

I just traded in my '98 for an '06. I was plagued by EAS problems a few years ago. I towed a ski boat from WA down to CA for vacation and while I was cruising down the freeway the vehicle started to increase in ride height above the standard setting on it's own. The computer was NOT happy with me driving 70 mph in the extended ride height mode and started flashing warnings to slow below 45 mph etc. When I pulled off the road and shut the Rover off it dropped to the bump stops. I had it towed to a dealer who diagnosed the problem ($95 like you experienced) as a stuck #3 exhaust valve on the valve block. After they cleared my BECM faults, the vehicle was fine. Apparently the valve started working again when it cooled down. When I returned home from my trip I had the valve block rebuilt. All you need to do is remove it and replace O-rings.

If you're mechanically inclined at all, I'd do it yourself.

 

[rugiem]

Trafficboy,
I am mechanically inclined somewhat. I don't have a manual now, and hence don't know where it is in the vehicle. I can get to it if I get to know. Is it under the car or under the hood. You are really up to what I am experincing right now. If I get to know what it is I will do it mself unless it requires an expensive mechanical instument to do it. Please help tell me where it is

Rugiem

 

[AVRO]

Valve block & drive pack & compressor is under the hood.

Black plastic box behind air filter housing, it says "EAS" on it.

Only thing when you need dealers computer is if your system went to "hard fault", then it needs reset which can be done only with suitable diagnostic computer. Testbook, Rovacom or Autologic. Offcorse it helps with troubleshooting, but it is not essential.

I would like start with new o-ring and cleaning, as mentioned by trafficboy.