2002 range rover air suspension problems

[raymonday1115]

Hey I just purchased a 2002 range rover and the air suspension does nothing at all. It's sitting at the lowest point it can.
The codes are as follows
Airbag fault
Fuse 15 failled (replaced and blew immediately)
EAS fault
Air suspension controls flash
And the following dash lights are on
ABS
Service engine soon
And an image of a vehicle with and arrow pointing at the undercarriage.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have never owned a range rover or worked on anything with air suspension on this level.

Thanks

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[DaytonaRS7]

you most likely have a failed compressor.
the compressor will fail from old age or being overworked.

it will be overworked if another part of the suspension is causing a leak; bad strut(s) or air suspension diverter valve.

codes would be nice, but im sure the first step is to replace the compressor to get it to (try) and air up. once it has air in the system, you can look for other leaks.

keep in mind that if you have other leaks and the compressor continues to run, you will burn it out. If this is he case, pull teh fuse until the leaks are fixed.

the ABS and service engine light could be directly related to the failed air suspension.


I hope you got a good deal.

 

[raymonday1115]

I've got most of the codes cleared. I read online that a dead battery can cause a hole world of problems so I rest everything and now the only lights that are on are fuel 15 (something with the rear hatch) and EAS (fr signal incorrect) I tested the pump and found a blow relay now the pump works perfectly and all bags hold air so I don't think there are leaks anywhere.
Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting the
fr signal incorrect error?
I'm going to check the plug on the sensor but don't know where to go from there thanks.

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[Ringo]

I'm working on my 2001. It started with a broken rear shock after a mild off-road camp trip. The EAS was fine until I changed shocks. I believe I over extended my RL axle too much and now thatsensor is giving me a fault. It is driven by a potentiometer that by being mechanical, will get dead spots that will cause faults. I'm currently working with a EASBuddy and a volt-ohm meter.
My thought is to like you, check and clean the contacts on the plug, and remove a link so I can hook it to an ohm meter and check its continuity. If its not repairable I'll replace it, but my understanding is the suspension will need to be recalibrated for the new sensor.

I'd like to know what diagnostic tools you are working with as I am shopping around. RWSsolutions looks like the most reasonable bet at the moment. https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 is an open source package for the EAS. You have to buy or build a ODBII-serial or USB cable which is well documented in the documentation and also can be found on sleazebay. The best bang for the diagnostic buck is the V4 package that covers all the cars computer modules, includes the cable, runs on Windows XP - 10. Bottom line is don't want to drop $500 for a diagnostic tool for a 20 year old car that may or may not do the job..

The RR shop manual for the P38 can be found online for free.
Hope this helps, even a tiny

 

[DaytonaRS7]

I'm working on my 2001. It started with a broken rear shock after a mild off-road camp trip. The EAS was fine until I changed shocks. I believe I over extended my RL axle too much and now thatsensor is giving me a fault. It is driven by a potentiometer that by being mechanical, will get dead spots that will cause faults. I'm currently working with a EASBuddy and a volt-ohm meter.
My thought is to like you, check and clean the contacts on the plug, and remove a link so I can hook it to an ohm meter and check its continuity. If its not repairable I'll replace it, but my understanding is the suspension will need to be recalibrated for the new sensor.

I'd like to know what diagnostic tools you are working with as I am shopping around. RWSsolutions looks like the most reasonable bet at the moment. https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 is an open source package for the EAS. You have to buy or build a ODBII-serial or USB cable which is well documented in the documentation and also can be found on sleazebay. The best bang for the diagnostic buck is the V4 package that covers all the cars computer modules, includes the cable, runs on Windows XP - 10. Bottom line is don't want to drop $500 for a diagnostic tool for a 20 year old car that may or may not do the job..

The RR shop manual for the P38 can be found online for free.
Hope this helps, even a tiny

gap IID tool.

https://lucky8llc.com/collections/l...gap-diagnostic-iidtool-bluetooth-connectivity

email and ask nicely for a discount, shoudl get you 480-490 shipped. still alot, but it will do anything you need, and then some.