2014/2015 LR4 Brake pad wear

[jwest]

$500 of labor would be worth it for me (no more though) because it gets you to build a relationship with the dealer, there is some warranty involved, and you do avoid a bit of an annoying job on a very heavy car that is tough to lift.

But a full brake job likely takes only 2 hours max - especially on a newer car where the rotors haven't been stuck on for 6 years and everything is rusty.

For me, having a full-size hydraulic lift and good tools, I would pay no more than $3-400 for labor.

I do think $900 is a lot for parts. My 911 Turbo parts are $1300. And those are enormous, high performance parts. My 3-series BMW parts used to be somewhere around $500 if I remember correctly (and they lasted 40-50k miles - like most). So yeah, for parts that don't last particularly long, the LR4 has an expensive brake habit.

First of all, I find the lr3 is no more difficult to lift than my BMW or any car. I still have to roll out a floor jack and slide it under the right spot. I usually place two on one side at a time and lift the whole side at once.

I don't think the lr3uses brakes any quicker, it's the people who do, not the vehicle. My factory set went 65k -ish and the aftermarket rotors still have hardly any lip now.

On your 911, do you have floating rotors where you can just replace the outer ring?

 

[mbw]

Do I need to replace the wear sensor if the light has not gone off yet? I need to measure my rear rotors, but I am thinking about just doing rear pads and leaving the rotors and sensor if they are in spec.

 

[umbertob]

No, but you may want to keep a spare sensor nearby anyway. Those things have been known to crumble to pieces when you remove them off the old pads or mount them on the new ones, if they have been there long enough. My indy shop replaces them routinely even though they have not been triggered, thankfully they are cheap (by Land Rover standards, anyway...)

 

[mbw]

No, but you may want to keep a spare sensor nearby anyway. Those things have been known to crumble to pieces when you remove them off the old pads or mount them on the new ones, if they have been there long enough. My indy shop replaces them routinely even though they have not been triggered, thankfully they are cheap (by Land Rover standards, anyway...)

Thanks. They are pretty cheap, ill just pickup a set. (I am about due for my rear brakes, so ill try to document the job for the heck of it)

 

[TXLR4]

yep mbw, if this is the first time you're touching the brakes on the lr4, it's likely all you need are pads. as im sure you read above, i had a bit of a problem when i tried going with some "sub-par" rotors that really didnt even need replacing. If you're not getting any vibration and they measure more than 17mm...put new pads on and keep on truckin!

As for the sensor, mine was "ok" but could definitely tell they aren't the most well built pieces of equipment. I went ahead and replaced mine because it wasn't all that difficult and the $20 was worth it for me to have the piece of mind that i'm not putting a crumbly part back on there. Don't wanna have to pull it apart again if I dont have to.

 

[whydahdvr]

Morning all!
I've got to replace my front and rear brake pads and rotors according to the dealership. I've become a bit frustrated with them and want to do the work myself. I think that DiscoMike said he could walk us through the job, for those that haven't done it before, so I'm looking for a step-by-step guide to doing the work myself.
Questions:

• Will doing the brake work myself void my extended Ford ESP warranty?
• What equipment will I need?
• What are the best recommended rotor and brake pad set up to use? OEM Land Rover or an after-market?
• Which LR parts supplier do people think is best for brake parts? I figure they're all good but sometimes one is better for something than another.

Thanks for your help!
-JJB