That is a little quick but not crazy. Snap a pic of the pads installed. Was it a shop that told you they needed replacing? They could be crooked. Yes you can reuse the rotors if they are not worn beyond service limit.
2015 LR4 BRAKES
- Thread starter Gusterson
- Start date
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howardduff
Full Access Member
I also have a 2105 LR4 with 56k miles. I have replaced both the front and rear pads and sensors. I did not replace the rotors but I did replace the sensors. To replace the rear sensor you have to drop the spare tire and it isn't that difficult. The front is a pain. You have to remove the inner wheel cover which is held in place with plastic rivets. Make sure you have the rivets available because most of mine were destroyed when I removed them. You shouldn't have to replace the rotors unless they are grooved or in really bad shape. If you decide to replace the rotors make sure you know how to remove them since the emergency brake is in the drum part on the back side of the rotor. Read the Bodsy Brake Bible referred to above.
I have replaced brake pads on several vehicles and I always clean the area that the pads slide really good. If the pads don't slide easily they may not release as designed and may ware out prematurely. Probably what happened to Graeham B's above. I have also filed the ears on the pads to make sure they slide. When they punch out the backing plates they have flash line that is a little oversize that needs to be filed down. It is suggested that the stainless slide covers are replace when new pads are installed. Also make sure you replace the pins in the same position they were removed. This is especially important on the front brakes. There is a listing on this forum that shows what will happen if you mix this up.
Also bend a metal coat hanger to hang the calipers while you work on fitting the pads. You don't want to let them hang from the brake line.
I replaced the front pads with ceramic and the black dust has decreased. There is a round vibration dampener on the front outer pad that is important. The first pads I got from a local parts store didn't have them.
Get some good disk brake grease for the pins and tighten all the bolts tight, you shouldn't have any problems and you will save a bunch of money by not going to a dealer.
I have replaced brake pads on several vehicles and I always clean the area that the pads slide really good. If the pads don't slide easily they may not release as designed and may ware out prematurely. Probably what happened to Graeham B's above. I have also filed the ears on the pads to make sure they slide. When they punch out the backing plates they have flash line that is a little oversize that needs to be filed down. It is suggested that the stainless slide covers are replace when new pads are installed. Also make sure you replace the pins in the same position they were removed. This is especially important on the front brakes. There is a listing on this forum that shows what will happen if you mix this up.
Also bend a metal coat hanger to hang the calipers while you work on fitting the pads. You don't want to let them hang from the brake line.
I replaced the front pads with ceramic and the black dust has decreased. There is a round vibration dampener on the front outer pad that is important. The first pads I got from a local parts store didn't have them.
Get some good disk brake grease for the pins and tighten all the bolts tight, you shouldn't have any problems and you will save a bunch of money by not going to a dealer.
Graeham B
Member
Where would you order brakes from? I can’t see to find it under $550ish range. With $60-70 shipping it would only save me $100 or so from my indie shop. They’re only asking for $740 for front discs/pads/cable and they warranty it against squeaks (which I’ve had issues with).
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DaytonaRS7
Full Access Member
If you are ok with going non-OEM, www.rockauto.com has great prices, you'll be about $140 for parts.
Even selecting quality aftermarket you'll end up around $50/rotor, $30 for pad set, and reuse your sensor if it's not illuminating your dash. Otherwise, its $10. Shipping isnt included in the prices, but they are very reasonable.
Graeham B
Member
I’m pretty scared of non-OEM. Do they stop as well? These tanks are big and the good brakes have literally saved my life before (tractor trailer flipped on the interstate and I laid into the brakes)
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Quijote
Full Access Member
I recall a pretty lengthy discussion about this topic months ago here. In short, there are quality aftermarket discs for less than OEM. I personally use OEM but admittedly I only put 7k miles a year on average. I do get suspicious when brake components are too cheap.
95% of all rotor blanks are made in China. There are a handful that are not (EBC ? Zimmermann Germany). Centric which I recommended earlier supplies rotor blanks to many of the fancy drilled rotor companies. It is the sAme with brake pads, there is lots of good aftermarket stuff out there. Again Centric is fine (buy the top line ones) or if you like made in The USA Akebono is very good. I have used many of their pads without complaint. Just stay away from bargain basement house brands and you will be fine.
There has been a lot of discussion about brake pads+rotors in the past. Search the forum and read the old threads. The OEM Ferodo pads are not expensive; EBC are not cheap. Do your homework before switching to ceramics.
Rotors/discs only need replacement if worn below service limit, or damaged. Measure the thickness!! Usually you can wear out multiple sets of pads before needing to replace rotors.
If rotors really are worn out and need replacement: Beware of off-brand or unusually inexpensive rotors. You're not going to get quality discs for $25 each. Zimmerman appears to still be made in Germany, EBC may still be made in UK. OE costs double. Anything else, you know where it's made. FCP has Zimms for ~$70 front, ~$55 rear, with lifetime warranty (!), free shipping. They don't carry Ferodo pads, but RMEuropean does.
You're not going to get quality stuff for much under $400 total if shopping for front+rear complete kits. But it is unusual to need front + rear at the same time. If not changing pad compounds, front can be done separately from rear. Oh, and don't get old rotors "turned"... if they need it, replace them instead.
Rotors/discs only need replacement if worn below service limit, or damaged. Measure the thickness!! Usually you can wear out multiple sets of pads before needing to replace rotors.
If rotors really are worn out and need replacement: Beware of off-brand or unusually inexpensive rotors. You're not going to get quality discs for $25 each. Zimmerman appears to still be made in Germany, EBC may still be made in UK. OE costs double. Anything else, you know where it's made. FCP has Zimms for ~$70 front, ~$55 rear, with lifetime warranty (!), free shipping. They don't carry Ferodo pads, but RMEuropean does.
You're not going to get quality stuff for much under $400 total if shopping for front+rear complete kits. But it is unusual to need front + rear at the same time. If not changing pad compounds, front can be done separately from rear. Oh, and don't get old rotors "turned"... if they need it, replace them instead.
Quijote
Full Access Member
Agreed. I bought a full OEM set at 3 years/20k miles since new (rear pads where fairly worn), and only recently changed the rear pads a second time (they seem to last me 20k miles). The rear rotors still had plenty of life at 40k miles but were rusty and the car was having a slight vibration. Since I already had them, I put them on. My front pads were replaced at over 30k miles and I still have a the new set of OEM front rotors since the original ones have plenty of life. At 42k miles I expect the front pads to last me 20-25k more miles (3-4 years for me) and maybe then, for the hell of it, I will install the new rotors. But I am certain they will still have plenty of life.
Oh, the current, 3rd set of rear pads are EBC yellow and I can't tell a difference from OEM. Everything else is OEM.
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