jlglr4
Full Access Member
That takes all the fun out of it.
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agree 100%.I can't believe people even try to bleed like all this ^^ ..... its nuts. Just get one of these vacuum filler tools. It seriously takes me 5 minutes total to fill my coolant after I drain it. I have never touched the bleed points on my engine... ever. Plus I am sure the system is leak tested and nothing is busted all in one step.
You drain from the lower radiator hose, put that back on, slap the tool on, draw vacuum, put the hose in a bucket of coolant, open it up and it fills to perfect level... done.. no fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...ols+vacuum+fill+coolant&qid=1603834427&sr=8-2
I don't doubt this saves time but no more than I plan on doing this (never again) I won't get my money's worth. Thank you for sharing the link just in case I give up on the old school way.
I found a leak originating from the thermostat assembly so I replaced it. Since I am sitting at 160k miles I thought it would be a good idea to change the coolant. After draining the old and flushing the system I filled with new. The problem I am having is I am not getting heat from the rear controls but I am in the front. I found 3 bleeder valves to open at different times during the filling process. The coolant exiting the bleeder valve nearest the battery is hot but the one closest to the overflow tank is cold. Do instructions exist on how to properly replace the coolant and if so could someone please share this with me? I am getting a check engine light illumination and it gives me a code of P0126, Insufficient Coolant Temp For Stable Operation. This has me a little concerned. Thanks in advance!
Success!There is a bleeder on the crossover-pipe. Right dead center in your image. More like a cap that pops off rather than a screw type bleeder.
Word of caution, though - if you haven’t replaced that crossover tube, the plastic might be brittle. You probably should get an extra cap/plug from the dealer before you use this bleed point (they’re about $7 as I recall).
You might be able to get it to bleed out just using the other three points. Not sure, but might be worth a try first.
In the procedure I used, that crossover was the first bleed point (engine off), the firewall was the second bleed point (engine off), the expansion tank bleeder was left open perhaps to allow air to escape the tank - but I don’t remember fluid ever coming out, and the bleeder on the radiator hose was the last bleed point (engine running).
I didn't notice a "big" burp but apparently just enough. I definitely had to fill a couple more inches of fluid but I might have lost that during the bleeding process.Nice!. You got a big ol burp of air out of it?
I can't believe people even try to bleed like all this ^^ ..... its nuts. Just get one of these vacuum filler tools. It seriously takes me 5 minutes total to fill my coolant after I drain it. I have never touched the bleed points on my engine... ever. Plus I am sure the system is leak tested and nothing is busted all in one step.
You drain from the lower radiator hose, put that back on, slap the tool on, draw vacuum, put the hose in a bucket of coolant, open it up and it fills to perfect level... done.. no fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...ols+vacuum+fill+coolant&qid=1603834427&sr=8-2