2015 LR4 Head Gasket Replacement

[AaronRover]

No, it did not overheat after the coolant refresh. And it still does not overheat, they said even when they run it now it wont over heat.

How can I go about a pressure test myself?

I had the coolant done because I knew there was a leak under the super charger, originally it was the water pump which I had replaced and I think the pipes burst/split after having the new water pump put on. Possibly due to more pressure after the install.... not sure.

 

[AaronRover]

I had the coolant system freshened up in 2022 at an independent shop for about $1500, water pump, front and rear crossovers, fan and serpentine belts, some of the hoses. Not the thermostat housing though, as they didn't recommend it be replaced if there were no symptoms. You had a bit more work done with extra hoses and the oil cooler too, but it should not have been thousands more IMO. I'd find a different shop if you can.

I wish mine had not cost as much as it did, I feel like an idiot now. Live and learn.

I believe the coolant work was around $4k then the control arms were around $1500.

I had them do an oil change and change the brake fluid... even still, $7800 seemed a bit excessive. I paid it with the hopes that I would have a vehicle back that would be running as normal for quite some time. Not to just go into another problem and spend another $8k, at this point it is almost a total loss to me.

 

[TB1960]

I just had an head gasket issue with my 2013 LR4. it has about 130,000 miles on it. The issue was when I really jumped on the throttle white smoke would come out of the tailpipe. My indie repair shop found carbon in the radiator coolent. Instead of a $8,500 head gasket repair they suggested and I egreed to try a head gasket sealer product called Blue Devil. I have only had the car back for a week, but, it seems to have fixed the issue, at least for now.

 

[Untyped]

I am super sorry what you are going thru.... I friggin hate shops. The only time I go to a shop is for a wheel alignment and even then I had been close to say **** it I will do old school alignment with ropes and stuff...

Don't be afraid to tackle the job... it's not for everyone but everyone can learn with time. There will be a lot of trial and error and you will most definitely blow your budget for the repair due to having tools, and unexpected things coming up in your way... but someone said here... the satisfaction is on another level! Also all the tools that you will buy can come handy in the future.

But do a compression test with a kit.... Amazon has it probably for $50 and you will need a compressor... pan cake one from FB marketplace for another 50-100 will do.

Or even easier get one of those kits that test for exhaust leaks in the coolant system(changes the color from blue to yellow I believe)

I have not done this kind of job on a LR but have done it on a Volvo, Fiat and Toyota... the principles are the same.

If you gonna sit on the car until paid off then might as well try to fix it?

But like someone suggested... start with proper diagnoses... that shop seems like a scam based on your reports.

 

[RoverTide]

I had the coolant done because I knew there was a leak under the super charger, originally it was the water pump which I had replaced and I think the pipes burst/split after having the new water pump put on. Possibly due to more pressure after the install.... not sure.

This is an interesting comment to me... This makes it sound like you may have had a head gasket leak prior to having the cooling system work done. Its possible the original leak under the supercharger could have been caused by combustion pressure building up in the cooling system, and when you "fixed" the leak, it found the next weakest point to leak out of. Just not sure a new water pump by itself would cause too much pressure.

It also sounds like that shop already did an exhaust gas leak test and found exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system. You can either believe them or test it yourself using this cheap tester from harbor freight... You'll need to buy the fluid as well. I would definitely do a compression test to see how bad the head gasket failure is. Then make the decision if you want to tackle the head gasket(s) repair, try some head gasket sealer, or maybe even put in a remanufactured engine.

I have been in your shoes, and its not fun... Would have been nice if they did an exhaust gas leak prior to the first $8k repair job. Fortunately, this forum is the best resource you will find for help... mechanical or emotional.

 

[AGLR4]

They did a test to determine exhaust was mixing with the coolant. I am willing to risk it because I wont put another $8k into the vehicle that I just spent that much on while owing $18k. I either pick it up and it sits for the remainder of the loan, or I try to fix it myself.... if I am successful then I will sale it and repay what is left on the loan. If I fail, then it sits anyway. I really am not sure what to do.

The test looking for exhaust gas in the coolant should be pretty definitive. If it's still running fine with just a slight misfire then you have likely averted damage to the rest of the engine so far as long as you don't run it out of coolant. You can repeat the exhaust in coolant test using a test kit from any auto parts store yourself at home if you want. You could also let it idle with the coolant reservoir cap open and see if you see bubbles in there, that would also prove that exhaust gas is slipping into the coolant system.

Bottom line is that these engine blocks are aluminum. The heads are also aluminum. Aluminum expands and contracts quite a bit with every heat cycle. The headbolts stretch and pull on the threads in the block every time the engine heats up. Eventually, the fine threads in the engine block give way and the clamping force at the loose headbolt drops and a small leak develops at the cylinder. This is sometimes subtle and could be overlooked during a head gasket replacement and only noticed when trying to torque the head bolts down at the end. One bolt will just strip out. The correct way to fix this for long term success is to drill out all of the threads in the block and replace them with steel inserts. This is no small task but I am proof that this can be done at home in your own garage without prior engine building experience as long as you take your time and ask questions if necessary.

 

[AGLR4]

2011 LR4 5.0 Head Gasket replacement documentation - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

LR4 - 2011 LR4 5.0 Head Gasket replacement documentation - New to the Landrover community. Recently acquired a project 2011 LR4 with 120,000 miles. - slow coolant loss - failed block test - suspect head gasket failure I will use this thread to document progress and share lessons learned.

landroverforums.com

If you haven't already come across that thread on the other land rover forum, Take a few minutes to peruse it. It should give you a pretty good overview of what I went through to do what you're considering.