5.0L Crankshaft Seal Leak, Request Advice

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Longtrail

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Yeah same as Rover Range - I installed a new cover; here are the torque specs:
1761669884479.png

Here are a few parts:
Crankshaft pulley bolt - https://parts.landroverlakebluff.co...20-land-rover-crankshaft-pulley-bolt-lr011952
Crankshaft seal - https://parts.landroverlakebluff.co...010-2020-land-rover-front-crank-seal-lr010706 (not needed if you buy the cover)
Cover - https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2012/land_rover/lr4/engine_mechanical/timing_cover.html
 

powershift

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Yeah, not a major repair. The crank bolt might be a challenge. Plenty of while you are in there work if you are DIY. Might as well do the front cross over and all the other common fail points.
 

almost_nick

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Yeah, not a major repair. The crank bolt might be a challenge. Plenty of while you are in there work if you are DIY. Might as well do the front cross over and all the other common fail points.
Yea, I was thinking about maybe doing the timing chains. I’ve already done the coolant system since that leaked 4 years ago. Also maybe the “new style” vacuum pump since the old one is known to leak.

For the timing chains, I have a 2013, I know they went to the new upgraded tensioners in ‘13 models. Does anyone know how these upgraded ones have held up?

I don’t want to replace the chains/tensioners if I don’t have to, but will if it’s a good idea while I already have a bunch of stuff torn apart. Just don’t know if they are a common problem on the 2013 models. (Currently at 88,000 miles)
 

powershift

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Yea, I was thinking about maybe doing the timing chains. I’ve already done the coolant system since that leaked 4 years ago. Also maybe the “new style” vacuum pump since the old one is known to leak.

For the timing chains, I have a 2013, I know they went to the new upgraded tensioners in ‘13 models. Does anyone know how these upgraded ones have held up?

I don’t want to replace the chains/tensioners if I don’t have to, but will if it’s a good idea while I already have a bunch of stuff torn apart. Just don’t know if they are a common problem on the 2013 models. (Currently at 88,000 miles)
On my '12 the engine idle noise was plenty of evidence the chain tensioner was failing. Couldn't hear it while at WOT or driving around.
 

almost_nick

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Ok, after doing some more research, and before I commit to the job. Just wanted to make sure I am thinking along the correct path.

Looks like to get to the timing chain cover, I’d need to (not in exact order):

1. Remove air intake boxes
2. Drain coolant
3. Disconnect coolant hoses around the area in front of the engine
4. Remove fan and shroud
5. Drain oil
6. Remove belts
7. Remove Tensioner (#3?)
8. Remove idler pulley (#1?)
9. Remove coolant pump pulley (#2?)
10. Remove Crankshaft Pulley #4

Then I should have access to the timing chain cover, correct?

Please let me know if I’m missing anything, or removing items that do not need to be removed…
 

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Longtrail

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You'll need a belt tool for the front belt (mostly for putting it back on):


1761868585931.png

While in there I'd be looking at the hoses, front crossover, water pump to oil cooler, ...

You can only turn the engine clockwise when viewed from the front of the vehicle.

I used these to get the fan off:


I think you're list looks pretty good, I don't do it every day so Rover Range is your man here :)
 
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almost_nick

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So got a quote from the dealer just out of curiosity. Of course it was steep. But what threw me off is that they want to charge me for a new crank pulley… as long as it’s not damaged I should be able to use the same pulley, right?

Quote attached.
 

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