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1971s2av8
Guest
Hi, I've got a late 80's, carburated, 3.5l Rover V8 (sits in a Series now). Was rebuilt around '03, and just now getting a run-in as I've finished my Series Rebuild.
Problem is: Last year, was running great, then under load (up hill) lost all power, ran very rough, and died. Would restart after a bit of 'rest', but couldn't handle any throttle at all.
I replaced the Coil, Accumulator, and Points (made adjustments, etc) and got it running again. Ran great for about 50 miles, then exact thing happened as before (all power cut out under load).
It will start and run great for a few minutes, then cuts out again... Almost as if it's heat related.
I've checked the vacuum advance is advancing the timing, I've tried new dizzy cap and HT/Plug leads.
I've noticed that when it's cutting out, the (after market) tachometer seems to cut down to zero as the engine is missing, sputtering, and backfiring. Again, after a bit of a 'rest', it starts and runs again, cutting out (or dying at idle) after a couple minutes.
I'm not sure if I can rule out vapor lock, but it really seems electrical. I don't have a scope to look at the coil voltages, etc... so any advice is appreciated!
Shawn
Problem is: Last year, was running great, then under load (up hill) lost all power, ran very rough, and died. Would restart after a bit of 'rest', but couldn't handle any throttle at all.
I replaced the Coil, Accumulator, and Points (made adjustments, etc) and got it running again. Ran great for about 50 miles, then exact thing happened as before (all power cut out under load).
It will start and run great for a few minutes, then cuts out again... Almost as if it's heat related.
I've checked the vacuum advance is advancing the timing, I've tried new dizzy cap and HT/Plug leads.
I've noticed that when it's cutting out, the (after market) tachometer seems to cut down to zero as the engine is missing, sputtering, and backfiring. Again, after a bit of a 'rest', it starts and runs again, cutting out (or dying at idle) after a couple minutes.
I'm not sure if I can rule out vapor lock, but it really seems electrical. I don't have a scope to look at the coil voltages, etc... so any advice is appreciated!
Shawn