Bushing/ Tie Rod ?

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NickLR3HSE

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Well it looks like its not my control arm bushings that are creating the knock, at least what the shop tells me.

Its just the tie rods that shack when you grab them, would this cause the knock when driving and the vibration in the steering wheel.

Lr3 has 48K miles 2006 LR3 HSE. Would it be wise to just change out the front control arms now, or should i wait til the bushings wear out, which could be quicker than not.

Whats a fair price to replace just the tie rods?
 

blackforestham

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If you feel a clunk in the steering wheel, it's most likely an intermediate shaft issue related to the steering column. Clunking not felt in the steering wheel usually leads to the 1. lower control arms 2. Anti-Roll Bar bushings 3. Upper control arms (more rare) or a combo of the previously stated items. You can easily shim the ARB bushings on your own if you want to save money. There is an official Land Rover part number for the flat shim used. Contact your Parts Dept for more details. Everything else, go to an experienced Independent shop (on modern Rovers - '05 and up) or the Dealer.
 

kingfishgrapeja

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You're not really going to save labor by replacing the control arms as well. If the shop is claiming that it is the TRE's then I would start there. You can check it out yourself by jacking each side up and moving the tire back and forth by pushing and pulling at 3 and 9 o'clock and seeing what moves. Grab at 12 and 6 to check ball joints.

If you sourcing the sound of the knock as coming from inside the cabin, your intermediate steering shaft is likely causing it.

It is entirely likely that a combination of components could be due though.
 

ryan-in-oregon

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At 48k Miles on mine the intermediate shaft was replaced. At 52k miles the bushings were shot to the point of clunking. If the tierod ends are bad now the only place you will save some coin is if you end up doing the bushings in 4k miles like I did you won't have to pay for a second alignment. Otherwise there is no labor savings in doing them right know.
 

NickLR3HSE

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At 48k Miles on mine the intermediate shaft was replaced. At 52k miles the bushings were shot to the point of clunking. If the tierod ends are bad now the only place you will save some coin is if you end up doing the bushings in 4k miles like I did you won't have to pay for a second alignment. Otherwise there is no labor savings in doing them right know.

Thanks for all the replys. I was just thinking since i already am going to have it in the shop i might as well replace the lower control arms if that is going to be something that goes to **** within the next few 1000 miles. What is a reasonable price to have the tie rods changed out?
 

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