Check Engine Light

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Gomie

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Posts
10
Reaction score
0
got my thermostat in the mail today from bputah, install took about an hour, i had a hard time getting the spring to compress so i could get the new thermostat properly seated, i ended up compressing the thermostat with my hand and used a channel locks in my other hand to turn the fastener under the lock in the housing.
 

amosier23

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Posts
16
Reaction score
1
P0128 code

I got this code a couple weeks ago, and after reading this thread I ordered a new t stat and o-ring from British Atlantic (super fast shipping), and replaced it this past Saturday. The old t stat rubber ring around it was torn and slightly coming off. It was a pretty easy fix after reading the other posts. The spring is tight but I also used my hand to compress then used pliers to turn it in position. Took all of 20 minutes to change out. When I cranked the engine, I got some some screetching noises from where some of the spilt coolant got inthe belts which was a little alarming, but that when away after about 20 seconds. The truck seems to be running great and there is less reving when I first start the car. The CEL has not come back on so I feel pretty good about it. Thanks to everyone that has listed details on their experiences. It probably saved me hundreds at the dealership.
 

jptruck

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2006
Posts
543
Reaction score
20
Ditto that question. I got a check engine light over the weekend and want to avoid going all the way to the dealer.
 

f1loco

New Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Just to to Autozone or the like and get a Code Reader device - around $25. Plug it in under the dash, turn the key on, and press "read". It will then show the code numbers. Write them down. Press "ERASE" and the CEL will clear. If the reader doesn't have a booklet of codes, just google them. If it is showing "engine not warming within time" that would be the thermostat. I'd recommend disconnecting the hoses to the housing and taking the housing off (at least on a LR3) as the thermostat is not a self contained unit and is under pressure. You don't want any bits or pieces going into the housing and having to fish them out... I speak from experience on that one...
 

Rogo

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Posts
109
Reaction score
1
Ditto that question. I got a check engine light over the weekend and want to avoid going all the way to the dealer.

Most auto parts stores have code readers that you can "check out" and use on site, or they will accompany you to the parking lot.
 

amosier23

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Posts
16
Reaction score
1
I bought a Black and Decker code reader that works great. You just plug it up and it'll give you a code within seconds. It also shows how severe the problem is. With the thermostat error code, it said it was something that could be fixed within a few days, i.e. not an immediate fix needed. It also allows you to clear the code so your CEL goes out. After I changed my thermostat, I cleared the code and it hasn't come back on so I'm confident that was the problem.
 

shoei_1411

New Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Check engine light/bought code reader

Got the check engine light on my LR3 HSE 2006 which we got 2 weeks ago 2nd hand, private seller. So bought code reader off amazon, the codes I got back were P0128 and P0441. I'm going to order the parts for the thermostat and do the install, will let you know how it goes, still working out what I need to do for the P0441. I'm not a Mechanic at all, always owned Toyota's, but wanted a 4x4 and LR3 are very popular in Australia and the prices in the US are pretty good hence the LR3 purchase, I just knew that I would be learning how to fix stuff on my own(with the help of forum of course).
 

JackMac

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Posts
673
Reaction score
5
I just did the DIY thermostat replacement yesterday. Thank you to those who documented the process.

Just wanted to add two items.

1) Putting the new thermostat in place was difficult due to spring pressure, as others have noted. After trying for way too long, I decided to remove the 3 hose connections to the thermostat housing, and took the housing and new thermostat over to the workbench. 5 minutes later, it was done. Much easier to work with on a bench than under the hood.

2) For those who had questions about assembly, below is a pic showing the old unit and new one, in the proper configuration. You can see how the old rubber ring had separated.

IMG_8274Small.jpg
 

bbyer

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Posts
895
Reaction score
151
Location
Alberta
****** / hat matters

Ok swapping mine out today. Problem, when I went to undo the old one, wasn't expecting the tension and it all went flying. Trying to assemble new one correctly? Help?

I think it is small spring, large side up, then the little ****** on the top of the thermostat shaft, followed by the big spring under and the retaining piece then that locks underneath the big spring? Anyone? Just not sure on the small spring and the ****** placement...

This link also has some good pdf's re the thermostat change and makes reference to the ******/hat in picture 5A. The A is because it got forgotten about in the first attempt to replace the thermostat.

http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php?18198-How-To-Replace-your-Thermostat


The link below relates to what can wrong when you replace the thermostat - a piece of plastic breaks on an associated hose. A BIC pen will solve the problem while you are waiting for parts; alternatively a couple of 3/8" brass hose barb threaded fittings.

http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread...ystem-Bleeder-Valve-OEM-replacement-necessary
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,287
Posts
218,334
Members
30,502
Latest member
heather8635
Top