Control Arms or Warped Rotors?

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BeemerNut

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I replaced my bushings without taking the control arm off (even left the wheel on...) Jacked up the truck, removed only the camber bolts (note position for refit so that your alignment isn’t wack) and control arm where it connects to frame. Drilled out the bushing rubber and then used a saws all with a metal blade to remove the bushing sleeve. Inserted new poly bushing and then cam bolt back in. Align the truck after. All four bushings took less than an hour to replace.

Did the thread starter first remove wheels and check wheel bearings and suspension for wear and suspension play? Measured rotors all around to check and elimate any swelled rotors issues? Checked rotors for runout or wobble with a dial indicator then sanded the rotor surfaces, reinstalled wheels then did another test ride to see if the shaking went away? If not then it's a suspension issue and not brakes.

I must give a big cheer, hats off and a full blown congrats to Scotty for the perfect and only answer read so far as well the perfect type of LR owner in my book doing DIY repairs.

Scotty, your not in the "Double Ownership Club" an Indy LR repair friend calls LR owners that will double their price of owning their LR's by the 10 year mark after having LR dealerships only do all their maintenance and repairs.
Soccer mom types I was told by a LR dealership service writer friend who mentioned working at LR allowing him a lifetime job he can retire from at LR.

Going on 22 years ownership a LR that has been in the dealership only once, to have the 7/100K warranty to me before it expired from the PO and have a factory new 4.6 short block for the 95 D1 5 spd. now at 143K. Having mechanical abilities someone once said said, "is something your born with and can not be learned, the blessed ones". The smart ones in my book unless wasting money is not a problem. Investing a little time spent also not a big deal. ......~~=o&o>......
 

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