Downshift catching... a bit harsh... Just a bit.

[jlach993]

My LR4 started driving that way only until after 75k miles? Then again i started noticing this behavior after doing some exhaust work on the truck. It’s more free flowing (exhaust) and the engine braking definitely got more pronounced when downshifting at slow speeds in 2nd gear or so after the exhaust mod. Maybe you have an exhaust leak lol?

Oh and i did the entire work on the tranny…new filter, pan, mechatronic, sleeves, and ZF fluid. The truck drove the same and the old fluid was in great condition after 88k miles. The plug also had a very small amount of grey creamy paste metal shavings lol.

My 2011 LR4 is new to me. I've noticed a slight downshift "bump" as I come to a stop. It is very slight "engine pressure? braking", but not "normal" to me. I'm new to Land Rovers and ZF trannys, so maybe it is normal. I see the RPM rise from 900-1250... It seems to happen the last two shifts before complete stop. More noticeable stopping on an incline.

As the car is new to me, I did a transmission drain and fill with ZF lifeguard 6 (did not replace the pan/filter). It seems to have made no difference at all (needed to do it regardless for peace of mind).

Thought I'd do a Transmission Adaptions Reset if folks thought it would help. Do you think it would help? Other troubleshooting ideas? (no faults; otherwise shifts great)

Anyone in the Denver area have the tool to do this? I have a icarsoft LR V2 and it seems to NOT have this capability.

Thanks in advance for the communities expertise.

Regards!

 

[PWD2]

Careful.

There have been reports of transmissions being killed by resetting the adaptions and the trans being unable to re-learn due to worn solenoids or leaking bridge seals.

In fairness, some have reporting resetting them without issue.

If I were you, I would drop the trans pan and replace the filter. While in there drop the mechatronic unit and replace the bridge seal and tubes, and honestly, If I already felt there was an issue, I would replace the solenoids as well.

Probably $550 or so total in parts for the pan/filter, fluid, bridge, tubes and solenoids if you do the work yourself. Other than being messy, it is not a technically intensive job.

Instructions for this can be found here. http://www.thectsc.com/tree-faq

The linked site also sells the solenoids and seals. Pan/filter/fluid can come from Atlantic British.

Only after doing all of the above, would I personally reset the adaptions.

Why not try adaptation and if it can't relearn due to things you mention do your suggested work then?