powershift
Full Access Member
It may behoove you to check for warpage of heads & block.
E-Pro rebuilder?
- Thread starter Cowinthefog
- Start date
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Rover Range
Full Access Member
The shoddy repairs from the previous owner, leaves a lot to be desired.
Cowinthefog
Active Member
I will probably check both, and yes, with such gross negligence or just being completely beyond their knowledge, much is left to be desired.
Cowinthefog
Active Member
Heads and block are nice and flat. Unfortunately, since rod bearings 1 and 2 spun, it seems to have given the crank nose a bit of wobble. Shop said about .004". I will get another crank and rods, plenty of reman'd and good used ones on ebay. Everything else is cleaning up nicely. I have opened every oil gallery including the oil pump, sump screen, cam screens and restrictors in the heads for cleaning and flushing. I will also disassemble and clean the cam phasers. Looks like not much debris made it past the oil filter. I cleaned up the cam journals with 1200 grit emery cloth. Should I go finer to really polish them back up? They're quite smooth now, just not polished like the lobes.
My wife gave me the caution tape. I warn everyone now.
My wife gave me the caution tape. I warn everyone now.
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Cowinthefog
Active Member
Machine shop called back and said the snout of the crank has a wobble of approximately .005" so I did not have it machined. I have purchased a used ebay crank which looked fine in pics, was only $375, which I will have checked if needed when it shows up.
Why can't I find the engine measurement spec sheet in my service manual? I went to the appropriate engine section, then to the general section indicated but only found cylinder head info and nothing more than references to the block and rotating assembly.
Still checking oil galleries and cleaning. So far all is clean. The oil filter seems to have done its job well, though it was very sparkly!
Why can't I find the engine measurement spec sheet in my service manual? I went to the appropriate engine section, then to the general section indicated but only found cylinder head info and nothing more than references to the block and rotating assembly.
Still checking oil galleries and cleaning. So far all is clean. The oil filter seems to have done its job well, though it was very sparkly!
Cowinthefog
Active Member
When determining journal limits, diameter and new bearings needed, how the heck do I read the chart in the service manual to get real world numbers? All the places I see that sell new bearings list them as standard, .25, .50 or .75 mm oversize. This is not how LR appears to have written the chart. I'd love some direction on how to determine proper bearing sizing. I know how to measure what it is, I just can't make the dots connect between reality and the FSM.
Cowinthefog
Active Member
Machine shop update-the crank snout was warped beyond correction, about .012 I think. I found a decent used one with con rods and NA pistons from ebay. They all looked pretty good and spin nice and smooth with the new bearings. Block and heads were not warped.
I believe all the damage stemmed from a sheared oil pump drive gear bolt but then, the gear was still on the shaft when I took it apart....I cleaned and flushed everything, a lot. The oil pump looked good other than the bolt and plugged pickup screen. Nothing appeared to get in the pump and the filter didn't look bad at all. Rod bearings 1, 2 and a little of 4 got wiped. Mains all look great. The block looks untouched other than normal grime.
Short block is together with windage tray and oil pump. Heads will go on when Fedex gets around to delivering my head bolts.
I believe all the damage stemmed from a sheared oil pump drive gear bolt but then, the gear was still on the shaft when I took it apart....I cleaned and flushed everything, a lot. The oil pump looked good other than the bolt and plugged pickup screen. Nothing appeared to get in the pump and the filter didn't look bad at all. Rod bearings 1, 2 and a little of 4 got wiped. Mains all look great. The block looks untouched other than normal grime.
Short block is together with windage tray and oil pump. Heads will go on when Fedex gets around to delivering my head bolts.
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Cowinthefog
Active Member
Engine is back in, all going as can be expected. I noticed I got the torque converter and flex plate 1/4 turn off from my removal mark. Do I need to take the bolts out and realign them? All 4 holes looked like they lined up properly and went in easily.
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Rover Range
Full Access Member
Torque converter should rotate freely.
Rotate to align the holes.
Rotate to align the holes.
Cowinthefog
Active Member
It did rotate freely before I put the bolts in. All four went in *perfectly* once the first was lined up, I just got my marks a 1 hole off. If they are balanced externally to match, that answers my question and I'll realign them appropriately. If not externally balanced and they just need to seat properly...it's good?
