E-Pro rebuilder?

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Cowinthefog

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Has anybody seen or heard of these guys? E-Pro buttons glued to each cylinder head for an LR4 I just purchased. Thanks,

Josh
 

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gsxr

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That is a heat tab. It is supposed to have the center melt if the engine overheats (over ~120°C).

Question is, who applied it, and why? Can you check the engine serial and see if it's original? Could be those were applied to a used engine sold by a salvage yard... seems unlikely the heads were rebuilt.

Similar heat tab shown here:

E-Pro tabs on eBay:

Engine Pro / E-Pro tabs:

Screenshot from their catalog:
1781356285250.png
 
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Cowinthefog

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Thanks! Didn't know that. I bought it as a non running project. Engine is out and fully disassembled. It does not appear to have been over heated. Heads were evenly tight with no mixing of oil and coolant. Plugs appear new, timing set it new, no wear on guide buttons! Right head has some clogged oil passages and 3 rod have spun bearings. I'll have the crank and rods checked. Block looks good at first visual check. I'll remove all plugs and clean all passages including squirters. Fun fact-it appears to be an SC short block with all other appropriate NA parts. I will replace the SC pistons with an NA set.

Question-main and rod cap bolts are hard to find-reuse or keep searching? Head and crank pulley bolts will definitely be new.

Josh
 

gsxr

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Bottom end bolts on most engines can generally be re-used if they measure in spec, but see what the JLR service manual says. Sounds like quite the project there!
 

Cowinthefog

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I was suspicious of something more when I spoke to the kid I bought it from, but since he thought it siezed from a skipped timing set and knowing that's not how that works and I could not rotate it, I went for it.

Turns out somebody replaced the timing set, apparently had the engine out or at least tried. Torque converter bolts were not tight enough, low pressure fuel line was routed wrong at the back of the passenger head, the purge line along the back of the motor was not screwed down, coolant lines at the rear passenger head were unsecured, several trans bolts were loose, 5 fuel injectors had an old o-ring jammed up into the fuel rail, the bolt holding the oil pump drive gear was sheared or broken (easy fix there) and the pass head plastic oil passage plug on top at the rear looks plugged.

Other than the crank and rods, it all is pretty easy stuff. The previous owner/attempted worker just had no clue what they were doing! It's a good thing I enjoy fixing them. I'll make it purr.
 

Cowinthefog

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Nope. Still totally repairable and SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than any reman engine. I will make sure all oil galleries are clean in the block, heads, cams and phazers as well as other common sense checking given the reckless abandon I've seen to this point. I consider myself squarely in the "I'll fix it until it doesn't make sense" camp, rather than replace it because everyone else has. Having said that, I'm not naive about heat and aluminum or the experience (invaluable) of the forums and the internet. I have seen a recurring theme for JLR products which seems to be if in question at all, just buy a new one even if it could have reasonably been machined (within limits) or repaired. There is definitely a very skittish tendency when it comes to owning and maintaining these awesome machines.

I am an A&P mechanic as well and love repairing my things. Everything has a limit. Sometimes the margins are wide, narrow or nonexistent. If it's dead, so be it, but if it can be repaired, I'm sure going to give it a go. The upshot to this is the completely intimate knowledge gained about whatever is fixed. It is the unknown about these vehicles that I think scares people. They are certainly complex, if not amazing things. I often think engineers are dumb and ignorant of the real world, but they also make really cool things. JLR products are no exception!

Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble. If you care, I'll post my progress.

Josh
 

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