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Help! Its Smoking!

Discussion in 'LR4' started by NigeltheRover, Sep 15, 2020.

  1. Jimmy Brooks

    Jimmy Brooks Full Access Member

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    Mine had to be replaced too because it was leaking.
     
  2. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    For you folks who have replaced the vacuum pump... did you drain the oil pan first? If no, did any oil leak out?

    The factory manual is vague and seems to imply the sump should be empty before removing the vacuum pump. But the pump sits high enough that it looks like it would be above the oil level.

    For the 5.0l V8, part numbers should be:

    LR048796 = vacuum pump, $400+ at the dealer, $275 at FCP for OEM Pierburg with lifetime warranty:
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-vacuum-pump-lr048796

    LR060479 = longer bolts for new pump, 2 required, may only be available at the dealer

    LR012685 = Vacuum pump seal ring to block, appears to come with OEM Pierburg pump. Not sure if you have to order it separately if you buy a new vac pump from the dealer.​

    For the record, I was cheap and opted to fix my original leaking pump by applying a bead of sealant around the seam in the middle, where the stamped steel cover screws to the aluminum body. The new pump design is better and should eliminate this leak point. I think.

    New design, this is what you want:
    [​IMG]

    Old design, don't buy one of these:
    [​IMG]
     
  3. DaytonaRS7

    DaytonaRS7 Full Access Member

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    i did not drain any oil. nothing noticeable came out. the area was pretty soaked with oil already due to the leak.

    the pump i purchased came with the gasket.

    if your anal about using 100% correct parts, get the OEM bolts. i purchased stainless hex head bolts from home depot. worked the same and i saved some ordering time and $ from the dealer.

    install notes.....i put the suspension in high mode and did this on the ground. i spent about 10 minutes trying to remove the quick connect hose while the pump was in place. it was a little frustrating to get at it at the correct angle. i gave up and unbolted the pump, and then twisted it go get a better angle on the quick connect to remove it. much faster this way.
     
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  4. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Oh yeah, the first time, I spent probably an hour trying to separate the quick connect plastic tube, thinking the red clip had to pry outward. Somehow, I managed not to break it, and eventually figured out you PRESS INWARD on the red thingy, to release the plastic pipe. DUH!

    everyone else--> :hahaha: :confused:<-- me
     
  5. TrinidadLR4

    TrinidadLR4 Full Access Member

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    How long does this thing last and what are the symptoms of this thing starting to go, other than sucking in oil/leaking oil? Does it make noise?
     
  6. DaytonaRS7

    DaytonaRS7 Full Access Member

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    mine still worked, only the gasket was leaking creating an external oil leak. I assume there was 138k miles and it was the original part.
     
  7. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Same here - mine still works fine (so far at 125k), but was leaking substantially at the seam of the outer steel cover. Prior to reading this thread, I didn't know they could fail and suck oil into the engine. Ugh. Had I known this, I probably would have just replaced the stupid thing.

    :musicus:
     
  8. Kosep

    Kosep New Member

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    where did you buy the gasket for the outer steel cover? Mines is leaking from there also.
     
  9. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    That gasket is not sold separately. And, I was afraid to remove the front cover lest I damage something, or springs fly out, etc. What I did was apply a bead of sealant all around the front cover seam. This is messy, ugly, and more difficult than it sounds. My first attempts only achieved ±80% success, greatly reducing the leak, but not stopping it. My second attempt (5kmi later, at the next oil change) appears to be ±99% effective. You must remove the pump and apply sealant on the workbench, after surgically cleaning the surfaces. And, it has to be done in 2 stages over 2 days; at least if the pump is vertical in a vise as I did it.

    If the front cover can be safely R&R'd, it would probably be easier and more effective to re-seal it that way instead, being careful not to get any sealant on internal components.

    Wish I had a defective pump to take apart and see what other options there are to re-seal. If the ~$300 is in your budget, I'd replace the blasted thing with the new style.
     
  10. Kosep

    Kosep New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Yups, I will probably just replace the whole pump
     

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