HID installed

[baobay]

I'm going to order them today -

But I have a question... the CVs are 55w (as well as other H11 bulbs), but David mentioned he got the HIDs in 35w... should I get them in 35w or 55w? Also, I'm going to get 5000K instead of 6000K, but also noticed a few bonus items and not sure if I need them or not.

What is the usual order in total?

35w (or 55w)
Slim Balast

Do you need any of this other stuff? I'm assuming no for sure on the Error Eliminator... but not sure about the other two.

HID Harness Dual in, Dual Out $15.00
Error Eliminator Type 3 $15.00
Adaptor cables

No need for harness and no need for code eliminator. Just ballast and bulbs and youre good to go. 55 W is too bright.

 

[Finlayforprez]

Hi David,

So guess what!

One of my CVs just blew. IMO, pretty short life span. And would likely buy two more bulbs and that's around 40 bucks or so.

So... should I just go for the HIDs?

Wow! That was a very short bulb life! Yes, you should definitely go with the HID upgrade. Definitely!!!

 

[Finlayforprez]

I'm going to order them today -

But I have a question... the CVs are 55w (as well as other H11 bulbs), but David mentioned he got the HIDs in 35w... should I get them in 35w or 55w? Also, I'm going to get 5000K instead of 6000K, but also noticed a few bonus items and not sure if I need them or not.

What is the usual order in total?

35w (or 55w)
Slim Balast

Do you need any of this other stuff? I'm assuming no for sure on the Error Eliminator... but not sure about the other two.

HID Harness Dual in, Dual Out $15.00
Error Eliminator Type 3 $15.00
Adaptor cables

Hey Count,

You only need to get the slim ballast 35W, 6000k. You don't need anything else, no resistor, etc. The kit does take about a week and a half to arrive. You will see where you order the H11. I can't imagine going any higher than 35w, 6000k as I think it will be too bright. This setup looks great and has amazing output.

Drop me a line if you have any questions. Once you get the kit, I'll walk you through the set-up. Are you going to get extra light caps?

Keep me posted!

-David

 

[Finlayforprez]

I'm going to order them today -

But I have a question... the CVs are 55w (as well as other H11 bulbs), but David mentioned he got the HIDs in 35w... should I get them in 35w or 55w? Also, I'm going to get 5000K instead of 6000K, but also noticed a few bonus items and not sure if I need them or not.

What is the usual order in total?

35w (or 55w)
Slim Balast

Do you need any of this other stuff? I'm assuming no for sure on the Error Eliminator... but not sure about the other two.

HID Harness Dual in, Dual Out $15.00
Error Eliminator Type 3 $15.00
Adaptor cables

Hey Count,

Did you order the HID kit? Keep me posted and I will send you a detailed message with some installation tips and tools. Also, let me know if you need the part numbers for extra light caps (in case you are going to order them from BMC). Best of luck!

-David

 

[goblue95]

My LR4 is going in tomorrow to have some accessories installed, and I was thinking of having the dealer program the daytime running lights (to stay on). I've already installed the Philips CVs, but still considering the HID upgrade several on this board have done successfully. Question is - can the DRLs be programmed to just have the LEDs, or will it also require the low beams to be on permanently? And if the low beams will have to be on permanently, any thoughts on having HID DRLs? I could forego the DRLs, of course, but I feel like it is a good idea to have, and also the only way to make permanent (automated) use of the signature LEDs.

 

[ycharlie]

My LR4 is going in tomorrow to have some accessories installed, and I was thinking of having the dealer program the daytime running lights (to stay on). I've already installed the Philips CVs, but still considering the HID upgrade several on this board have done successfully. Question is - can the DRLs be programmed to just have the LEDs, or will it also require the low beams to be on permanently? And if the low beams will have to be on permanently, any thoughts on having HID DRLs? I could forego the DRLs, of course, but I feel like it is a good idea to have, and also the only way to make permanent (automated) use of the signature LEDs.

DRLs are usually not full power and therefore appearing a bit dimmed. this will not work for hids as it wont carry enough current to fire up the ballasts. i had to disable drls on my passat in order to have the hids work properly.

 

[Finlayforprez]

My LR4 is going in tomorrow to have some accessories installed, and I was thinking of having the dealer program the daytime running lights (to stay on). I've already installed the Philips CVs, but still considering the HID upgrade several on this board have done successfully. Question is - can the DRLs be programmed to just have the LEDs, or will it also require the low beams to be on permanently? And if the low beams will have to be on permanently, any thoughts on having HID DRLs? I could forego the DRLs, of course, but I feel like it is a good idea to have, and also the only way to make permanent (automated) use of the signature LEDs.

I concur with ycharlie, as the HIDs will not work on decreased power. With that said, I thought the DRLs on the LR4 would not turn on the actual low beam headlights, but rather only the LED signature lights. I know sometimes I turn my lights on/off knob one click to the right (when it's in off position) to have ONLY the LEDs and yellow side markers on during the day as DRLs. It's not programmed from the dealership, but I am wondering if you can have them set that mode?

This is definitely something to ask the dealership and see if they can program DRLs in the mode I described above. Best of luck!

Keep us posted!

 

[baobay]

My LR4 is going in tomorrow to have some accessories installed, and I was thinking of having the dealer program the daytime running lights (to stay on). I've already installed the Philips CVs, but still considering the HID upgrade several on this board have done successfully. Question is - can the DRLs be programmed to just have the LEDs, or will it also require the low beams to be on permanently? And if the low beams will have to be on permanently, any thoughts on having HID DRLs? I could forego the DRLs, of course, but I feel like it is a good idea to have, and also the only way to make permanent (automated) use of the signature LEDs.

DRLs are the low beams at FULL power. There is no way to turn on the LEDs as DRLs. When you have the DRLs activated, the LEDs along with the low beams (full power) will come on. I had my DRLs activated and then Deactivated a few months later since I thought it was a waste of my bulbs ESP the HIDs.

 

[Finlayforprez]

DRLs are the low beams at FULL power. There is no way to turn on the LEDs as DRLs. When you have the DRLs activated, the LEDs along with the low beams (full power) will come on. I had my DRLs activated and then Deactivated a few months later since I thought it was a waste of my bulbs ESP the HIDs.

Hi baobay,

Thanks for the information! I had wondered if they could program the DRLs with only the LED accent lights, but I guess not. If I want my DRLs to be only the LED accent lights, then I just manually turn the light knob to one past the off position. It lights up only the LED accent lights and two yellow side lights. I sort of like turning my lights on and off manually, so I seldom leave them on automatic. I will just do my manual DRL mode for now. ;-)

-David

 

[goblue95]

Thanks for the input. Since the DRLs required the low beams to be on full time, I decided to forego the change. Instead, I ordered the HID kit from DDM and will go with that - still not overly thrilled with the visibility with the CVs - in part due to the sharp and somewhat low cutoff on the driver's side headlight (maybe it's designed that way in case the HID option is installed?) - it seems to reduce visibility to the left. Hoping the HIDs can fill that gap a bit.