Johnson loft and spacers

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After balancing all wheels, mounted rods and spacers.
Johnson rods are great. Spacers give vehicle the right stance. now the ugly..
Terraferma Spacers fit concentric to the wheel, tight and no slack. Torqued to 100ft\lb and after 70miles all where still there.
The wheels do not fit perfectly over the spacers. The hub seems just a little smaller than wheel center.
Already had to reseat wheels to prevent wobbling at 60-70.
Getting the right is a PITA...
Worse of all it’s hard to tell which may be off...
Can’t believe a 300$ set of spacers didn’t have this sorted out.
 

BeemerNut

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After balancing all wheels, mounted rods and spacers.
Johnson rods are great. Spacers give vehicle the right stance. now the ugly..
Terraferma Spacers fit concentric to the wheel, tight and no slack. Torqued to 100ft\lb and after 70miles all where still there.
The wheels do not fit perfectly over the spacers. The hub seems just a little smaller than wheel center.
Already had to reseat wheels to prevent wobbling at 60-70.
Getting the right is a PITA...
Worse of all it’s hard to tell which may be off...
Can’t believe a 300$ set of spacers didn’t have this sorted out.

Sorry late to dinner as I randomly bottom feed only on the Disco One fourms.

No clue about your "303" spacers. The picture alone has hope to make them work vs TF 301 I purchased for the 95 D1, the spacers were a POS!

Long love letter below, I needed to explain a lot, caution with solutions you shouldn't of had to pay for for what you, no we got as I had a mess also.

Welcome to the world of aftermarket expensive parts that can (did) cause out of balance shaking issues you have found. Frustration yes your not the first posting here or on other LR forums.

First off i'd bet the ranch you went from factory designed having vehicle weight transfered from hub concentric lip directly to the rim concentric contact area also a clean slide fit maintaining concentric alignment from factory design not having eccentric rims with shaking issues of spacers.

Your installed spacers, i'd again bet the ranch again those spacers have an ID bore much larger than the vehicle hub concentric lip now placing the vehicle weight, stress and shear to be applied to the wheel studs vs the hub concentric design taking the load stress only.

On a brighter note your cone lug nuts will center the spacers to your hubs even when there is zero contact between the spacer ID and vehicle hub concentric lip OD to transfer the vehicle weight.

Your spacers have a solid 360 degree of concentric lip vs five short sections that bridged across the larger diameter clearance cut out sections on the rims on my 95 D1 hence totally useless sections, equivilent to spacers without a concentric lip, flat spacer to rim. Works ok with cone nuts rim to spacer studs just added vehicle weight stress now on the studs. Bad design. There is a reason why these spacers "Are For Off Road Only" you read their warning? Bounce them by anyone working for DOT, better not do that.
Paint then satin black to match the hubs, out of plain sight.

Have you dial caliper measured your spacer concentrc lip OD to rim contact area ID to how much clearance there is between them?
I bet it's 0.080" to 0.100" diameter difference which would mean centering the rim onto the spacers is only by the contact with the parallel body shanks of the lug nuts with their clearance to the rim bores as they float around by gravity before tightening then down.
Nothing positive keeping the rim concentric when installed everytime, forget balanced.
That alone is your shaking or vibration problem that I measured out as 1.973 ounce out of balance wheels with my "Unlicky-Eight Ball" spacer purchase.

Your case if it were my vehicle I would note the clearance difference and by this first clean the rim concentric contact areas, lightly sanded to smooth only removing dirt, crap or corrosion, possibly paint if any left in the bores for solid aluminum contact.
Establish a standard diameter of all the rim ID's. Next mount and true (dial indicate) each spacer in the lathe then take a light cut just to get a clean machined surface on each lip removing paint or annodized finishes then note diameter of all spacers. Best to make them all the same OD. Thickness of sleeve to be thicker and stronger may require lathing the lip a little smaller in diameter.

Measure the difference of spacer lip to rim contact area then machine aluminum rings slightly larger than the rim contact area OD plus making them 0.004" to 0.005" interference fit (undersize) to the spacer lip. Warm up to 150 degrees and with a light press fit onto the spacer lip with added Loctite. At 150*F no harm with the Loctite but expanded the sleeve.
Next machine the sleeves down allowing a 0.005" clearance to the rim contact area.

Shaking and vibration issues will be GONE!
Bent wobbing rims do not count unless the contact to hub area has been milled down until full contact at the cutter head has been established. Yup rescued several expensive aftermarket BMW rims by removing 0.006" to worse of 0.018" (BFD!) with wobbling but round beads no frontal rim impacts just axial wobble issues caused by idiots.

Only thing I dislike is the vehicle weight now on a shear by gravity plus corning forces applied to those "undersized studs" wheel studs of the 120 mm bolt circle vs the larger diameter wheel studs with a 165 mm bolt circle as on my 95 D1.

I had no choice correcting the spacer lips as in you case and did clean and lightly sandpaper each stud hole in the rims and lug nut shanks. Ended up with rolling stainless sleeves 3/4" wide x 0.014" thickness that fit into each stud hole with a light thumb press fit on the lug nuts centering the rims before tightening the lug nuts. Should the lug nuts be finger tight, lug nut shanks having a snug fit to the rim bores still maintaining a concentric rim to hub.

I use Dow Corning Silicone grease lightly applied layer to the rim lug nut bores, lug nut parallel body shanks and the stainless sleeves. Will add same grease normal to hub centric to rim contact vehicles plus steel to aluminun preventing rust and corrosion, easy to remove rims later when rotating tyres. No submarine duty but still protected from rims seized to hubs by way of disimular metal corrosion issues just add water. My D1 is street only.

Talking a heavy alloy LR rim with a 255/65-16 Michelin, recall 56 or 58 lbs weight and being in an eccentric one way by 0.014", rotate wheel 180 degrees then loosen lugs it will fall down 0.028" without those sleeves. That amounted to a 1.973 oz. out of balance shaking issue. I was ****** first road test ending up and went into the 120+ zone to catch another shake zone. Not a stock 4.6 LOL.

After a tyre shop spin balance, made a 3/8" steel disc to their machine arbor and rim centric, they spin like a top. Keep disc below 90*F as it will expand and not fit into the rims.

Remounted wheel on the spare LR hub "zero balanced" with POS spacer without sleeves was how I measured 1.973 oz. out of balance issues with these spacers.
Take a short tin valve cap enough to make a wheel roll out of balance 180 degrees on a balancer made for motorcycle wheels plus have a powered up LR hub and wheel assembly on a stand to spin up.
Three phase motor with VFD drive from app 5 mph to 90+ mph making damn sure wheels coast past the second and first vibraton zones of imbalance unloaded up off the ground. Loaded down hides imbalance issues. No radial and axial issues, turbine smooth with spacers that repeat remounting wheels in a different position on the spacers on balancer.


P.S., at less than two hours before an Ebay sale purchase that popped up with TERRAFIRMA TF-301 spacers, "Unhappy Eight" would not honor me their Ebay sale price discount.
That was a warning I overlooked.

I have an opinion of them besides them selling a bad product they must know selling lots of them with you and others finding out $300 later and ligher in the wallet. Sorry Boss.

At 30 mm each spacer doesn't sound like much, it did improve my corning ability. Stiffer springs plus 190 & 230% stiffer anti-roll bars, and shocks, poly bushings 100%, I like to go around mountain twisties at speed.
I made extensions with special nuts welded onto spacers on the Disco having 30 and 38 MM spacers with mounted wheels. Axles on stands for compressed suspension, wheels 1/2" off the ground, steering clearances.
The 38 mm looked stupid, would sling dirt and road rocks on the body plus looked like a "Mexican Special" (sorry not PC these days just an example without 13" Pinto tyres with camber out bt 20 degrees) hence the 30 mm spacer purchase.

I'm a DIY person, have a lathe, Bridgport mill and some machine shop background, aviation mechanic and electrician. Hell it takes this backgrond to keep a LR alive and running without dealerships 22 years and one month and counting. OB1 by choice for a reason....~~=o&o>...
 
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BeemerNut

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Mike, note the short lip sections below that span across the larger diameter open clearance casting of the Disco 1 rims not contacting the concentric areas of the rim at all hence useless like flat spacers.
You have the option having a solid lip that can be sleeved vs the rubbish I had to correct to make work......~~=o&o>.......
https://images.bonanzastatic.com/afu/images/195b/5d64/66eb_9958060505/s-l1600.gif
 
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After a week driving, I cleaned everything, remounted by slowly torquing bolts while turning wheels, took 30 min, but very slight vibration at over 80.
 

BeemerNut

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After a week driving, I cleaned everything, remounted by slowly torquing bolts while turning wheels, took 30 min, but very slight vibration at over 80.

What is the diameter of the spacer lip OD and the rim concentric contact area ID?
The clearance amount if proper should be just enough to mount the rim and not a sloppy fit or one with a lot of clearance.
You shouldhave zero vibration issues at any speeds as well able to repeat having perfect balance removing and remounting wheels be it back on the same hubs or by rotating wheels.
Not able to repeat a perfect balance everytime tells me there is big gap between the spacer lip and contact with the rim not maintaing concentric alignment. Total garbage unless this is "good enough" people's standards?
Sorry not picking on you its your $300 money spent with spacers causing out of balance issues that others have complained about.

Translating metric to standard measurement specs during manufacture in some in the bush foreign country making these spacers or what?
Made in China comes to mind like most automotive replacement parts these days that do not fit properly.

Back in 1-2000 ordered from the LR dealership a replacement manually extending radio antenna for the 95 D1, yup in a plastic bag with correct LR decals and part numbers.
Made in India with the rubber mounting gasket to fender OD too small in diameter allowing the antenna to fall down the antenna hole in the fender. "Original direct replacement part" by LR.
What a POS requiring dry ice freezing rubber stock then wuickly machining out a larger diameter stepped mounting (sealing) washer like original washer that was breaking apart (Limey rubber) like leaking and failing coolant and PS hoses. Another example of aftermarket rubbish. ......~~=o&o>.....
 
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What is the diameter of the spacer lip OD and the rim concentric contact area ID?
The clearance amount if proper should be just enough to mount the rim and not a sloppy fit or one with a lot of clearance.
You shouldhave zero vibration issues at any speeds as well able to repeat having perfect balance removing and remounting wheels be it back on the same hubs or by rotating wheels.
Not able to repeat a perfect balance everytime tells me there is big gap between the spacer lip and contact with the rim not maintaing concentric alignment. Total garbage unless this is "good enough" people's standards?
Sorry not picking on you its your $300 money spent with spacers causing out of balance issues that others have complained about.

Translating metric to standard measurement specs during manufacture in some in the bush foreign country making these spacers or what?
Made in China comes to mind like most automotive replacement parts these days that do not fit properly.
.....

sorry I didn’t measure the lip, from what I remember about 10 mm.
When I bought states it was forged aluminum. Honestly they “feel” the same as the ones I had on 2 Porsche 911’s, and I put those trough the ringer on tracks. Again, they “feel” good quality.
I’ll follow the advise and re-balance tires and swap rear to front.
 

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