LR4 and the dreaded timing chain issue

[tfinn42]

I’ve wanted a Land Rover for years, but they are few and far between where I am in Maine. I currently found an LR4 with 165k on it for sale for 8k. I started it up and didn’t hear any chain slap, but there are no records if the chain was replaced with the upgraded tensioners. I’ve read a lot about these vehicles and know it’s quite a risk. Curious what everyone thinks. Will 3k mile oil changes preserve it or is failure inevitable? Appreciate any incite.

 

[MarcusTriton]

Your choice regarding the year, OD miles and maintenance records of the right LR4 to purchase is the most crucial.
Even though I own a super nice late 2012 LR4 with no major issues, if I had to do it all over again, with what I know now, I'd buy a 2013 LR4 Lux in the same color I have now. 3k mile oil changes is what I'd prescribe using 5w-40 NASCAR Mobil. Whatever you purchase, start from fresh and change all the fluids and use the fuel additive Techron but no more than 3x a year and you'll be set.
All the best to you on your venture...

 

[tfinn42]

Thanks for the insight. I’ll keep that in mind if I decide to look further into it.

 

[GunsAndRovers]

I've found that chain slop is more evident on warm start-ups--not cold. Metal shrinks when cooled (chains will shrink eliminating slack if it is minimal). To be safe, I'd take it for a test drive (long enough to reach op temp), turn it off, wait 5-10 minutes, then turn it back on and listen for noise. Future, frequent oil changes do help, but with 165K miles, I'd be more concerned at how frequently past oil changes were done. I'd also be more concerned about a rusted out frame since you're in Maine (probably why there aren't many available as you said). Timing chain slop can be repaired--unlike a rusted out frame. That being said, when chains/tensioners are in really bad shape, there will be no doubt--the engine will sound like a bucket of bolts being shaken.

 

[LR4 2011]

The myth is that oil changes will prevent/prolong engine service. The actual truth is you have steel wearing on aluminum and eventually the steel digs into aluminum and creates a bored hole. The chains is now loose and will need to be replaced. This is a Engineering design flaw. No getting around it, replace parts and problem goes away.

 

[tfinn42]

Thanks for all the advice. I think Illkeep looking for an LR3. Id really love a Disco 2 also, but my oldest uses a wheelchair and the 3 and 4 seem to have more trunk space. I also don’t think a Series would be very comfortable for him either.
I was really hoping that if a LR4 had over 150k miles on it you could just assume the chain had been replaced, but I guess they can go at anytime. I’ll just keep looking for the perfect deal on FB Marketplace

 

[San Moritz LR4]

Hi. Here’s my two cents. I have a 2012 LR4 with 210,000 miles on it. The dreaded fault code P003E – 00 intake cam profile (timing chain) just popped up.
I’ve been very diligent on all maintenance over the years. $6000+ to have the timing chains replaced.

I knew this day would come. Oil changes might delay it, but it’s an inevitability. The timing chain will fail at some point.

Add on top of that, my A/C evaporator core and suddenly I’m looking at a $9000 repair job. So if that scares you and it should, and you are not prepared to pay that price, don’t buy one. But, if you are prepared and except that expense, go for it.

My rig has a lot of customization to it and fortunately that expense was anticipated along time ago. I’ll likely buy a post 2012 LR4 with low mileage vs doing the repairs. I hope that helps.