LR4 No-Start Issue - Detailed post with Video & Faults - Help!

[ocdiscovery]

Hey Guys, I'm having some issues with our LR4. The problem first appeared on the occasional cold morning, slowly progressing to pretty much every start. I've taken this to the local LR specialist, without any luck. If anyone has ever experienced this, please help!

Vehicle Info:
Year: 2014
Model: LR4
Engine: SCV6
Miles: 100k

Vehicle Issue:
- Requires multiple start attempts to start
- During start attempts, makes shutdown noise
- During start attempts, drive selector raises and lowers
- Once started, all CEL displayed
- Once started, vehicle in limp mode
- Once started, can be turned off and immediately started without issue (no limp mode)

Work to resolve issue:
New KVM Module
New Keyfob
New Battery

Video of issue:

Recorded Fault Archive:
C0072-4B
U0100-00
U0421-68
B102B-87
B1B33-87
C111A-15
C111B-15
B1097-13
B1247-15
B1248-15
U201B-54
B1A75-1C
B1D21-13
U0164-00
U0424-68
U101A-86
B1D55-13
U0001-87
U0402-00
U0401-68
U3000-49
U0100-63
P065C-01
B1479-73
U0184-00
U0102-00
U0126-00
U0138-00
U0151-00
U0164-00
U0184-00

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as our local LR specialists are at a complete loss. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[DaytonaRS7]

a lot of random codes, but some that consistently relate to CAN bus wiring. have you inspected the ECU and harness plug?

Im pretty sure the ECU is located under/behind the glove box.
there is also a large fuse block there.

incidentally, this is also a location that can have significant water damage if a leaking cowl allows water into the cabin air filter, and drips on the ecu/fuse block.

EDIT: this is also where sunroof drain lines run, if cracked, will leak water onto the same components.

If you have no signs of water intrusion, then this most likely isnt your issue. but with a fault list that long and random, id be suprised if this isnt a one-stop-shop kind of issue.

 

[cperez]

Brake switch?

Not as a solution for all of the faults but specific to the ignition problem and possibly related to other gremlins.

 

[djkaosone]

Is stepping on the brake pedal stiff when it doesn't start? Do you have to step down hard to get it to start?

 

[ocdiscovery]

a lot of random codes, but some that consistently relate to CAN bus wiring. have you inspected the ECU and harness plug?

Im pretty sure the ECU is located under/behind the glove box.
there is also a large fuse block there.

incidentally, this is also a location that can have significant water damage if a leaking cowl allows water into the cabin air filter, and drips on the ecu/fuse block.

EDIT: this is also where sunroof drain lines run, if cracked, will leak water onto the same components.

If you have no signs of water intrusion, then this most likely isnt your issue. but with a fault list that long and random, id be suprised if this isnt a one-stop-shop kind of issue.

Hey Daytona, thanks for the reply! I did inspect the ECU and harness, it is clean and free from damage, water or otherwise. Not totally ruling it out though, as it was replaced at some point, by the PO.

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey DJ, thanks for the reply! The pedal is somewhat stiff, after pressing down on it multiple times, attempting to start the LR. I did try completely depressing the pedal the night before, while shutting it off. So it would have maximum play in the morning, when I tried to restart it (No luck). Brake pedal pressure doesn't seem to effect this issue

Is stepping on the brake pedal stiff when it doesn't start? Do you have to step down hard to get it to start?

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey Perez, thanks for the reply! That's a good call. I have verified brake lights are fully functional, when braking. I've had that part fail on other Discos, but usually the lights are not functional when it goes. It does look like this might not be the case for the LR4. I'll get the part ordered anyway.

Brake switch?

Not as a solution for all of the faults but specific to the ignition problem and possibly related to other gremlins.

Brake switch?

Not as a solution for all of the faults but specific to the ignition problem and possibly related to other gremlins.

 

[djkaosone]

Hey DJ, thanks for the reply! The pedal is somewhat stiff, after pressing down on it multiple times, attempting to start the LR. I did try completely depressing the pedal the night before, while shutting it off. So it would have maximum play in the morning, when I tried to restart it (No luck). Brake pedal pressure doesn't seem to effect this issue

I had this exact issue, where it doesn't start after pressing the brake pedal, start button, clicks once, all the dash lights appears, infotainment screen goes blank, and the brake pedal goes stiff.

The trick to start it was to step down on the brake pedal as hard as you can, until you feel like it'll hit the firewall, and press start. Threw out my back 2x doing this.

The actual fix was I was 1/2 a quart low on transmission fluid and I needed to recalibrate the (auto) clutch engagement. I think it was to recalibrate the transfer case. The tricky part was to run the calibration process and halfway through it requires to start the truck, that's where you need to step down as hard as possible. If it doesn't start on that first try, you need to start the calibration all over again.

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey DJ, thanks for following up! I just gave it another shot, but no dice. I pressed the brake pedal down to the point I thought it may break. I'm 6.4' 250lbs, I put some serious pressure on it.

I had this exact issue, where it doesn't start after pressing the brake pedal, start button, clicks once, all the dash lights appears, infotainment screen goes blank, and the brake pedal goes stiff.

The trick to start it was to step down on the brake pedal as hard as you can, until you feel like it'll hit the firewall, and press start. Threw out my back 2x doing this.

The actual fix was I was 1/2 a quart low on transmission fluid and I needed to recalibrate the (auto) clutch engagement. I think it was to recalibrate the transfer case. The tricky part was to run the calibration process and halfway through it requires to start the truck, that's where you need to step down as hard as possible. If it doesn't start on that first try, you need to start the calibration all over again.

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey DJ, quick follow up. Once you got it running, after pushing the pedal to the firewall, were you able to turn it off and immediately start it without issue, or the additional brake pedal pressure? Thanks again for the follow up.

I had this exact issue, where it doesn't start after pressing the brake pedal, start button, clicks once, all the dash lights appears, infotainment screen goes blank, and the brake pedal goes stiff.

The trick to start it was to step down on the brake pedal as hard as you can, until you feel like it'll hit the firewall, and press start. Threw out my back 2x doing this.

The actual fix was I was 1/2 a quart low on transmission fluid and I needed to recalibrate the (auto) clutch engagement. I think it was to recalibrate the transfer case. The tricky part was to run the calibration process and halfway through it requires to start the truck, that's where you need to step down as hard as possible. If it doesn't start on that first try, you need to start the calibration all over again.