LR4 No-Start Issue - Detailed post with Video & Faults - Help!

[jlach993]

As a general matter, write the codes down, then clear them before trying to restart. I believe some codes can prevent certain circuits from operating until they are cleared.

Further to Jlach’s post, I think there is a key not found type code in that list. Couple of other codes look interesting here:

P065C-01 is related to the alternator - mechanical failure. Frequent trouble spot on these trucks. Manual says to check the belt tension, but I’m guessing any problem with the alternator might through this code.

B1479-73 - Power Supply Distribution Box - Actuator stuck closed. I believe this is also called the dual battery junction box, and connects the Eco Start/stop battery to the system. Manual says to check the power supply distribution box circuit for short to ground. Then clear all codes, lock the vehicle, wait two minutes, and restart.

Not sure if any of this helps.

Yes i totally agree with trying to clear the ECU and BCM codes first. Remember i had that trunk actuator issue that you were helping me with jlglr4? The actuator wouldn't work until the codes were clear.

 

[jlach993]

Hey, thanks for the info! That's really interesting, as the very first time this issue happened, was the following day after installing our new license plates. My wife mentioned this initially, and I kind of rolled my eyes and shrugged it off. There was some corrosion on the bolts, ultimately I had to really jockey that rear plate free. In doing so, I wonder if I caused something else to loosen, causing a rear hatch leak. I'll take that rear panel off, inspect, and follow up shortly. On a side note: While I do hope you're right here, I'm not looking forward to a much deserved "I told you so"...

lol i hope thats not your issue, but i don't think that changing out plates would introduce water into the truck. My leak was from the roof. It had nothing to do with the rear hatch...but do some investigating on the entire truck. Try to look for areas where you think water could be enterting into the truck. HOWEVER do all of that AFTER you clear the codes and attempt to start it. Go that route first as jlglr4 mentioned....

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey, thanks for the detailed info! I believe P065C-01 may have been a pre-existing code. About a year ago the serpentine belt broke, causing the vehicle to stall. I replaced the belt on-the-go, and didn't reset the fault codes. Vehicle ran fine for several months after this repair.

I'll go ahead and check the power supply distribution box circuit, for any issues.

As a general matter, write the codes down, then clear them before trying to restart. I believe some codes can prevent certain circuits from operating until they are cleared.

Further to Jlach’s post, I think there is a key not found type code in that list. Couple of other codes look interesting here:

P065C-01 is related to the alternator - mechanical failure. Frequent trouble spot on these trucks. Manual says to check the belt tension, but I’m guessing any problem with the alternator might through this code.

B1479-73 - Power Supply Distribution Box - Actuator stuck closed. I believe this is also called the dual battery junction box, and connects the Eco Start/stop battery to the system. Manual says to check the power supply distribution box circuit for short to ground. Then clear all codes, lock the vehicle, wait two minutes, and restart.

Not sure if any of this helps.

 

[Michael Gain]

For the PSDB code, check the smaller, two-wire connector. That connector is how power from your battery is transferred to the starter.

Also, pull the fusible link access cover (two phillips screws) and check the fusible links and 5A fuse.

Issues with this box will definitely cause a no-start issue

 

[ocdiscovery]

Hey Michael, thanks for the info! Is this box located in the rear of the vehicle? Sorry, don't recognize this module.

For the PSDB code, check the smaller, two-wire connector. That connector is how power from your battery is transferred to the starter.

Also, pull the fusible link access cover (two phillips screws) and check the fusible links and 5A fuse.

View attachment 12733

Issues with this box will definitely cause a no-start issue

 

[Michael Gain]

Not a problem. It's located in the driver side battery box under the hood.

 

[ocdiscovery]

Both connections look clean and clear of corrosion. I'll access the fusible panel, once it stops raining.

Not a problem. It's located in the driver side battery box under the hood.

 

[jlglr4]

If the fuse looks okay, you could check the box terminals for a short to ground, then clear your codes and do the lock-door procedure. See if it starts. At the very least, you might refresh the codes and get some indication of what’s going on.

 

[DaytonaRS7]

I 2nd clearing the codes ( after taking a screenshot).
Stored codes will prevent some systems from working.

 

[Michael Gain]

Both connections look clean and clear of corrosion. I'll access the fusible panel, once it stops raining.

Agreed the terminals look good. See the attached wiring diagram.

Those two wires from the connector go to the wires labeled D and E on the attached.

You could also check the starter relays after clearing the codes