Manual & Oil Change

[Frankie Smyles]

I have a "new to me" 2011 LR4. Seemed to be in great condition - no Codes - other than the intermittent satellite reception and intermittent stereo FM signal. Bought it last year with 72K miles. It now has 77K miles. I'm thinking it's about time for an oil change. Dealer told me the oil was changed when I bought it. Figured I would do it at 5K as a precaution.

Then the Service Engine notice comes on when I start the car. Weird. I do a Oil Level check through the dashboard and oil is low. I top it off with 1/2L and Oil Level is at mid-range. Could have added 1L but figured I would change the oil over the weekend.

I crawl under the car and can't remove 2 of the bolts holding the protective plate for the oil drain in place. I was able to get the smaller screws off which hold the smaller first/ front plate.

A. How do I remove the frozen bolts? I tried Liquid Wrench - no luck. Tried using an impact driver, a large crescent wrench and a larger monkey wrench. Nope. If I cut them, I'll still need to remove them from the thread socket so I can replace the bolts.

B. I know the oil can be changed using a siphon but I'll still need to remove the bolts to address the oil leak. Seems this is how the oil had been changed in the past. Looks like the protective plate had been assaulted. If I can find a used unbent replacement plate in a junk yard, I'll get it.

C. Oil leak seems to be coming from above the smaller front protective plate on the vertical wall of the engine, behind the belt assembly. Any ideas?

Oh, and where can I download/ get a 2011 LR4 Service and Repair manual that has links within it, to go to related parts of the manual? All I am finding are PDFs.

Frankie

 

[DirtyHal]

Do you have any pictures you can upload of the bolts in question? Regarding the leak could it be the vacuum pump? https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/help-its-smoking.42151/page-2

 

[jlglr4]

On the bolts, the tools you mentioned probably aren’t giving you much torque. Get a big breaker bar with a six point socket, or an impact wrench with a six point impact socket (not an impact driver - big difference in torque). If that doesn’t do it, I’d try heating the bolts with a torch to break them loose before resorting to cutting them off.

On the oil leak, valve cover or the oil filter housing both come to mind as points that can leak down the front behind the belts.

 

[PaulLR3]

Keep in mind that the "Service Required" message on a 2011 was designed so that it can only be reset by the dealer. My service required message has been coming on every day for the last 7 years and 126,000 miles. And I change the oil every 5K miles.

 

[gsxr]

The "Service Required" reminder can be reset with the IID GAP tool, if you don't have it yet, you'll need it if you plan on DIY repairs. Otherwise you'll have the reminder appearing at every start.

Oil leak you describe sounds very much like the vacuum pump. BT, DT. You can attempt to re-seal it on tight budget, otherwise replace with OEM Pierburg (new pump requires new/longer bolts).

The only service manual is a ginormous (0.25 GB!) PDF file. If you want the parts catalog, you need MicroCat, which is an application run on your computer, but it's really terrible to use... steep learning curve. Handy for DIY stuff if you don't want to pester the dealer, and/or plan to buy parts from online discount Rover dealers.

Speaking of politics and religion, do some homework on engine oil and decide what you plan to use. Whatever it is, changing at 5k is a good idea unless you rack up a ton of freeway miles. If 5k over the past year is typical, change at 5k.

 

[JKJK]

I had similar problems on LR3 and LR4. Those skid plate bolts are open to the elements and get rusted quickly. I ended up cutting them with a cut-off wheel. Actually cut a portion of the head off so I could clamp on with a vice grip. I installed new bolts and globbed on a bunch of anti-seize.