Mechanical issues
- Thread starter disco2ny
- Start date
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audioclay
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The rims should be no problem. Watch your tire size, that's all. I had the same oil problem with my 03 disco and switched to castrol have synthetic and its been fine.
Chongo
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Oil consumption
Anyone know if its normal for an '04 disco II w/28000 mile to burn 1/2 qt of oil between changes?
If it is leaking externally, this is an easier fix However, if it is internal and burning the oil, It gets expensive.
External engine design issues:
# 1 Crankcase ventilation. Or positive crankcase ventilation { pcv } system. First of all there are no check valves in this system. Should the engine backfire, it will pressurize the crankcase, but it will be so slight due to the small hole in the valve cover hose connection, that I did nothing here.
2nd The pcv system is all pretty much at the same level as the pressure differential source…. Aka…vaccum, and all land rovers I’ve seen have an oily residue in the hoses, leading to the intake. Oil going down the intake is not a good idea. Oil when compressed quickly can ignite far before the plugs fire to light the mixture in the combustion chambers before their predetermined time. This is somewhat how a diesel engine runs, not gasoline. Oil, yes oil can cause the timing of your ignition system to change and become more advanced. This not only kills horsepower, but causes detonation. This kills valves, seats and pistons & rings, and is one of the Achilles heals of the land rover longevity designs. I heavily modified this system, after seeing all land rover rear tailpipes oily black inside…………… I found a good cure was to drill and thread a hole in the oil pan for a ¼” npt ****** with a male 3/8” hose barb on the other end. A 3/8” hose goes from the oil pan to the bottom of a filtered reservoir, which both valve cover hoses tee into. On the top part of the box above the filter, is the line that goes to the intake plenum.
This helps a lot, and aids in cleaning up tail pipe issues. The filter system does need to be replaced periodically, it gets oil soaked.
I endorse this second fix as a better cure for this.
I later modified this design to a long 3/8” fuel hose that goes from the valve cover on the passenger side to the right front lower radiator mount, tee’s into a vacuum reservoir, (I pulled of a ford truck), and then goes to the passenger vacuum port on the plenum. This actually works better than the former attempt. All that is necessary is a drain on the vacuum reservoir.
The Landrover piston rings are quite thin but effective. The top ring is only .046” thick and the second is only .059” thick. Thinner rings generate less heat but require near perfect conditions to survive. If there is any carbon build up in the piston ring groove areas, there ability to rotate and seal is severly compromised and abusive ring wear is usually the result. Might want to try some seafoam
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
and see if things improve, and maybe it will losen up the carbon. You might want to use more than just one can. You can even pull the plugs out and pour this down the plug holes and let it set overnight.
Then before you re-install the plugs, turn the engine over by wrench, by hand half a dozen times to expel any liquid in the cylinders then use the starter to do the same task, then install the plugs, and restart.
Usually one of the main reasons the landrover engines consume oil is due to overheating, they’re not very forgiving in this area. These thin rings suffer the most and loose their spring tension against the cylinder walls. When this happens, it’s rebuild time, there is no other options here, and the liners do warp when overheated.
It’s odd you posted this, I rebuilt mine at 29,000 miles.
It was overheated……… it ran about $4,500……. But it’s highly improved.
Please, try the seafoam and get back with us and let us know how it’s running………
Take care…… Chongo
Anyone know if its normal for an '04 disco II w/28000 mile to burn 1/2 qt of oil between changes?
If it is leaking externally, this is an easier fix However, if it is internal and burning the oil, It gets expensive.
External engine design issues:
# 1 Crankcase ventilation. Or positive crankcase ventilation { pcv } system. First of all there are no check valves in this system. Should the engine backfire, it will pressurize the crankcase, but it will be so slight due to the small hole in the valve cover hose connection, that I did nothing here.
2nd The pcv system is all pretty much at the same level as the pressure differential source…. Aka…vaccum, and all land rovers I’ve seen have an oily residue in the hoses, leading to the intake. Oil going down the intake is not a good idea. Oil when compressed quickly can ignite far before the plugs fire to light the mixture in the combustion chambers before their predetermined time. This is somewhat how a diesel engine runs, not gasoline. Oil, yes oil can cause the timing of your ignition system to change and become more advanced. This not only kills horsepower, but causes detonation. This kills valves, seats and pistons & rings, and is one of the Achilles heals of the land rover longevity designs. I heavily modified this system, after seeing all land rover rear tailpipes oily black inside…………… I found a good cure was to drill and thread a hole in the oil pan for a ¼” npt ****** with a male 3/8” hose barb on the other end. A 3/8” hose goes from the oil pan to the bottom of a filtered reservoir, which both valve cover hoses tee into. On the top part of the box above the filter, is the line that goes to the intake plenum.
This helps a lot, and aids in cleaning up tail pipe issues. The filter system does need to be replaced periodically, it gets oil soaked.
I endorse this second fix as a better cure for this.
I later modified this design to a long 3/8” fuel hose that goes from the valve cover on the passenger side to the right front lower radiator mount, tee’s into a vacuum reservoir, (I pulled of a ford truck), and then goes to the passenger vacuum port on the plenum. This actually works better than the former attempt. All that is necessary is a drain on the vacuum reservoir.
The Landrover piston rings are quite thin but effective. The top ring is only .046” thick and the second is only .059” thick. Thinner rings generate less heat but require near perfect conditions to survive. If there is any carbon build up in the piston ring groove areas, there ability to rotate and seal is severly compromised and abusive ring wear is usually the result. Might want to try some seafoam
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
and see if things improve, and maybe it will losen up the carbon. You might want to use more than just one can. You can even pull the plugs out and pour this down the plug holes and let it set overnight.
Then before you re-install the plugs, turn the engine over by wrench, by hand half a dozen times to expel any liquid in the cylinders then use the starter to do the same task, then install the plugs, and restart.
Usually one of the main reasons the landrover engines consume oil is due to overheating, they’re not very forgiving in this area. These thin rings suffer the most and loose their spring tension against the cylinder walls. When this happens, it’s rebuild time, there is no other options here, and the liners do warp when overheated.
It’s odd you posted this, I rebuilt mine at 29,000 miles.
It was overheated……… it ran about $4,500……. But it’s highly improved.
Please, try the seafoam and get back with us and let us know how it’s running………
Take care…… Chongo
