Million $$$ Question, what to do with my aging LR3

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techboydino

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Good evening gents,
Coming up on 10 years for my LR3 and not sure what to do. As I would love an LR4, I can't spring the $70K for the (loaded) one I want. My LR3 does have it's issues but nothing major yet. Looking at other vehicles, but it's tough to find a suitable replacement. So far looked at TRD 4 Runner Pro, Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland w/ diesel, and some other luxury SUV's that have zero utility. I was looking at aftermarket warranties but it's a crap shoot on whats worth anything, so many horror stories. just looking for some advice.

1. I would love to find a decent 2 year warranty. Most 3rd party are between $1500-$2000 and claim to cover mostly everything, but reviews say otherwise. anyone with experience at all in this area I am welcome to suggestion

2. The truck is likely worth about $6000-$8500 here in the northeast, 80K miles and service up to date. Not much value in selling it anymore.

3. Likely slow leak somewhere since my compressor runs every single time i start the truck

4. Left rear window motor just went out, wont move with either switch

5. needs lower arms soon, clunky with ball joints wearing as well

5. Compressor was replaced under warranty, trans computer, bushings 2x, steering joint, axle seals, battery. All Royal purple short of trans, everything running good.

6. Have BT IIDtool, love it.
 
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Houm_WA

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I understand your dilema. Nothing else will do quite what the LR3 will, except another Rover over $60k. However, brand new they aren't any more trouble-free than a 10 year old LR3...the warranty helps, but at the end of the day it's tough to justify the cost.

I'm keeping my LR3 as long as it runs. I'm committing to keeping it running in top shape. I figure probably $2000-3000 per year since I only put on about 5000 miles per. I likely have different variables to consider than you do, but that's my take for my own situation. Good luck.
 

roverman

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Same exact boat. I'd like to get something 'new' but absolutely nothing makes sense. The 4runner was the closest to sway me, but it's lacking so much of the comforts that I've become used to. The TRD pro is cool, but for some reason, Toyota didn't want to give it real leather, push button start, or even a sunroof? Not to mention that somehow they do not depreciate, so a lightly used one (talking trail premium now) is within a grand or two of new.
I've considered getting a fun car of some sort, like a 3 series, but know I'd pretty much always opt for the LR. I've considered chopping the top and making it into a soft top, but that's just kind of stupid. I guess sooner or later I'll get an LR4 but can't wrap my head around getting virtually the same thing as I have now (only cheesier) and spending another at least $40k (for a lightly used one).

Long way to say, at least for now, I agree with Houm. Mine is a good one, I recently spent about $2500 and maybe total $3000 in 8 years of ownership. Another couple grand a year going forward isn't a big deal. I currently have a VVT knock on startup that I'm not worrying about, and original compressor that will probably quit sooner rather than later and a sunroof that has rattled since 2007.
 

tlt

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Unless it's falling apart, why wouldn't you simply whittle away on a regular basis on the little things it needs. Mine has nearly 150k and it's as good as new.. Just finished my latest round of upgrades and repairs..

If you rely on a warranty company, then you are not thinking about being proactive, you are thinking screw it until it breaks I don't have to pay for it.

Forget the insurance (gladly I did) at 75k and budget so much a month towards major repairs and upgrades. Sit the money aside and you will be money ahead, that insurance is very expensive.

On the window, check the switch, the plug on the switch, the front switch, etc. I don't think I have every heard of a motor going out, easy junkyard item.

Also there is a plastic clip that holds the window in..

On the control arms... ya, kind of a bummer, but they ride great for a 6k vehicle. I'm on 3rd set..
 
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techboydino

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Unless it's falling apart, why wouldn't you simply whittle away on a regular basis on the little things it needs. Mine has nearly 150k and it's as good as new.. Just finished my latest round of upgrades and repairs..

If you rely on a warranty company, then you are not thinking about being proactive, you are thinking screw it until it breaks I don't have to pay for it.

I can understand that logic. But I have to say my factory extended warranty paid for itself quite a few times over. Bushings, compressor, tailgate lock, and trans computer easily covered what I paid out. I just fear the catastrophic stuff. I have a small list of things on deck (plugs, hood latch, clockspring, air leak) which is likely part of the reason I'm thinking about a warranty. We'll see how things go.

I'm going to peel off the door panel soon and see if I'm getting any voltage there. Hopefully it's a switch but figured it unlikely since neither driver or rear switch work. That window barely ever went up/down as it is, so your likely right on the motor.

Appreciate all the replies.
 

jwest

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I don't know how you can buy 20k worth of warranty for only $1500-$2000. If it's cheap because of ANY deductible, then it's an extra bad choice. I bought a warranty for the full 50k-100k period over 4 years and it covered more than 3x it's cost to me but it was also all under dealer pricing and dealer style of "fixing" things.

For example, the right rear strut needed a new out gasket which is a $25 part and they replaced the whole strut. Wish I'd known what I do now, I'd have negotiated buying the "bad" one off them for a few $ to have around if the other one ever truly breaks.

Maybe you don't drive much, but I'd blow through your 80-100k miles in one year and very likely not utilize the warranty $ spent. That's usually how it goes, thus why they make money off you, not the other way around.

None of the problems you listed sound very expensive and some sound DIY.

Lastly, I think at it's , mileage, KBB value is almost double what you said. You could be at that spot in it's time where you either commit to the next phase of repairs but over 4 years is still cheaper than payments on something newer, or you sell and move forward.

I don't know why you say your choice is either no change, or a practically loaded 2015 for $70k. Why not a CPO 2012 for barely $40k.... ?
 

techboydino

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yeah yeah, you guys pulled me from the ledge. ill start "the fund" and see where it goes. I like to keep vehicles as long as possible so the next purchase will likely be new(er) when I can afford it. Within the next 2 years is the goal.

I have access to a lift and like to do as much as I can when I can do it, so small things are really no problem as you guys said. I appreciate all the insight, beings that I only have 80K on the vehicle I know some preventative maintenance is needed, and with the stuff that was warrantied a few years ago I should be ok.

I have the BT IIDtool which has been amazing. As stated some minor odds and ends to accomplish that should tighten things up. Just not sure I'm game for tackling the LCA's myself. I know it can be quite a job getting the bolts out or having to cut them apart. That's what happened on the first 2 sets that were replaced.

Thanks Gents.
 

PaulLR3

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I had the same dilemma about replacing my LR3. I considered a new LR4, GL450, 4runner, Xterra, Grand Cherokee Overland, etc. I found that the only vehicle that would make me happy was an LR4.

But IMO, the new LR4 has flaws. SCV6 seems fine, unless you have driven your wife's 2013 LR4 with the V8. Rotary shift wheel with shift paddles just isn't as intuitive when offroad and shifting manually. Eco-stop is stupid, as are the running boards that they claim should never be removed as they are a side-impact safety feature.

So I had to find a used 2013 LR4 and I'm so glad I did. I also made sure it has a CPO warranty which will cover me for 4 years or 100K miles. Keep driving your LR3 but start looking for that low mileage, 1-owner 2013 LR4 that was traded-in and is now CPO.
 

Houm_WA

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jwest....you drive 100,000 miles per year?

Geezus....Road Warrior!
 

techboydino

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So I had to find a used 2013 LR4 and I'm so glad I did. I also made sure it has a CPO warranty which will cover me for 4 years or 100K miles. Keep driving your LR3 but start looking for that low mileage, 1-owner 2013 LR4 that was traded-in and is now CPO.

Good call. I'll check out a gently used model. Drove a 2015 and loved it. I'm a techie so I like that most all the unnecessary features that are now built in. To date, the Grand Cherokee Overland is best successor with about a $20-25K less price tag. The biggest bonus there is the diesel which I've wanted forever. Not the best reviews, especially on the trans, but it's a really nice, capable vehicle anyway.
 

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