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EGCarp

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Thank you for the suggestion and write up. I will do it this afternoon and let you know the results.
 

RobRover88

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Don't consider coil overs. They ruin the ride & spoil the wheel articulation needed for the LR's famous
offroad abilities. You may as well just buy an old Jeep or 'Cruiser. The couple of Aussie guys I know of here
who did coil over conversions replaced their vehicles with a D4 & a 100 series 'Cruiser respectively after
being totally disappointed with the coil conversion. If you're a true LR fan just fix the suspension after using an ID tool to recalibrate it. You've already done much of he work. Don't waste it!!
 

EGCarp

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@RobRover88 - Good advice. Thanks for your response. As suggested earlier I need to invest in a OBDII scanner that will tell me exactly what’s wrong. I can start working on the issues I can fix and find a reputable mechanic to fix what I can’t.
 

remember5

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@RobRover88 - Good advice. Thanks for your response. As suggested earlier I need to invest in a OBDII scanner that will tell me exactly what’s wrong. I can start working on the issues I can fix and find a reputable mechanic to fix what I can’t.
It's not just an OBDII scanner like you would buy at Walmart. You have to have something that will let you calibrate the air suspension. Most guys on here have the GAP IID sold by Lucky8 and others. I have a Nanocom sold by Nanocom. There are others I have heard of that work and a ton of info on the forums and FB groups. My only issue with the Nanocom, and I'm not sure about the GAP, but it is VIN locked so I can't help other's with diagnosis. It was around $500 when I bought my 3 maybe 10 years ago and it's probably saved me easily 10 times that in diagnosis and repairs. I haven't had anyone work on my truck since I bought it other than tires and I let Goodyear replace my front air struts so being isolated as you are that tool will be invaluable.
 

m_lars

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It's not just an OBDII scanner like you would buy at Walmart. You have to have something that will let you calibrate the air suspension. Most guys on here have the GAP IID sold by Lucky8 and others. I have a Nanocom sold by Nanocom. There are others I have heard of that work and a ton of info on the forums and FB groups. My only issue with the Nanocom, and I'm not sure about the GAP, but it is VIN locked so I can't help other's with diagnosis. It was around $500 when I bought my 3 maybe 10 years ago and it's probably saved me easily 10 times that in diagnosis and repairs. I haven't had anyone work on my truck since I bought it other than tires and I let Goodyear replace my front air struts so being isolated as you are that tool will be invaluable.
Gap is VIN locked as well, but you can hit additional VINs. I do believe there is some basic functions that don’t require that, but I’ve never tested that myself.

To the OP, if you’ve done all of this without the proper scan tool you’ll never solve it. Given everything you’ve done you probably have a functioning system once you’ve calibrated. It’s my opinion you can’t own a 3 without one.
 

EGCarp

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Thanks to everyone that commented. I really appreciate everyone’s help and encouragement.

I will purchase the proper Gap tool and go from there. I did jack up the rear of the vehicle and no change. One last question: Will the Gap list every specific fault in the air suspension or give a generalized fault message?
 

Houm_WA

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It will give specific messages.

So yes, buy the IIDTool made by GAP Diagnostics. Use it to calibrate your suspension, and live happily ever after. That is your plan. Please do report back. I'd like to hear the outcome.
 

steevo

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On my first LR3 I did the coil conversion; At the time I was new to LR, it was my daily driver and the suspension was intimidating. The ride isn't as good on-road, but overall I thought that the coils weren't bad offroad, their weak spot is off-camber situations. On my second LR3 I had gained more experience on LRs and got myself a GAP IID tool. I was able to fix the air suspension issues relatively easily. The GAP IID tool seems expensive up front, but it has saved me many more times the money in the long run across the years and 4 LRs I've owned.

FWIW, I think the LR3 is the most reliable LR made. I've had very few problems with the ones I owned. A good place to start is with @remember5 advice to calibrate the new sensors once you get the GAP tool. Specifically for the suspension, be wary of aftermarket parts. I don't know what brand parts you bought, but off-brand compressors are known to be bad out of the box, and I've had issues with cheap valve blocks too. If money is an issue, I'd rather buy a known-good used OEM valve block than a new off-brand (and I have on 2 occasions). If the OEM block was leaking, I'd probably rebuild it with an ebay kit before I bought an off-brand one (done this once too). When you did the struts, did you replace the fittings, ferrules and o-rings? Using the old ones is rolling the dice.
 

gore'88

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I am going to be brutally honest here, it sounds like you threw parts at the EAS without really knowing what needed to be fixed. You installed new shocks and new sensors, did you calibrate it after? Is your compressor working properly? Did you check for leaks and did you complete other checks https://epicvin.com/vin-decoder/ford? The EAS doesn't just $hit the bed, and it's pretty easy to diagnose.

I'm not sure why you mention timing chains since that's an issue on the LR4...and maybe the V6. Do you have a MY2006 with the V6?

To answer your question I would neither switch to coils nor send it to the scrap heap. I'd actually fix it! Spend some time troubleshooting, figure out the real issue, and fix it once.

Agree. It's better to fix the real issue.
 
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