New (to me) 2012 LR4 5.0
- Thread starter M32H32IS
- Start date
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Looks stock to me, I also just went through this entire process of replacing all of the drivetrain fluids and transmission pan/filter. I found that RMEuropean had the best prices for fluids, they have all of them from the diffs, transmission to transfer case. You can do either LR branded or OE ones which I opted for. As for the transmission filter, the stock unit has a built in filter and you have to basically break it to get it out of place, I'll find the origional forum for you on this as it's got tons of useful info - most guys(including myself) opt to change it to a solid steel pan with a replaceable filter for longevity and easier replacement down the line.
txfromwi
Full Access Member
I changed the transmission pan/filter and fluid on my 2016 very early last spring, but your 2012 would be a more involved project.
Plenty of good discussion posts here for that project.
I will be doing the transmission pan/filter fluid on my 2013, and will post a video, but that won't be until late 2022 or early 2023.
(It's already way to hot here in Houston to be doing this job - need to wait until it cools off a bit again...)
If doing it yourself you will need to purchase the IIDTool.
I tend to use Palm Beach Land Rover for on-line purchases - excellent help with finding part numbers that I am will to pay a bit extra for.
Atlantic British and FCPEuro are good as well and I have used each of them for various fluids.
Do pay attention at non-Rover sites to be sure you understand when you are purchasing Rover vs non-Rover look alike parts.
Regarding the front end.
First thing is likely lower control arms.
it's not a bad job, but like everything Rover, there are tricks.
Diagnose this way. Drive 2-3 mph and brake hard. It if clunks it's most likely the lower control arm bushings. Some guys change just the bushings, I just changed the entire control arm assembly because it also comes with a new ball joint. Of course do it as an axle pair.
Plenty of good discussion posts here for that project.
I will be doing the transmission pan/filter fluid on my 2013, and will post a video, but that won't be until late 2022 or early 2023.
(It's already way to hot here in Houston to be doing this job - need to wait until it cools off a bit again...)
If doing it yourself you will need to purchase the IIDTool.
I tend to use Palm Beach Land Rover for on-line purchases - excellent help with finding part numbers that I am will to pay a bit extra for.
Atlantic British and FCPEuro are good as well and I have used each of them for various fluids.
Do pay attention at non-Rover sites to be sure you understand when you are purchasing Rover vs non-Rover look alike parts.
Regarding the front end.
First thing is likely lower control arms.
it's not a bad job, but like everything Rover, there are tricks.
Diagnose this way. Drive 2-3 mph and brake hard. It if clunks it's most likely the lower control arm bushings. Some guys change just the bushings, I just changed the entire control arm assembly because it also comes with a new ball joint. Of course do it as an axle pair.
I’m also in Houston, well the Northern burbs. Ended up hav g to buy a reman engine for my Rover but life is good now.
I’m back to the original goal of redoing all the suspension parts. That should be done during Christmas break.
Then roof rack, ladder, snorkel & wheels/tires.
So the machine shop's rebuild didn't last?
txfromwi
Full Access Member
I am in SE Houston, near NASA and Ellington Field.
On my 2013 I am considering just changing the transmission fluid rather than the pan/filter (yes, yes, I know...), but it was not fun on the 2016 and will be worse on the 2013...
Either way, it's scheduled for this "winter".
If it helps, here is my video on front control arms:
On my 2013 I am considering just changing the transmission fluid rather than the pan/filter (yes, yes, I know...), but it was not fun on the 2016 and will be worse on the 2013...
Either way, it's scheduled for this "winter".
If it helps, here is my video on front control arms:
Well apparently someone cut some corners. I was lied to about the following:
completely disassembled, balanced crank, new pistons & rods, machined block
And Because of that, it would build internal pressure and eventually boil the coolant. Happened 3 times so I finally broke down and swapped to a reman engine.
The new engine has about 7500 miles on it and purrs perfectly. I’m averaging 19mpg on the “new” engine.
This process has been insanely expensive but once the truck is essentially all new I’ll drive it for years.
TrinidadLR4
Full Access Member
I have to ask this too - how is it any worse?
CRYA
Full Access Member
Presumably he's referring to the difference between needing to break/cut the filter neck on the '13 vs. the straight pan removal on the '16. I've got my kit coming via UPS and still rather nervous too about doing this solo in the driveway. Still not clear on the refill procedures for the 5.0...
