PCV refresh/replacement
- Thread starter Michael Gain
- Start date
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jlglr4
Full Access Member
This PCV refresh is a good place to start if you haven’t already done it. It is probably the most common cause for the lean code at idle that I’ve seen on these forums. It’ll need to be done at some point anyway, so even if that’s not your problem, it’s not a waste of time.
You can probably narrow it down to a vacuum leak if you have a gap tool (or other tool) that can look at fuel trims - lean fuel trims trending down to normal with increasing RPMs.
Couple of other common vacuum leaks I’ve read about have been breather hoses popping loose - especially the drivers side where it connects to the air intake plenum - that happened to me; bad purge valve; valve cover leak (you‘d be seeing an oil leak too I suspect); and other evap components (though I’d expect EVAP leak codes as well). The V8 had issues with the vacuum pump, but I haven’t heard of those on the V6 so much.
You can probably narrow it down to a vacuum leak if you have a gap tool (or other tool) that can look at fuel trims - lean fuel trims trending down to normal with increasing RPMs.
Couple of other common vacuum leaks I’ve read about have been breather hoses popping loose - especially the drivers side where it connects to the air intake plenum - that happened to me; bad purge valve; valve cover leak (you‘d be seeing an oil leak too I suspect); and other evap components (though I’d expect EVAP leak codes as well). The V8 had issues with the vacuum pump, but I haven’t heard of those on the V6 so much.
Land Rover Joe
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Great Posts and photographs everyone!
Thank you @Michael Gain!
I purchased two "PCV Valve Service Kit LR133579, Includes Diaphragm And Cap" from Atlantic British and did the install today.
There were no codes and no visible or auditory issues but felt that after 15 years and 90,000 miles - it would be time for a PCV Valve refresh. Also, this job is WAY easier with the engine broken down.
My truck is a 2010 LR4 (5.0 V8) with 90,000 miles.
There were no obvious issues with the old PCV Valves but I am glad that we replaced them and would recommend anyone who pulls the valve covers off to go ahead and just do this job with all the parts more easily accessible (as @jlglr4 notes). The springs are a bit corroded, the metal covers did break (the little retainers, as expected), and the plastic/rubber seal is pretty worn and dirty and getting brittle. But they had not failed (yet).
Thanks again and below is a photo of what the new valves look like on the covers before re-installation, in front of the old valves.
I Appreciate folks insights!
Thank you @Michael Gain!
I purchased two "PCV Valve Service Kit LR133579, Includes Diaphragm And Cap" from Atlantic British and did the install today.
There were no codes and no visible or auditory issues but felt that after 15 years and 90,000 miles - it would be time for a PCV Valve refresh. Also, this job is WAY easier with the engine broken down.
My truck is a 2010 LR4 (5.0 V8) with 90,000 miles.
There were no obvious issues with the old PCV Valves but I am glad that we replaced them and would recommend anyone who pulls the valve covers off to go ahead and just do this job with all the parts more easily accessible (as @jlglr4 notes). The springs are a bit corroded, the metal covers did break (the little retainers, as expected), and the plastic/rubber seal is pretty worn and dirty and getting brittle. But they had not failed (yet).
Thanks again and below is a photo of what the new valves look like on the covers before re-installation, in front of the old valves.
I Appreciate folks insights!
