Pulls hard right on acelleration

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kevinkelley

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just going back to the beginning, the issue started right after you had all the work done (rear locker installed, timing chain, control arms) - is that right?
Thank you for asking. Correct. Which makes it difficult to troubleshoot or isolate the issue to any single fix.
 

jlglr4

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Doesn’t sound like it has anything to do with the new differential as it does the same thing with the diff locked up. And the rear bearing and axel was replaced after the problem started, so that’s not likely the cause.

Wondering if something went wrong with the control arm install causing an imbalance in the stiffness of the rear suspension between the two sides. I’m just thinking that a soft (or stiff) corner in the rear might cause the car to pitch under acceleration, which could cause your steering wheel to kick over. Could one of those control arms be binding up, or could something have happened to one of the struts during the installation?
 

kevinkelley

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Doesn’t sound like it has anything to do with the new differential as it does the same thing with the diff locked up. And the rear bearing and axel was replaced after the problem started, so that’s not likely the cause.

Wondering if something went wrong with the control arm install causing an imbalance in the stiffness of the rear suspension between the two sides. I’m just thinking that a soft (or stiff) corner in the rear might cause the car to pitch under acceleration, which could cause your steering wheel to kick over. Could one of those control arms be binding up, or could something have happened to one of the struts during the installation?
Thank you for thinking this over. It’s all I’ve been thinking about. I have more money in recent work than the almost 10yr old vehicle is worth but she is my baby and I love her so much. I’ve built her as a perfect overland vehicle. She’s been so good to me over the years. Unfortunately I can’t let this go, it’s not really safe driving especially in a situation where I need to get on the gas, such as passing someone. No matter the speed, if I get on the gas, where you can feel the torque kick in, it pulls/corrects/pulls/corrects. I can feel the correction in the wheel -little micro bursts in the brakes, if that makes sense.
 

jlglr4

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Yeah, I can imagine the feeling in the steering wheel they way you’ve described it, and I certainly understand your obsession with the problem.

You’ve suspected traction control in your posts, which might point to a bad sensor - maybe a yaw sensor or accelerometer. But it seems to do it with TC turned off. And the TC doesn’t seem to relate to any of the work you had done. Since it showed up right after that work, seems like there must be a connection, which is what leads me to the rear suspension.

Wondering if it changes if you have the EAS pumped up to off road height (or lowered to access mode)? Or maybe putting some weight in one rear corner or the other? Just trying to think of easy things that might give you a clue on the suspension side.

Also, does the ARB air locker run off the EAS pump, or did they mount another pump someplace? Just wondering where else they might have been working on the car.

Aside from that, and just reading back through your posts, I’d start going through your front end more thoroughly if you haven’t already. I know you said the dealer looked at it, and they did an alignment, but did they really go under there and test for any slack in the u-joints, cv joints, ball joints, front control arms, etc. I don’t trust dealer’s work anymore. I find them to be lazy in diagnosing things.
 

f1racer328

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Just a thought... I'm not sure how these vehicles react to pulling the ABS fuse, thus fully disabling the traction/stability control, but maybe that's something you could try.

Just looking on some website it looks like the DSC/ABS fuses are in the engine compartment and the passenger fuse compartment.

I'd only try this if you suspect it is an electrical issue. And if you do, like I said, no idea what codes the car will throw and you will not have any ABS or driver aids.


On an unrelated note, maybe when the shop installed your control arms, they didn't torque your axle nuts properly? (Makes it easier to install the control arms if you pop the wheel hub out of the way, thus requiring a new axle nut)

I guess you'd have to grab a 36mm deep socket and pop the center cap off the wheel and check the torque value (I forget what it is, I think it is 165 ft lbs for the new nut design, and something like 230 for the old nut)

I just have a feeling if the axle was popping out or something crazy was happening you'd hear it and or have a wheel fall off.
 

LB Bill

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Sorry about the frustration! Back to the recent “crap ton of work” you had done. I know this is rehashing, but if it wasn’t doing that before then doesn’t it seem like the ARB rear locker should be the prime suspect? I say that because after watching your videos (geez btw!), while maybe not the correct technical term, it looks like ‘torque vectoring’ gone berserk, ….but while steering straight.

I admit that I don’t have knowledge of how the ARB rear locker splices into the LR terrain response/traction control/drive train programs and electronics, but it sounds tricky.


I haven’t noticed this phenomenon before with mine, but next time I have it out I’m going to swing by a wide open patch of asphalt to ‘push it’ while in various modes and see what happens.
 

kevinkelley

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Yeah, I can imagine the feeling in the steering wheel they way you’ve described it, and I certainly understand your obsession with the problem.

You’ve suspected traction control in your posts, which might point to a bad sensor - maybe a yaw sensor or accelerometer. But it seems to do it with TC turned off. And the TC doesn’t seem to relate to any of the work you had done. Since it showed up right after that work, seems like there must be a connection, which is what leads me to the rear suspension.

Wondering if it changes if you have the EAS pumped up to off road height (or lowered to access mode)? Or maybe putting some weight in one rear corner or the other? Just trying to think of easy things that might give you a clue on the suspension side.

Also, does the ARB air locker run off the EAS pump, or did they mount another pump someplace? Just wondering where else they might have been working on the car.

Aside from that, and just reading back through your posts, I’d start going through your front end more thoroughly if you haven’t already. I know you said the dealer looked at it, and they did an alignment, but did they really go under there and test for any slack in the u-joints, cv joints, ball joints, front control arms, etc. I don’t trust dealer’s work anymore. I find them to be lazy in diagnosing things.
I’ll do some research on these -yaw sensor or accelerometer. with that said, I can only assume a fault would pop up.
I have the same steering issue in off-road height. I haven’t tried in access mode but I will.
I do plan on revisiting the possibilities of something wrong upfront, ie. cv joints, control arms, etc...
The ARB locker has a separate ARB air compressor.
The dealership has actually been pretty good, have made nice with my service advisor and the service foreman. They all really appreciate my truck and do seem helpful. Plus they recognize it’s a safety issue.
I plan on having my independent auto shop pull the fuses to see if these is the same steering issue without TC and ABS.
No issue with weight in the back as I have the truck “ready to go” kitted out with recovery gear and a bug out setup, so weight isn’t an issue. In fact, I should do the opposite, empty the truck to see if their is a difference.

Thank you for your time and thoughts, keep them coming.
 

kevinkelley

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Just a thought... I'm not sure how these vehicles react to pulling the ABS fuse, thus fully disabling the traction/stability control, but maybe that's something you could try.

Just looking on some website it looks like the DSC/ABS fuses are in the engine compartment and the passenger fuse compartment.

I'd only try this if you suspect it is an electrical issue. And if you do, like I said, no idea what codes the car will throw and you will not have any ABS or driver aids.


On an unrelated note, maybe when the shop installed your control arms, they didn't torque your axle nuts properly? (Makes it easier to install the control arms if you pop the wheel hub out of the way, thus requiring a new axle nut)

I guess you'd have to grab a 36mm deep socket and pop the center cap off the wheel and check the torque value (I forget what it is, I think it is 165 ft lbs for the new nut design, and something like 230 for the old nut)

I just have a feeling if the axle was popping out or something crazy was happening you'd hear it and or have a wheel fall off.
I plan on testing this out.
I will ask (taking notes of what to ask, test and follow up on with the auto shop), the shop I use is pretty good with torquing nuts and bolts from what I have seen first hand. But I will reconfirm.
I want to exhaust everything else before looking to replace the front control arms, cv joints bushings etc... plus I’ve been told by both the auto shop and dealership l, everything looks in good order.
In terms of ride height in the rear, the truck does sit slightly high as the new control arms with poly bushings still need to settle. Nothing drastic when compared or in relation to height in the front.
 

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