Quick Compressor Replacement Question

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ryanjl

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I said this in another thread, but the air struts were the one time where pre-spraying some penetrating oil on the 3 top nuts really paid off. Didn't do it on the passenger side and it was a PITA. Finished the passenger side then sprayed the top nuts on the driver's side. It was late so I tackled that one the next morning. So much easier.
 

BeemerNut

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It's not the filter that causes failures. It's the dessicant in the dryer that decomposes over time and sends dust through the system.
Sounds like you need a filtering system after this known to fail dessicant unit before it happens again.
If a known problem, i'd make a modification before it failed the first time if I owned one of these vehicles. ......~~=o&o>......
 

ftillier

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There are rebuild kits for the dehydrator that are dead simple to do, though you have to drop the compressor to R&R. There are a few filter elements in the dehydrator: one at the entrance, and a pair (stacked) at the exit. The design isn't fundamentally flawed, it's just not a lifetime setup - doing it every 10 years is not unreasonable IMO. Point being, there are filters, they just need replacing eventually, without needing to re-engineer the system out of misconception that it was ill designed to begin with.
 

BeemerNut

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There are rebuild kits for the dehydrator that are dead simple to do, though you have to drop the compressor to R&R. There are a few filter elements in the dehydrator: one at the entrance, and a pair (stacked) at the exit. The design isn't fundamentally flawed, it's just not a lifetime setup - doing it every 10 years is not unreasonable IMO. Point being, there are filters, they just need replacing eventually, without needing to re-engineer the system out of misconception that it was ill designed to begin with.

LR should of made a note stating preventive maintence to replace filters by 4 or 5 years time or X amount of miles before having a total failure issue at 10 years then it was too late. I bet by the 4-5 year time period it was due to be replaced not your 10 with total failure time.

Hell might as well run an oil filter 100K miles or until an engine failure happened due to a luberication failure. This now means filter life is good for 100K or when the engine failure happened the miles before changing? Total failure vs preventive maintenance I recall was to prevent such failures......~~=o&o>.......
 
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ftillier

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I suspect the bean counters and lawyers at LR decided labeling things as lifetime (without specifying whose lifetime) was a fiscally and CYA prudent maneuver. To note, the only failure I had was self inflicted, from snapping the compressor bracket by trying to use it as a lift point. The system had been trouble free up until that point, and is now again trouble free. The LR4 is growing on me the more I learn about it, to be honest.
 

txfromwi

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Hey everyone!

Getting ready to do the compressor on the 2016 and there are a few questions.

Rover cannot tell me definitively which compressor was originally installed, they can only tell me that because it's a newer model that it probably came with the AMK.
Does anyone know for sure that this is true?
(I cannot just take a look because my daughter has the truck across the country.)

Rover (Paramus and Palm Beach), frustratingly, cannot tell me what brand compressor they are selling me, so does anyone know what brand I am likely to get? LR078650
(Or maybe this time go with AB because they specify they are selling the AMK.)
The mechanics manual, and Rover Paramus, tell me that I might need to tap some threads, but again, cannot tell me with certainty because apparently every compressor is different?? - that's what they say...

Just to be sure, as long as I am replacing AMK with AMK then there is no re-programming - true?
But replacing Hitachi with AMK does require re-programming - true?
And can the IIDTool handle that re-programming, if required? Y/N?

AB claims that the Hitachi is the better compressor. If I have the AMK, can I go to the Hitachi? Re-programming for that?

The air intake filter LR070673 (not the drier) lives inside the cabin behind the trim work on the drivers rear. Paramus says they never replace these when doing compressors. I was thinking about inspecting when the truck comes home and going from there. At $100 or so, any thoughts?

I just so do love that every Rover is a totally unique individual because it was put together with whatever was laying around that day... and it's going to be "one of those" repairs...

Thanks!
 
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djkaosone

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Rover cannot tell me definitively which compressor was originally installed, they can only tell me that because it's a newer model that it probably came with the AMK.
Does anyone know for sure that this is true?
(I cannot just take a look because my daughter has the truck across the country.)
All '14 and up has the newer AMK compressors, with some late '12 and '13s have the AMK fitted.

Rover (Paramus and Palm Beach), frustratingly, cannot tell me what brand compressor they are selling me, so does anyone know what brand I am likely to get? LR078650
(Or maybe this time go with AB because they specify they are selling the AMK.)
The mechanics manual, and Rover Paramus, tell me that I might need to tap some threads, but again, cannot tell me with certainty because apparently every compressor is different?? - that's what they say...
Most likely you're getting the genuine compressor from a Land Rover dealership. I would suggest getting it from FCPEuro and have a lifetime warranty for it and from the looks of it comes with all the extra parts for retrofitting if necessary. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-suspension-air-compressor-lr023964

Just to be sure, as long as I am replacing AMK with AMK then there is no re-programming - true?
But replacing Hitachi with AMK does require re-programming - true?
And can the IIDTool handle that re-programming, if required? Y/N?
AMK with AMK no programming necessary. Hitachi to AMK, it's suggested to re-program, but will still work inefficiently. IIDTool can reprogram if necessary.

AB claims that the Hitachi is the better compressor. If I have the AMK, can I go to the Hitachi? Re-programming for that?
Yes, Hitachi is better because of serviceability and being robust.

The air intake filter LR070673 (not the drier) lives inside the cabin behind the trim work on the drivers rear. Paramus says they never replace these when doing compressors. I was thinking about inspecting when the truck comes home and going from there. At $100 or so, any thoughts?
Yes, the foam insert in the air intake filter crumbles over time. I simply broke off the air filter and replaced it with a K&N breather filter.
 

BeemerNut

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The "LR genuine" replacemt parts are meanigless, more like whatever they have in stock of their oredered replacement item ends up deleived to the dealereship.

I ordered a "geunine LR" manual radio antenna for a six year old vehicle. Plastic package had "genuine LR" all over it. The rubber mounting grommet to fender contact fell thru the hole. "Special order no returns on electrical parts" plus the remark, "you must have a drilled out hole in the fender". Factory original LR nope.
The antenna, made in India, crappier quality than the original antenna which already was cheap crap.

Farther up this thread replay about "lifetime parts" by LR, when it fails that's the part's lifetime be it before or after warranty expires.
Not replacing the foam air filter after replacing compressor, I read this right above reply? What other corner cutting money saving done you do not know about while your vehicle being serviced?
Replacement throwout bearing two weeks before end of 7/100K extended warranty expired and 27 days later the throwout bearing was screaming loud as if it were installed without grease in the bearing. LR as wll extended warranty, not covered your warranty expired. New installed throwout bearing never made it to 600 miles mostly highway use......~~=o&o>......


 

djkaosone

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@BeemerNut I feel ya. Stealerships are just that, a business that is under the name, "Land Rover". Service techs are selling goods and services at premium prices. Just look at their hourly service is almost $200/hr, that's outrageous.
 

txfromwi

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Thanks! So any input on going from the AMK to the Hitachi? Re-programming?
Looks like that K&N Breather filter will save a few $ with no downside!


Yup, I learned very early on, way back in the '70's that my work on a vehicle is always superior to the dealership.
And although expensive, I usually (not always) use OEM parts - too many after market parts that are just junk and do not fit.
 

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