Replace front halfshaft

[maxx4wd]

Agree with above statement and pry location...I also used two pry bars - on on either side at the same time...can't recall if that actually helped as it has been awhile since i removed the left side but I do recall that it took quite a bit of force to get the clips to release...once released though they slide out without much fuss...If memory serves constant pressure was better then smacking it with a hammer...just when youre about to give up is right about the time it releases...lol - good luck it can be a bit frustrating...try a couple different size pry bars if you have them...

 

[jwest]

An easy one is the tpms antennae or receiver thingy screws into the fender liner roughly at 9-9:30 if considering it the arc of a clock on driver side (port). Wire clips in or out of the unit so you can remove fender liner without of course unscrewing it. Some fool probably didn’t know how to deal w the elec connector or just removed all screws in fender liner regardless.

The fog lamp unit mounts to a bracket on my ARB bumper so I imagine a similar bracket is in a factory bumper?

You are doing ALL new bushings where the both upper and lower control arms mount into frame right? Hope so. Such an involved job you’d be crazy not to do that one aspect.

I did all 8 and all associates suspension components in 2017 as well as struts and brakes.

 

[jondvd]

Thanks for the help. I will try the strap method for removing the cv axle if the pickle forks don't work. Unfortunately I would probably have to anchor the other end of the strap to ground as my LR3 is in the middle of my garage, so no chance of getting another vehicle next to it.

I see now where the TPMS antenna goes but I need some clips I guess. I still don't see how the fog light electronics is supposed to mount to the bumper though.

I'm not replacing the upper control arm bushings because the previous owner had them recently replaced. But I think I can do it pretty easily next time if I have to. I feel pretty familiar with the suspension at this point. I'm guessing that the air struts will fail at some point so will do the uppers then. I'm going to rebuild the old lower control arms so I'll have an extra set if/when I need them. I was thinking about trying poly bushings and maybe raising it a couple inches. I saw someone that had one for sale that had his raised a couple inches with all stock suspension but said he had to reprogram the computer. Not sure about that last part but I'll start researching when I pick up another cheap LR3 to mod. These aren't cheap to work on but I really like what we get for the money.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[jondvd]

Finally got the axle off . I feel a bit foolish though cuz it was very easy. I can't believe how much I struggled with it. I used mfrecklr3's advice (thank you!) with the longest handled pickle fork that I had. I laid under the front axle (my head on the side I was removing the axle (driver's side), so my feet were under the passenger side axle) and placed the fork as instructed and gave it 3 good whacks with just one arm, toward the passenger side, and it just popped out. I hadn't even hit it as hard as I could yet. I did hit a road block though, the new cv axle didn't come with a new seal. Still happy dance time though!

 

[jondvd]

Anyone have experience using Lucky8's driveshaft axle seal? Are the cv axle and driveshaft seals the same?

 

[jwest]

I like Lucky8 but for something like that i'd usually opt for straight up "genuine".

 

[maxx4wd]

one thing about the driveshaft seal -
1. be very careful to get the seal flush and fully seated - I didn't quite get mine perfect on the driver's side and it leaked...which meant I had to do the whole job again the following weekend for a 5 buck seal. I ordered an extra seal after that just in case I marred one or didn't get it flush...cheap insurance not to have to do the tear down again later...now I just put the extra in my spare parts bin just in case I need one.
2. once you get the seal flush be very careful when you first feed the axle back into the diff...if you let it rest on that rubber portion of the seal at all it could also cause a leak - other than that though it should be fairly easy - I know these are common sense things but when you're at this point in the job I found that I picked up the pace a bit and started making dumb mistakes...

 

[jondvd]

$5? I just drove 4 hours and spent $64.13 at the LR dealership At least I can have her back up this weekend.

 

[maxx4wd]

ok maybe not 5 but mine were only like 12 bucks max...don't recall them being anywhere near that expensive but I did get them online from a dealer so maybe locally would be double.

 

[scott schmerge]

So here is what I have thus far as I consider doing my passenger side 1/2 shaft.

Symptoms. Slight shudder under load between 3-4 gear. Also at 40mph plus under moderate load (or uphill which is the same thing) notice a slight vibration/rumble like going over rumble strips. Vibration not present when coasting, during rapid acceleration, or downshift on climb.

Initially thought issue was potentially transmission related, however, no codes present for transmission. My local lr tech drove and also suspected a possible early transmission issue or issue with control arm bushings (they were worn out to the point of banging around over slight bumps)


Did pan swap and filter change with AB’s kit (at 115k with the original filter and pan, it was due anyways). Minimal improvement but thankful that task was behind me. Fluid was clean for 100k. Performed bushing upgrade on lower Control Arm (CA) to polybush from AB. Performed this repair with the CA attached to the vehicle (much faster than the AB route of removing the CA in entirety). Issue became more noticeable because of the stiffness in the bushings. Differential serviced (had never been done at 115k and fluid in front diff was slightly discolored but no indication of failing diff) Checked wheel bearings for any play and all checks out fine. Suspect passenger side 1/2 shaft to be the offending part.


Prior to doing so, I wanted to lay out my plan for comment or feedback on anything I’m forgetting. I will post pictures and exact procedure once complete (as I can’t find much out there- tried both AB and YouTube)


Passenger side 1/2 shaft removal and refit procedure:


Remove center locking nut on hub

Remove brake caliper and hang

Remove wheel speed sensor (not positive this is necessary but may take the extra two minutes just in case)

Remove top ball joint to disconnect upper control arm

Slide out 1/2 shaft from hub assembly

Use slide hammer to remove offending 1/2 shaft from differential (saw this on a YouTube video for LR3 1/2 shaft removal and seemed to be much easier or more favorable route than pry bar).

Once removed, pull seal from old 1/2 shaft and fit to new 1/2 shaft (or fit new 1/2 shaft seal)

Fit new 1/2 shaft to differential. (Careful to not pull 1/2 shaft apart)

Insert cv axle to hub assembly

Reconnect upper control arm

Refit wheel speed sensor

Refit brake caliper

Refit new locking nut and tap end to secure to 1/2 shaft

Refit Wheel


Any adaptations or advice before I start?