Replace front halfshaft

[maxx4wd]

Only a couple minor things...looks about right though. 1. You may want to drain the diff fluid as capture it so you can put back what drains out when taking out the half shaft (if you drain ahead of time you don't need to guess how much came out) 2. Not sure why the diff seal would come off with the half shaft but I'd replace that with a new one while you're in there...they're like 10 bucks and oh buy 2 just in case you mar it when seating it...it's alot easier to mar then you'd think. Other than that I've noticed that the new half shafts have a larger 32mm locking nut so just make sure you have a socket that'll fit both the locking nut your taking off and the new one. Like the slide hammer approach - do you have the youtube link for that...just trying to picture how they got on in there and how that works...also might want to replace the bearing while your at it since your over 100k...just so you don't have to do it later and redo the front alignment again. check your steering tie rods and tie rod ends for play since you'll be in there...they tend to go quickly on our heavy trucks too. But other than that it sounds like youve got it covered... (how did the pan removal and fluid change go...I've had my parts for over 8 months and I'm dreading doing it...)

 

[scott schmerge]

Only a couple minor things...looks about right though. 1. You may want to drain the diff fluid as capture it so you can put back what drains out when taking out the half shaft (if you drain ahead of time you don't need to guess how much came out) 2. Not sure why the diff seal would come off with the half shaft but I'd replace that with a new one while you're in there...they're like 10 bucks and oh buy 2 just in case you mar it when seating it...it's alot easier to mar then you'd think. Other than that I've noticed that the new half shafts have a larger 32mm locking nut so just make sure you have a socket that'll fit both the locking nut your taking off and the new one. Like the slide hammer approach - do you have the youtube link for that...just trying to picture how they got on in there and how that works...also might want to replace the bearing while your at it since your over 100k...just so you don't have to do it later and redo the front alignment again. check your steering tie rods and tie rod ends for play since you'll be in there...they tend to go quickly on our heavy trucks too. But other than that it sounds like youve got it covered... (how did the pan removal and fluid change go...I've had my parts for over 8 months and I'm dreading doing it...)

Thanks for all your input. I didn’t see your reply until after the job.

Alright, so I just did the job and the slide hammer made the removal a breeze. I cut the boot and separated the 1/2 shaft. The new 1/2 shaft came with a new locking nut and seal.

I’ll post pictures tomorrow.

Here’s the bad...I didn’t fully seat the 1/2 shaft back in the diff...I thought I felt it fully lock- but had a friend there who was working on his truck at the same time and got distracted and didn’t double check by pulling on it...soooooooo...
Test drive didn’t go so hot...I got about 1/4 mile and the 1/2 shaft dislodged from the diff. No power to the drive and I’m assuming I left a trail of diff fluid behind. It’s 11pm here and abandoned the truck in a parking lot. Hopefully it’s just a matter of fully seating and refilling diff. Not assuming any damage was done...fingers crossed. I had just done the diff service a couple of weeks ago...ugh.

More tomorrow. Will post photos of my setup with the slide hammer.

The pan swap is messy messy. But not hard to do. Ab’s Video is great if you have not checked it.

Here is what I would do if I had to do it again. I’d get a mighty vac and fill the tranny that way. Make sure you get it all the way topped up. I think mine took 6.5 quarts total. I’d fill the mighty vac with 6.5 quarts and do the job without near the mess...

 

[scott schmerge]

Only a couple minor things...looks about right though. 1. You may want to drain the diff fluid as capture it so you can put back what drains out when taking out the half shaft (if you drain ahead of time you don't need to guess how much came out) 2. Not sure why the diff seal would come off with the half shaft but I'd replace that with a new one while you're in there...they're like 10 bucks and oh buy 2 just in case you mar it when seating it...it's alot easier to mar then you'd think. Other than that I've noticed that the new half shafts have a larger 32mm locking nut so just make sure you have a socket that'll fit both the locking nut your taking off and the new one. Like the slide hammer approach - do you have the youtube link for that...just trying to picture how they got on in there and how that works...also might want to replace the bearing while your at it since your over 100k...just so you don't have to do it later and redo the front alignment again. check your steering tie rods and tie rod ends for play since you'll be in there...they tend to go quickly on our heavy trucks too. But other than that it sounds like youve got it covered... (how did the pan removal and fluid change go...I've had my parts for over 8 months and I'm dreading doing it...)

Also, forgot...the diff fluid didn’t seep at all during the job. I anticipated it wouldn’t due to the elevated side of the truck and the position of the fill plug. If I had only sealed it, would have been golden. Also, bearing its tight and sounds well lubed, but hindsight should have done it at the same time as you mentioned. If I have to pull the 1/2 shaft again, I will definitely do the bearing.

Below is a picture of my setup for removal. Cut boot and separate half shaft. Use slide hammer attached to the sleeve (on the shaft). I had to pull about 4 times on the slide hammer before it broke free from the differential. I was really relieved as the pry bar method seemed to be a chore.

My problem is, now I’ve got a partially dislodged new 1/2 shaft. It seems I can’t get the c clip to seat into the differential. If anyone has any ideas without me taking the entire hub assembly apart again, I’m all ears...

Access is pretty tight but I can reach the sleeve and boot on the middle of the shaft, just have no leverage to get it seated.

 

[scott schmerge]

Also, forgot...the diff fluid didn’t seep at all during the job. I anticipated it wouldn’t due to the elevated side of the truck and the position of the fill plug. If I had only sealed it, would have been golden. Also, bearing its tight and sounds well lubed, but hindsight should have done it at the same time as you mentioned. If I have to pull the 1/2 shaft again, I will definitely do the bearing.

Below is a picture of my setup for removal. Cut boot and separate half shaft. Use slide hammer attached to the sleeve (on the shaft). I had to pull about 4 times on the slide hammer before it broke free from the differential. I was really relieved as the pry bar method seemed to be a chore.

My problem is, now I’ve got a partially dislodged new 1/2 shaft. It seems I can’t get the c clip to seat into the differential. If anyone has any ideas without me taking the entire hub assembly apart again, I’m all ears...

Access is pretty tight but I can reach the sleeve and boot on the middle of the shaft, just have no leverage to get it seated.


View attachment 8812

Ok, so with a little bit of thinking, I realized if the slide hammer helped me get the axle off, certainly it could also help me refit. I made sure all was lined up (the splines mesh prior to the c clip). My biggest fear was tearing the boot, but decided to chance it. With the slide hammer under the vehicle, oriented towards the other side of the car and the hook like attachment, I gave it a couple whacks and it was refitted.

Interestingly, I checked the diff fluid level and it was all topped up! I’m thinking that the length of the passenger side axle helped me out here.

So, this brings me to my dilemma...still have the vibration- all my troubles where for naught!

I’m pretty certain the vibration is from the front right wheel well. It’s driving me nuts!

Only two things left on the list are CA bushings on the upper arm or the bearings. I’m going to take a stab at upper CA bushings to see if that’s it. Bearings are next if this doesn’t solve it.

 

[maxx4wd]

did you check for play in your upper ball joint? mine is loose as all get out right now (but not to the point it's clicking or clunking so not I'm going to replace it just yet but I know it's coming) other than that maybe one of the bushings (sway bar, or even diff housing bushes).

just another silly thought...have you tried rotating tires and see if the vibration follows? maybe its a wheel balance issue or a bent rim...probably not but worth the 5 minutes...

 

[scott schmerge]

Good thoughts. Upper ball joint seems firm. Had not thought of diff housing bushes and sway bars. I’ve ruled out rotation. That was first thing I did. Vibration is much slower in speed than tire spin. Shudder under load. And vibration at high speed. I’m pretty certain that it’s not transmission related but I could be wrong.

 

[scott schmerge]

Only a couple minor things...looks about right though. 1. You may want to drain the diff fluid as capture it so you can put back what drains out when taking out the half shaft (if you drain ahead of time you don't need to guess how much came out) 2. Not sure why the diff seal would come off with the half shaft but I'd replace that with a new one while you're in there...they're like 10 bucks and oh buy 2 just in case you mar it when seating it...it's alot easier to mar then you'd think. Other than that I've noticed that the new half shafts have a larger 32mm locking nut so just make sure you have a socket that'll fit both the locking nut your taking off and the new one. Like the slide hammer approach - do you have the youtube link for that...just trying to picture how they got on in there and how that works...also might want to replace the bearing while your at it since your over 100k...just so you don't have to do it later and redo the front alignment again. check your steering tie rods and tie rod ends for play since you'll be in there...they tend to go quickly on our heavy trucks too. But other than that it sounds like youve got it covered... (how did the pan removal and fluid change go...I've had my parts for over 8 months and I'm dreading doing it...)

The above link is for the slide hammer approach. This is where I got the idea. His was on LR3 but they are virtually identical. I’d go this route again if I had to do the other side.

By the time I’ve isolated the problem I’ll almost have a new front end...I’m now back to thinking it’s bearings (but there’s no play in the wheel). My issue actually has worstened with the new axle so I’m guessing I’m close to the cause. New upper control arm bushings, CA ball joints, and new hub assemblies going in this weekend as well. Fingers crossed. Will update when I get to the bottom of it!

 

[scott schmerge]

Finally figured out my issue after throwing a ton of parts at it! It was the wheel bearing. Although no play in the bearing, once I put the new one on and drove it, that was the problem. Tell tale sign, the brake pad was unevenly worn on the inside pad on disassembly. Wish I had noticed that upon doing the 1/2 shaft...

Now I have a charging fault! Parts Whack a mole with this truck continues

 

[maxx4wd]

Finally figured out my issue after throwing a ton of parts at it! It was the wheel bearing. Although no play in the bearing, once I put the new one on and drove it, that was the problem. Tell tale sign, the brake pad was unevenly worn on the inside pad on disassembly. Wish I had noticed that upon doing the 1/2 shaft...

Now I have a charging fault! Parts Whack a mole with this truck continues

nice job finding and fixing the original issue...good to know and I'll be sure to pay attention the next time I have a similar issue...good luck with the voltage problem...try testing that alternator (I was having a similar drop - then the dash lights went nuts and it was downhill from there...turned out the alternator was on its way out - simple test and fairly straight forward removal and re-install - our trucks are known to go throw them quickly...I went with the autozone platimum gold whatever as it was a free lifetime warrenty that I'm positive I'll need again ;P - good luck !)

 

[scott schmerge]

nice job finding and fixing the original issue...good to know and I'll be sure to pay attention the next time I have a similar issue...good luck with the voltage problem...try testing that alternator (I was having a similar drop - then the dash lights went nuts and it was downhill from there...turned out the alternator was on its way out - simple test and fairly straight forward removal and re-install - our trucks are known to go throw them quickly...I went with the autozone platimum gold whatever as it was a free lifetime warrenty that I'm positive I'll need again ;P - good luck !)

Haha. Thanks. Yes, this is my 7th rover and low voltage always makes these trucks go crazy! I had it tested at autozone and alternator is putting out low voltage (11.7 V). Ordered oem online- stealership wanted $900. Good call on the lifetime warranty at autozone! I’m sure I’ll live to regret my inferior warranty.

Driving this am, noted very minor intermittent rumbles from the drivers side, probably overshadowed by the right side bearing, so went ahead and ordered the other bearing also (117k on the clock so it’s time). Hopefully these are the last parts I have to throw at it for a little while.