Replacing the Rear Differential Control Module

[dochummer]

Sorry about that. I just looked at my thread title and you're right. My bad. What I replaced was the rear differential actuator that sits on top of the diff. That's what the dealership recommended and I had confirmed the part number with them (LR011036). I don't think I knew that there was a "module" at the time I posted this thread...

Is it possible to change the title of the thread?

 

[Trynian]

Sorry about that. I just looked at my thread title and you're right. My bad. What I replaced was the rear differential actuator that sits on top of the diff. That's what the dealership recommended and I had confirmed the part number with them (LR011036). I don't think I knew that there was a "module" at the time I posted this thread...

Is it possible to change the title of the thread?

No worries, just wanted to make sure I was clear.

Only thing to do now is get to a LR shop and have it scanned.

 

[dochummer]

No worries, just wanted to make sure I was clear.

Only thing to do now is get to a LR shop and have it scanned.

I can take it to my local mechanic who should be able to clear the codes, but if there is still a problem, he probably won't be able to help or I would/should pay him for additional time.

I have been looking into getting my own diagnostic equipment (the last trip to the dealership cost me about $85 in gas and $140 for the Dx, +10 hours of my life ) I'm leaning towards the IIDTool which should allow me to clear the differential fault and read faults from any of the systems for about $400. Anyone have any experience with it?

 

[dochummer]

Ok, I don't remember what the vehicle sounded like before putting the new Diff Actuator in, but when I turn the ignition to on or off I hear a buzzing sound coming from the rear axle area. Is this normal operation of the actuator? Or is this not normal, ie I should not hear any buzzing from anywhere other than the compressor occasionally...?

 

[Houm_WA]

I have the GAP IIDTool but have not really had to use it yet (knock wood). It seems simple enough; I cleared a latent fault that was not producing any messages, but....that's about it.

FWIW, I don't think the buzzing is normal.

 

[Trynian]

Ok, I don't remember what the vehicle sounded like before putting the new Diff Actuator in, but when I turn the ignition to on or off I hear a buzzing sound coming from the rear axle area. Is this normal operation of the actuator? Or is this not normal, ie I should not hear any buzzing from anywhere other than the compressor occasionally...?

No should not hear any buzzing. Sounds like something is not right. Normally you should be able to hear the diff activate on power up as it goes through the power on self test. That only lasts about a second. I do not hear anything when I shut it off.

 

[dochummer]

No should not hear any buzzing. Sounds like something is not right. Normally you should be able to hear the diff activate on power up as it goes through the power on self test. That only lasts about a second. I do not hear anything when I shut it off.

Thanks, I'll get back under there and check the bolt torque to make sure they're not too tight. The only thing I can think is maybe the tolerance is really narrow and I inadvertently tightened it down too much. Will check it tonight or tomorrow.... Otherwise, I'm thinking it may be a bad part that they sent to me... arghh.....

To double check- the transmission fault should clear with a hard battery disconnect right?

 

[dochummer]

Got it! Works fine now. I loosened the bolts and then tightened them by hand only, then turned the ignition to on and off a few times. The first time, it reproduced the buzz sound again and stuttered, then it didn't do it anymore. I crawled underneath and re-checked the bolts and they were all really loose so I hand tightened them again and the turned the ignition to on/off a few more times. Did this pattern a couple of more times, with every time re-tightening. The last two times I tightened with a small socket wrench to where they were snug, checked it with the ignition and everything is working fine. My only concern now is my original seal. Some gear oil did seep out with the initial tries. Doesn't appear to be anymore coming out. I'll check it again in a few days. I'm thinking it should be fine? Any opinions?

Additionally, no more transmission fault. Everything appears fine. I'll do the hard battery clear in a few days as long as the actuator looks fine.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[Trynian]

Cool, 7 lbs is not very much so you must have found the problem. Glad it was sorted out.

 

[tlt]

There should be no buzzing. I assume this is a used stepper motor. Can I get some history into your problems and why or how you came to the conclusion to change it?

Torque specifications are important, I am glad you got it sorted.