Tailgate will not open

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bbyer

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Liftgate Manual Release mod

This mod is part is an attempt to solve the Liftgate will not open problem before it becomes one. This mod allows manual release of the latch located in the lower half of the rear hatch so that the upper hatch will release. The assumption is that the lower electrics still work so that the lower door can then be opened as usual.

I found that removal of the carpeted cover from the Liftgate, while easy, was still a bit of a chore even when working under perfect conditions – nice weather, lots of time, and fixing a problem before it was one.

Per the pictures link below, (pictues woud not fit in post), in brief, what I did was clamp a length of wire rope fishing leader to the existing pull cable and then run the release cable thru up the carpeted cover.

I used a #0 lead fishing weight as the clamp as I could not find anything more suitable. The lead weight is not the best, as the lead is very soft and really does not hold that well, but again, one is not yanking on the release daily. My first attempt was with a smaller #00 weight, but that worked even less well. The picture shows my first attempt with the #00 weight by the way.

As far as tools, one needs a Torx T15 screwdriver and an 8 mm socket, some pliers to squeeze the weight; also side cutters to cut the 0.032” wire rope fishing leader and a 13mm wrench to remove the ball sockets that anchor the retractable cables to the ends of the lower door.

When you remove the carpeted cover, (it just sort of lift/pulls off – held on by round plastic clips – start at the bottom, (the hinge end) as that seems to work the best). You will first have to remove the “balls” , (13 mm wrench), that retain the retractable cables that carry the lift gate so have a winter coat or the like to support / place between the bumper and the painted surface of the Liftgate.

Once the carpet cover is removed, you will have to cut what I call a dust cover – sort of thick plastic sticky poly). It turns out that a multi-conductor power cable that runs the latch setup is stuck to the underside of the poly – hence when you cut the plastic, if you are not careful, you will also cut a few of the about 6 conductors just under the plastic.

With the poly cut, you will see a gold box thing – the actuator is within. The box is held to the door by two 8mm cap screws in a slot – you just loosen the cap screws and sort of work the box back towards the speaker and then out. Then you undo the two T15 Torx screws and remove the gold metal cover and inside is the release mechanism.

Re the release cable, I drilled a very small hole in the carpet and pushed the 0.032" diameter release wire thru and then slipped the loose end under the black plastic. To release with the liftgate etc closed, from the inside, just pull the loose end free from under the black plastic and gently pull about ¼ inch (5mm), and the upper door catch should release. The assumption is that the lower door electric latch is still working and that then the lower door can also be opened.


http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155
 

nova lr3

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I didn't make it in to the delaer to *****, but will get to it - this is utterly ridiculous. Do the newer ones still lack a manual over-ride?
 

bbyer

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Dealer will suggest you purchase an LR4.

No the LR4 does not have a manual override, however as I understand it, about 2008, Land Rover improved the mechanism such that failure is much less certain - at least within the warrenty period.

The problem was noticed by LR to the extent that they thought someone should do something as it was costing LR real money.

Apparently the part that was breaking was a plastic L on the end of the cable that connected the cable to the solenoid. The plastic shaped L was replaced with a metal L. That is why in my mod, I clamped my release cable to the existing cable rather than to the solenoid puller as when the L breaks, the solenoid continues to actuate, (the clicking sound), but there is no pulling action on the release cable any longer.

As to how much more reliable the newer design is, I do not know. It however appears that most of the posts we see are coming from early 3 owners.
 

ChesapeakeRover

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No the LR4 does not have a manual override, however as I understand it, about 2008, Land Rover improved the mechanism such that failure is much less certain - at least within the warrenty period.

The problem was noticed by LR to the extent that they thought someone should do something as it was costing LR real money.

Apparently the part that was breaking was a plastic L on the end of the cable that connected the cable to the solenoid. The plastic shaped L was replaced with a metal L. That is why in my mod, I clamped my release cable to the existing cable rather than to the solenoid puller as when the L breaks, the solenoid continues to actuate, (the clicking sound), but there is no pulling action on the release cable any longer.

As to how much more reliable the newer design is, I do not know. It however appears that most of the posts we see are coming from early 3 owners.

For the record it happened on my MY 08' a couple weeks ago @ 23K miles but luckily it was covered under warranty. So they obviously hadn't figured out the problem for the later models.
 

nova lr3

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I have an '06, but looks like it's still happening as mentioned above. Ridiculous.
 

Houm_WA

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I have an '05 and this hasn't happened yet (knock on wood). I wonder what the cause is and just how man vehicles are affected.
 

toddjb122

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For me it happened every 30,000 miles like clockwork. Obviously depends how much you use that lift gate I suppose. I use it a lot.
 

bbyer

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Must have the latest actuator then?

Am I too assume that you probably now have the Land Rover's latest actuator in there?

If so, this does not sound too encouraging for the LR4 people. Also it sounds like the 2008 model years actuator cables are not the best either so maybe the fix it not yet.

I thought the newer replacement actuators with the metal L were the solution - sounds like a no.
 

BlackRover

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Just did this job today...thanks all the info guys. I used this doc http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2318

Made an emergency latch using picture frame wire 45lb. Did not ruin any of the trim pieces, and completed the work in under 2 hrs. The only problem I came across was the end of the wire seemed to have broken off, so I had to make a mod to etend the wire into the actuator clamp. Used zip ties to clamp it into place. Hopefully this will never break again, but if it does thank God for the emergency latch!
 

Frank_ws6

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I just had this fixed today at the dealership. I was afraid of the price but after some responses in this thread I think the $300 I paid including a car wash and being driven home and then picked up was quite reasonable. It's just annoying that this is a definite design flaw and there should be some kind of interior manual latch because had this happened while I was away with the family on a road trip nothing short of coming to find me and fixing the problem on the spot would have been reasonable!
 

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