the science of ****** straps

[roverman]

Just bought a elastic Warn ****** strap. It's my first and will primarily see service pulling people out of ditches on snow days, and occassionally for mud recovery. I bought a 3/4" shackle which is good for 10000lbs. The strap has a 17,500 lb break strength and has loops at both ends. So my questions are:

On one end, can i just hook the shackle up to my tow rings or do I need a shackle bracket that plugs into the hitch receiver?

On the other end do I just get a shackle and a hook to recover vehicles without tow points?

Is my shackle going to be strong enough for the strap so as not to break and become a missle that will embed in my skull? I got the heaviest duty one I could find. Should I even use a shackle or just get hooks for both ends?

How fast do you go when pulling, just a few mph? I know that pulling a 5000 lb truck should only put 5000lbs of stress on the strap, until you figure in the accelaration part into it. I also know that if I pull out a light car, it might not be heavy enough to stretch the strap and therefore become a 'yank' strap that could damage the vehicle. I just don't know how to figure all that out.

Thanks for any insight and help.

 

[richpike]

When I bought mine, I read this really good overview here:

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Tow_Straps.htm

One of the best pieces of advice I felt they gave was to put a blanket or jacket over the recovery strap so if it should break that will help create some resistance to it snapping back through your rear window (or the windshield of the car you are snatching!).

Another thing to keep in mind - although the car you are pulling out may only way 5000lbs, you are having to overcome whatever has made them stuck too. So there is a great deal of additional force that must be applied to the strap (and shackles, etc if you choose to use them) that you have to take in to consideration.

Unfortunately (fortunately??? ) I haven't had a chance to use mine yet, so I can't give you any real world experience. But I'm sure some people on here can add additional (more helpful ) thoughts!

-Rich

 

[roverman]

Thanks Rich for the article. Looks like the way to do it on a vehicle without a recovery hook is to loop the strap through itself and back to my vehicle. Still have to check into the D ring to tow point idea, but that's what I'm thinking now. I've heard of the heavy mat on the strap idea, in fact they sell them at Atlantic british. It's probably worthwhile.
Thanks for the reply!

 

[nwoods]

You should have a few 3/4" 16,000 lbs (8T) shackles in your LR3 and a 3" x 30,000 lbs recovery strap for something as heavy as the LR3.

Generally, for most Stucks, a slow steady pull will extricate whoever is stuck, but if it's in deep sand or mud, you have to use the kinetic element of the snap strap, and shock load it. it's a bit of touch to determine how much is enough gas to snap someone free from the clutches of mud, but it is quickly learned once you have to try it.


I highly recommend Bill Burke's "Getting Unstuck" DVD.

 

[davez26]

On one end, can i just hook the shackle up to my tow rings or do I need a shackle bracket that plugs into the hitch receiver?

Skip the shackle bracket, both rings on the car are plenty durable.

Great article, and great advice by all. If I can offer any advice, and I am just as guilty as any, keep people away when pulling, line covered or not. (Nathan, I'm not trying to beat down your photo), There is no sound like that of a strap giving up during a pull, and I'm sure no feeling like it either, if you get my meaning. At the same time one or more of the vehicles may be throwing rocks, and when the stuck one gets the traction, he can get a little out of control. Everybody always want to congregate during a pull, but do what you can to maintain a safety zone.

Now, lets all go wheelin'!

 

[roverman]

Dave, If I skip the shackle, how do I attach the looped rope through the ring? I get how to do it on one end, threading the strap through the loop, but how on the other?
I've been reading up on it and the safety zone sounds like it is the distance of the strap in EVERY direction. Also, putting the hood up is an excellent idea.
Also, those tow rings don't look nearly as strong as even the 4 3/4 ton shackle I have...

 

[nwoods]

The tow rings on the LR3 are part of the frame, they are hella strong. But you need a shackle to connect to them or else you are going to have to double up your strap by folding it in half and running it through. IMHO, this is not a good solution, the specifically made eye of the strap is going to hold up the truck end far better than the middle of the web.

Also, I think the origional question was suggesting that one of the trucks he would attach to did not have a recovery point like the LR3. For that reason, I think the shackle is more useful and flexible for connecting things.

As for this particular hill, no way to do it with the hood up, it's far to difficult a hill and requires significant driver imput because of all the trashcan sized boulders and the trail zigs and zags it's way through them. it's a tough pull. Fortunately, on our second trip, I was able to get all the LR3's and RRS's up it on their own power.

 

[davez26]

Sorry I was confusing, it is early. You asked about a shackle bracket that plugs into the hitch receiver. Like you said, I would just use the shackle to the loop in the bumper, or front end and strap to that. Skip the receiver adapter.
While running the strap through it self @ one end is easy,I try to avoid it. I tend to use a shackle on both ends if possible. When you run the strap through itself, it gets pretty tight during the recovery, and sometimes near impossible to undo, and usually it is all mucky, etc.
I like to use the radius of the strap + a little as a safety zone. Hood up is good, if practical, and usually it isn't, but good to consider. At the same time, the driver needs to consider the possibility of the strap coming forward and the consequences of a sudden no-load situation. The situation dictates everything.
I have yet to hear of either of the tow loops on the LR3's giving up. The rear is cast, while the front one goes back aways and is entirely welded to the front crossmember.
I got tired of pulling of the panel in the front in the snow, so I cut a square opeining just big enough fit the shackle. Of course, you could just leave it off.
I keep all my recovery stuff (and you will collect more) in an army surplus rucksack, and stuff it behind the second row. The rucksack works good to keep it all together, it is heavy duty, you can strap it to something to keep it from getting loose in rough terrain, and if some guy 4 cars up needs help, you can put one arm through a strap to carry it all.

 

[toddjb122]

The most likely place I would use my tow strap is to pull someone out of sand or snow. In these cases, the person who was stuck was usually not expecting to be and is likely not prepared in any way for a pull out. So, I am left with a powerful LR3, a tow strap, but always a little unsure where to attach it to the other car.

What are some suggestions?

Barring an obvious tow hook on the frame or hitch, what are my other options?

Thanks!

 

[AdvRide]

Last year while up in the NM mountains a Toyota Camry slid off the road from a recent heavy snow so I offered my assistance. I used my tow strap rather than a ****** strap. Had to wrap the strap around the front portion of the frame. Very tight fit but it beat pulling him out by the steering control arms.

When there are no true recovery points I wrap around the frame.