Timing Chain tensioning issue

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Tapps33

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Hello all!

So, I've got another head scratcher. I've just finished my timing chain job, (2010 LR4 5.0) and I've run into an issue with my bank 1 (passenger's side, US model) timing chain. Long story short, I can't seem to get it to keep tension. When I set all my cam variation pre tension, the chain is tight like it's supposed to be. However, when I release the cam lock, the exhaust cam turns a little to release all the tension, then I have a TON of chain slop. Since I have already put everything back together, I'm trying VERY hard not to have to pull it all apart again, but I'm getting very close to that point. My fear is that the brand new tensioner I installed isn't functioning properly and isn't maintaining the "slack tension" on the chain. I pulled the valve cover and passenger side timing cover back off, all timing marks are correct, it's just the slop. Since the tensioners are spring loaded hydraulic, I wonder if there's something. in the oil supply line?

FYI, as I have been test driving it a little, I noticed that its throttle response is sluggish, and it take's it a little bit of struggling to start. It does middle quietly and smoothly though. That said, I didn't drive it much, and tore it back down. (insert sigh here.).

Has anyone run into this before? I've done a few of these year model rover chain sets and never had problem...this time is different though. (I'll post a video shortly)

oh yeah, I did loosen the tensioner rail bolt to see if perhaps the rail was jammed....it is not. (SMH)
 

Tapps33

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Video for reference here….couldn’t post it directly, have to post it to YouTube and link it. I’m sure there’s a better way, I just don’t know it yet.

 

Rover Range

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With the cams locked.
The three bolts that hold the cam sprockets on should be loose.
The intake sprocket should be rotated clockwise to take up the slack in the chain between the two sprockets.
Then pull the grenade pin on the tensioner.
Tighten sprocket bolts.
 

Tapps33

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Granted I've only done this to 3 other engines, but that's exactly the opposite of the direction the workshop manual tells you to pull from? I haven't had this problem before, and I've always done it to spec via the manual. All that is to say I'm kinda at my wits end, coming off a head gasket replacement on my other LR4 that turned out to be a cracked block....I need a win!!! I'm totally open to suggestions.

I should also tell you I do have the crank locks in.

I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my tensioner....I just can't help but think it's not putting enough pressure on the "slack" side of the chain to hold the exhaust cam in place....cause I don't have any issues with the bank 1 chain.
 

Tapps33

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Here’s another video showing a little bit of pressure under the tensioner rail:


As you can see, it doesn’t take much to get everything nice and tight…

Sigh…looks like I’m pulling the front apart again. Now, I’m going to try and do this without disconnecting the cooling system….more importantly, without removing the radiator! I swear that’s the worst part of the whole process!!!!
 

Rover Range

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Occasionally, with everything together, you have to push down on the chain tensioner you guide to pop the tensioner.
 

Tapps33

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Fingers crossed! I’m wondering if I can reach down in there with something and pop it without removing the lower cover.

Thanks for the tip!!!!!
 

Tapps33

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well, I've been prying on it a little, and there's a little bit of spring/give, but it never tensions up fully. I'm going to pull the lower cover tomorrow and see what I can see. It doesn't help that it's raining here and my truck is outside. I'll try and mess with it a little more, but I'm thinking either the rail or the tensioner is stuck/binding somewhere. (SMH).

That said, aren't the tensioners mechanically and hydraulically (via an oil channel) actuated?
 
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Rover Range

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The tensioner is hydraulically activated with the engine running.
There is also an internal spring that keeps tension on the guide.
 

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