Timing Chain tensioning issue

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Tapps33

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That's what I thought, just double checking my knowledge at this point. It must be a blocked oil gallery or something. I'm going to swap the rail and tensioner and see how it does. fingers crossed that addresses the issue!
 

Rover Range

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Not a blocked oil gallery.
With the engine off, the chain should still be tight.

Take the old tensioner and squeeze it together in a vice. Should have some resistance.
 

Tapps33

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I installed the new tensioner and rail and the chain is super tight. I cranked the engine over from TDC to TDC. Although admittedly, right at TDC, I get a little slack between the 2 CVT’s as it appears the Bank 1 exhaust cam wants to rotate a little more than than the tensioner, using the spring only, can hold. I think the existing tensioner had some sort of bur/imperfection on the piston because when I tried to push and release it, it was “gritty” and didn’t operate smoothly. I would assume that when hydraulic pressure is applied to the tensioner, any and all slack will be non-existent.

I’ll have the rest of the engine back together this morning and will fire it up and see how she does!

Thanks for the continued help, I appreciate the mental backup! After basically rebuilding my other engine to only find it had a cracked block, to finding an issue with the timing chains on this one, I sorta felt like I was losing my touch!

I’m just happy it wasn’t something stupid that I did, like I was off a tooth or something and didn’t catch it!
 

Tapps33

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Quick follow up to show what the problem was:

IMG_8622.jpeg


As you can see, the piston isn’t fully extended. Only about 1/2 way actually. When installed, it looked good because it made contact with the tensioner rail. Upon removal however…. FYI, I banged it, grabbed it, twisted it, but the piston is staying put. It definitely feels like something got in between the two cylinders and jammed it up. (Yes, it was brand new, OE, not aftermarket.)

I will say this, the LR service manual specifically states you need to release the tensioners, then compress them back and re-insert the grenade pin. I guess this is why!

Lesson learned!
 

Longtrail

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Can you comment on roughly how long it takes to do this job (chain replacement)? I have it on my radar for the fall!
 

Tapps33

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Actual work time…probably 15-16 hours. That said, it took me a week and a half or so because I had to order parts. The hardest part is the driver’s side valve cover bolts and radiator removal. That said, now that I know where all the bolts/pins are for the radiator, it’s not nearly as bad as the first couple of times I did it. Wobble gears and some creative extensions are your friend when it comes to the valve cover. Plus, the 12V Milwaukee ratchet that can fit in some tight spaces helped A LOT! (Mainly for all the bolts behind the cylinder heads, and the bolts holding the HVAC eval core to the radiator. FYI, unlike some others, I did not disconnect my HVAC condenser core. My system works great and I didn’t feel like going in and replacing all the seals/drier, and recharging. There’s still plenty of room to get everything done with it still in there.

Try and order as much as you can ahead of time. I chose to replace just about as much as I could as I won’t do this again for another 200K miles. I bought the following: Timing kit, CVT gears(if you want to ), front and rear crossover tubes, water pump, thermostat and hoses, new crank bolt, spark plugs, coils (optional), injectors (also optional), gasket sealant, ungraded metal water pump to oil cooler connector, upgraded water pump to thermostat mini tube elbow (both metal tube upgrades were bought via Amazon.)
I also ended up needing a new bank 1, intake CVT solenoid and now it appears a cam pos sensor as well. (Although I’m not convinced I don’t have a short in my wiring harness.)

I had to wait for a little bit because the “complete” hose kit I got from AB didn’t actually have every hose…mainly the thermostat to engine and water pump hoses. Plus, I goofed and ordered the “non-rear climate” hose kit. Once I got that all straightened out, I was off to the races.

Make sure you get the toolkit to lock everything up. Also, buy it from Amazon, it’s cheaper and just as good. I broke the tooth off my cam tensioner tool, and had to buy an entire kit just to get that. (This was another delay) But it was only like $150 vs. $350 from AB.

One little trick I learned, when installing the crank lock underneath the vehicle, you can use a 24mm socket and breaker bar from underneath the vehicle to wiggle the crank back and forth to get it “just right” so the lock will seat. The first couple of times I did it, I kept getting up and trying to turn the crank slightly, then crawled back under the truck….it was exhausting….then I figured I could fiddle with the lock in one hand and the breaker bar in the other! Now it’s pretty quick.

All in all, just take your time and remove whatever you need to remove.

Oh yeah, one other tool I forgot to mention was a vacuum coolant charging system. I got the Air Lift kit, but there are a lot out there to choose from. Thankfully they all work off an air compressor and form what I can gather, even relatively small compressors can get the job done. Given all the issues we have trying to get the coolant system bled, these systems simply put a vacuum on it and let pressure do the rest! You don’t have to worry about whether or not you have air bubbles anymore. (Although I still do….cause I’m paranoid like that.).

Hope this helps a little!
 

Tapps33

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Good info.

Why did you remove the radiator?
Because there's just not enough room to get the crank pulley removal tool in with the radiator in there. Plus, it's just a little safer to pull it out, cause if you're clumsy like me, you'll hit it a lot, then spend hours trying to get the fins straightened out! LOL!

That said, if someone else knows has a solution, I'd love to hear it!
 

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