Jrkramer76
Active Member
Rolling them on my 2012 and the truck works perfectly
Wheels and Tires?
- Thread starter msdavenport87
- Start date
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Jrkramer76
Active Member
msdavenport87
Member
Murdered-out! Looking good!
Round it out with some black door handle covers; I have a set, but haven’t installed them yet. I also recently replaced my side marker lights with a pair of smoked lensed ones with LEDs, which would also look good on yours.
Jrkramer76
Active Member
I like those ideas
msdavenport87
Member
So back to the topic at hand, it appears the most popular tire size for LR4s is 265/65/18. Please confirm or dispell.
taloneldefender
New Member
MY2010 LR4. After doing a lot or research I went with the Black Rino 18" Warlords. The lift was set using Gap Diagnostics IID Tool that was purchased from Lucky 8. The tires are BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A K02 275/65-18. We have put over 50K miles taking trips, towing and going off roading with no issues. So far we are on our second set of tires.
When first test fitting the wheel, it would hit the fin on the top of the caliper. For peace of mind, I bought a used front caliper off eBay and cut it in half long ways across the fin. The fins were solid, and I decided to grind them off to allow the wheel to fit. No more than 3.0mm was removed on the fronts and 2.0mm on the rear. At this point the wheels fit and did not hit any part of the caliper. The wheel weights do have to be placed as close to inside or outside edge as possible to clear the caliper. I used Toyota style Lug nuts with extra length on the shank. It has been a while, but I believe the thread were M14x1.5 which require a minimum of 9.5 turn thread engagement. Because of the 275/65-18 being a larger tire, the frame horn had to be shortened and re-boxed. This LR4 came with the factory rear electric locker. This option came with a full size spare in place of a donut spare. It is a tight fit and the air has to be removed from the tire, but the spare 275/65-18 will fit underneath. The research took time but the process was easy. This may not be for everyone but it has worked for our set up and opened up wheel options.
When first test fitting the wheel, it would hit the fin on the top of the caliper. For peace of mind, I bought a used front caliper off eBay and cut it in half long ways across the fin. The fins were solid, and I decided to grind them off to allow the wheel to fit. No more than 3.0mm was removed on the fronts and 2.0mm on the rear. At this point the wheels fit and did not hit any part of the caliper. The wheel weights do have to be placed as close to inside or outside edge as possible to clear the caliper. I used Toyota style Lug nuts with extra length on the shank. It has been a while, but I believe the thread were M14x1.5 which require a minimum of 9.5 turn thread engagement. Because of the 275/65-18 being a larger tire, the frame horn had to be shortened and re-boxed. This LR4 came with the factory rear electric locker. This option came with a full size spare in place of a donut spare. It is a tight fit and the air has to be removed from the tire, but the spare 275/65-18 will fit underneath. The research took time but the process was easy. This may not be for everyone but it has worked for our set up and opened up wheel options.
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LVDaytripper
Well-Known Member
Although I drive the 3, I use the 18" 10 spoke original LR alloys which I believe can still fit the '10-'12 LR4 with the standard brake rotors and calipers. Tires are 265/65/18 with no spacers BUT I have the lift rods. I like em but then again, it's just me, to each his own.
mgkonopka
Member
Is there any reason (other than “cool factor”) that nobody goes with LR3 18” wheels. I put a set on my 2008 LR3 HSE and they are working out just fine. Much cheaper I might add!
The LR3 wheels require spacers to fit the LR4.
Compomotive are not steelies and they don't need spacers.
Yes, I meant the steel wheels from the new Defender.
The jury is only out on lift rods for people who don't know what they are talking about. The only tenable case for lift rods is if you are also planning on running the Lucky8 SYA kit.
Lift rods are for looks only. They don't help you run any larger tire. They don't help you if for some reason your suspension goes into fault mode and drops you to your bumpstops.
What they do do is keep your suspension components and CV joints at more extreme angles, raise your center of gravity, and rob your suspension of downtravel. Why not just keep it stock and raise it higher only when needed?
