The system I used in the past bypassed the need for storage, other than as a cold-water tank. So pump pulled from that tank (or river, or whatever), then went to a Y valve where one fork went through the heat exchanger and one was a direct (cold water) bypass, then they combined again after the exchanger. It worked fine. BUT it was nowhere near the amount of surface area this thing has, so more often than not the bypass part was shut off altogether.
Where to tap coolant for a shower heat exchanger?
- Thread starter greiswig
- Start date
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99grahamcracker
Member
Pro tip: Q total = 500*gpm* temp diff for straight water. With 50/50 coolant the specific heat content of the brine is less efficient. Have to obtain the specific heat content and apply to the formula to get accurate if you got HVAC groupies to impress.
Engineering- wise, the pipe going into the radiator is best, that way the radiator can dump the residual btu’s if needed. If you have an electric circ pump on your heat exchanger, take the Supply upstream of the heat exchanger ‘s return just downstream of the same point of connection to the radiator pipe. This creates a hydraulically discoupled cross-flow piping arrangement. The crossover pipe is short, don’t worry about mixing. It is common piping practice in commercial boiler & chiller plants. Cycle the shower circuit as needed. If 12v maybe a rheostat to control domestic water discharge temp.
The logistics of all this is yours to decode, but thats the schematic I suggest to not influence the car’s system while allowing best heat exchange of yours.
Engineering- wise, the pipe going into the radiator is best, that way the radiator can dump the residual btu’s if needed. If you have an electric circ pump on your heat exchanger, take the Supply upstream of the heat exchanger ‘s return just downstream of the same point of connection to the radiator pipe. This creates a hydraulically discoupled cross-flow piping arrangement. The crossover pipe is short, don’t worry about mixing. It is common piping practice in commercial boiler & chiller plants. Cycle the shower circuit as needed. If 12v maybe a rheostat to control domestic water discharge temp.
The logistics of all this is yours to decode, but thats the schematic I suggest to not influence the car’s system while allowing best heat exchange of yours.
Glad you posted this! I too like showers and like when my family takes showers while camping. I've been thinking about how a hydronic water heater works. I have an EarthRoamer with a Hydronic water heater that supplies the shower and sink. Just replaced the engine so I have a bit of a better idea of how it works now. When I need hot water in the sink or shower I have a valve/ mixer like in your house that adds cold water to get the temp I want. There is an electric pump that I have to switch on that feeds water pressure to a decent psi.
Ive been thinking about how to do this with the LR3. I was thinking of having a water tank like what the Long Ranger uses for fuel (but water) in the old spare tire area underneath the back and have valves fitted in/ under or near the back bumper. The hydronic water heater on the EarthRoamer goes through the block for the F-450 6.0 Power ****** block. I don't understand it well enough to be able to copy it to the LR3 nor do I have the time to do it but would like to find someone that does and drop off the LR3 to get a hydronic water heater system.
So once someone figures this out... Please hit me up cause I want it!
Ive been thinking about how to do this with the LR3. I was thinking of having a water tank like what the Long Ranger uses for fuel (but water) in the old spare tire area underneath the back and have valves fitted in/ under or near the back bumper. The hydronic water heater on the EarthRoamer goes through the block for the F-450 6.0 Power ****** block. I don't understand it well enough to be able to copy it to the LR3 nor do I have the time to do it but would like to find someone that does and drop off the LR3 to get a hydronic water heater system.
So once someone figures this out... Please hit me up cause I want it!
LOL...believe me, I wasn't trying to impress. Just get in the ballpark of what kind of heating I might expect.
This is exactly the kind of thing I was hoping for when I posted...that there would be some people out there with engineering knowledge who could chime in. It sounds like you may have the pertinent knowledge, so thank you.
I'm not really following your description, though. If I understand it right, you're suggesting that I use two electric pumps: one for the shower water and one for the coolant? Would it be possible to get a sketch of what you're trying to describe?
I was hoping to avoid that second pump and just take advantage of the flow caused by the engine-driven pump, though.
Here's an interesting idea... What if you have a permanent water holding tank, water pump to circulate, temp controller, and a self-priming pump. Let's just say the holding tank is in the oem spare location.
On the holding tank side of the heat exchanger, add a 12v water pump that's controlled by an automated 12v temperature controller with an ON/OFF switch in the cabin to circulate the holding tank water to temp. While you're driving to camp, hit the switch, the pump circulates water from the holding tank through the heat exchanger to get it to temp, temp is set to turn off the pump when it reaches a preset temp, and have a separate 12v self-priming pump connected to the holding tank for your shower head.
Just throwing some random ideas out there.
On the holding tank side of the heat exchanger, add a 12v water pump that's controlled by an automated 12v temperature controller with an ON/OFF switch in the cabin to circulate the holding tank water to temp. While you're driving to camp, hit the switch, the pump circulates water from the holding tank through the heat exchanger to get it to temp, temp is set to turn off the pump when it reaches a preset temp, and have a separate 12v self-priming pump connected to the holding tank for your shower head.
Just throwing some random ideas out there.
Good idea for most, especially if you don't have a very efficient heat exchanger. In my case, I have fuel storage under there, with a skid plate over it. And this heat exchanger seems to be VERY efficient.
Michael Gain
Full Access Member
I am also a fan of running your exchanger inline with the rear heater coolant lines. Look in the passenger side frame rail, about underneath the rear passenger door. There is a section of rubber hose that couples the two metal hard pipes. If I remember right, there may be enough room to tuck this exchanger under there as well; and give you external access to your plumbing. It should be protected enough from trail incidents as well.
Can't help you with thermodynamics and changing the temp though. I would assume that the temp inside is just diluting the hot air produced from the heater--the coolant temp would remain unchanged..
Can't help you with thermodynamics and changing the temp though. I would assume that the temp inside is just diluting the hot air produced from the heater--the coolant temp would remain unchanged..
Michael Gain
Full Access Member
I would say only with heat is selected. Only because coolant bleeding procedure requires you to blast the rear heat as well as the front.
I could be wrong though. Brain is slowly waking up
That’s what I’d expect, too. It’s the way other heating systems I’ve seen have worked.
