Front Control Arm Replacement

[quirozson]

Hola, I'm in the middle of a grueling control arm replacement. I've been wrestling with the bolts for hours and finally cut them off. After that I spent a few hours trying to remove bushings. The front -forward bushing would not budge using a 12ton shop press.

Anyway, getting ready to install new arms, and forgot to get hub to fender measurements. Does anyone have the normal ride height specs? I believe it is 465mm. Also, can anyone confirm/share the torque specs for the front-rear bushing, front-forward bushing, ball joint, and shock mount bolts. Lastly I need the correct torque on the axle nut. Thanks in advance.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

I am getting ready to pull my front LCAs and put in polys. I will try soaking the bolts in pb blast for a couple days beforehand, hope that will suffice. I don't plan on replacing the little bushings, just the big rear ones and then also the ball joint. Was your front bushing toast? Also would love to see torque numbers for when I do this.

 

[avslash]

465mm is correct for front height from hub centerline to lower wheel molding edge.

I show 170lb-feet for front axle nut torque for 2010-2013. This is what I used when I changed my front hubs, and I have no issues to report.

I do not know if the torque figure changed for later year models.

 

[ktm525]

The need for torches, cut off saws and trying to press bushings = Let my local Rover guy deal with it lol and replace the entire arm. You need a decent alignment afterward anyhow.

 

[cperez]

I am getting ready to pull my front LCAs and put in polys. I will try soaking the bolts in pb blast for a couple days beforehand, hope that will suffice. I don't plan on replacing the little bushings, just the big rear ones and then also the ball joint. Was your front bushing toast? Also would love to see torque numbers for when I do this.

I have a set of front LCA that I kept after a replacement job on my 2011. I wonder if it makes sense to have new polys pressed into these, get a fresh set of hardware, and give them a try next time I need LCAs.

Let me know when you get around to this project. I'd be interested in observing and passing you beers.

 

[scott schmerge]

I have a set of front LCA that I kept after a replacement job on my 2011. I wonder if it makes sense to have new polys pressed into these, get a fresh set of hardware, and give them a try next time I need LCAs.

Let me know when you get around to this project. I'd be interested in observing and passing you beers.

Granted, I have a southern truck so no rust to report. I did the polybush on the truck (just removed cam bolts with truck supported). Used a drill to get the rubber part of the bushing out and then cut the metal sleeve carefully with a sawsall and removed. New polybushes push right in with no effort. Easy job and no removal of control arm required.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

Scott, did you coat the poly bushes in never-seize(or something else), to prevent squeaking? or was that not necessary?

 

[avslash]

Scott, did you coat the poly bushes in never-seize(or something else), to prevent squeaking? or was that not necessary?

Good question.

I did a "trial run' with poly by starting with my sway bar bushings.

I painted the lube all over the inside and outside before installing them.

Don't know if that is correct or not, but they haven't squeaked in 3,000ish miles so far.

 

[scott schmerge]

Scott, did you coat the poly bushes in never-seize(or something else), to prevent squeaking? or was that not necessary?

No coating required. No squeaking.

Definitely put anti seize on cam bolts though, they’ll get the brunt of any road salt in the winter.

 

[quirozson]

Thanks to those who filled in some of my questions. Can anyone confirm/share the torque specs for the front-rear bushing, front-forward bushing, ball joint, and shock mount bolts.