Front Control Arm Replacement

[quirozson]

465mm is correct for front height from hub centerline to lower wheel molding edge.

I show 170NM for front axle nut torque for 2010-2013. This is what I used when I changed my front hubs, and I have no issues to report.

I do not know if the torque figure changed for later year models.

I found a SKF publication that puts the torque for the axle nut @ 169 fit-lbs and/or 230 Nm... On a side note, the rear axle nut is 311 ft-lbs!

 

[avslash]

I found a SKF publication that puts the torque for the axle nut @ 169 fit-lbs and/or 230 Nm... On a side note, the rear axle nut is 311 ft-lbs!

Damn. You are correct. Sorry. I just went back and looked. I transposed the NM and lbs-feet column.

Should have read 170lb-feet.

Going back to edit post.

 

[gsxr]

Hola, I'm in the middle of a grueling control arm replacement. I've been wrestling with the bolts for hours and finally cut them off. After that I spent a few hours trying to remove bushings. The front -forward bushing would not budge using a 12ton shop press.

I've been wanting to replace my front LCA bushings for a while, and this ^^^ is exactly why I'm going to shell out for complete new OE/dealer control arms (which include new ball joints and all new bushings). Yeah, they are ~$275/each delivered from online LR dealers but I figure I'll make it up with hours saved trying to change bushings.

The need for torches, cut off saws and trying to press bushings = Let my local Rover guy deal with it lol and replace the entire arm. You need a decent alignment afterward anyhow.

Exactly! Except I'll attempt it DIY (and possibly regret it) before taking it to the dealer for an alignment.

 

[scott schmerge]

I've been wanting to replace my front LCA bushings for a while, and this ^^^ is exactly why I'm going to shell out for complete new OE/dealer control arms (which include new ball joints and all new bushings). Yeah, they are ~$275/each delivered from online LR dealers but I figure I'll make it up with hours saved trying to change bushings.



Exactly! Except I'll attempt it DIY (and possibly regret it) before taking it to the dealer for an alignment.

Air hammer those cam bolts out after a good soak. Fingers crossed, you’ll be fine. All in for both sides it was a two hour job, start to finish.

I’d about do anything to keep from my local dealer getting his greedy mitts on it.

 

[Cthehentz]

I used my 20v dewalt 1/2impact to break loose and reassemble, the passenger side was a bear but using the impact and long wrench on the cam bolts worked best. Like others I replaced both complete lowers with new cam bolts. I am debating weather to toss the old lowers or rebuild them.

 

[quirozson]

I went with Eurospare replacement control arms. I've read they're made in the same factory as Land Rover part. I also figure the Land Rover part isn't that well made so why not save myself a few hundred. Just waiting for my new rear bushing bolt.

These are the torque specs I plan to use.

Torque Settings:
Shock absorber and spring assembly to lower arm bolt - 300nm
Lower arm ball joint retaining nut - 115nm
Lower arm bolts - 275nm
Hub Nut - 230nm

 

[BznLR4]

About a year ago I did the LCA bushings on my 2011 LR4. In Montana we don't use salt, so bolts came out pretty easily (no cutting needed). AB Polybush kit went in fine after using a sawzall to remove the original (see Atlantic British video).

Immediately noticed a difference in the steering wheel feel with the poly bushings - just a bit tighter and less "refined" (the "utility" in SUV...). I like the result, and it passed "wife acceptance factor".

AB videos are a lifesaver (LR3 and LR4 are the same)

 

[Aretools]

I Have all the tools and the shop. the bolts were seized I ended up cutting the bolts off with a sawzall. After trying to press out a 75.5mm housing brushing that is only 1mm thick I chose not to waste anymore of my time, I purchased new control arms. I would also suggest for people who are going to do this to also do the main wheel bearings.