Belt and spark plugs at 7 years? Other comments on maintenance

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,258
Reaction score
322
Location
Metro Boston
I don't have it handy, but last night I was reading the service manual and saw the recommended interval for plugs and belt is 7 years (and some mileage over 100k which does not apply to me as I am at just under 39k miles).

Have you guys followed that? We don't often talk about belts and plugs around here. I'm thinking I should probably do it next Fall when I will be at 7 years (and probably ~46k miles).

I just did my yearly oil change (6090 miles since last time). I decided since I always drain it from the top with the Mityvac, I should at least once, after 6 years, drain it from the bottom, old-school. So I put it up on the lift and let me tell you, the oil shoots out at full 90 degrees with a lot of pressure. I was expecting some arching and got none. Oil all over my sleeve and a mess on the floor. I also expected to somehow get more oil out that way. I put in ~7.3 quarts and warmed the engine and checked it and it shows full. And I mean right to the top mark. Yikes, that was close. Anyway, I thought that info might be useful.

Due up this weekend:

- Front and rear diff fluid change
- Transfer case fluid change
- New air filters

If you guys want pictures while it's up on the lift let me know.
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,030
Reaction score
1,801
Location
KCMO
How did the oil look that you drained out of the bottom? I was reading on an L405 forum where some people recommend draining it out the bottom every-other change.

There's a thread on here somewhere about spark plugs. I don't see how age would affect them too much; just mileage. Belts, I could see.
 

Cthehentz

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2019
Posts
166
Reaction score
65
Location
Las Vegas
This is funny, I changed my oil last February and no joke you need a fill bucket and guid bucket.
 

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,258
Reaction score
322
Location
Metro Boston
This is funny, I changed my oil last February and no joke you need a fill bucket and guid bucket.

No kidding. I must have changed the oil on 20+ different cars and I've never seen something like this.
 

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,258
Reaction score
322
Location
Metro Boston
How did the oil look that you drained out of the bottom? I was reading on an L405 forum where some people recommend draining it out the bottom every-other change.

There's a thread on here somewhere about spark plugs. I don't see how age would affect them too much; just mileage. Belts, I could see.

Oil looked no different than usual. I'll be sending it for analysis again this year to Blackstone.
 

ktm525

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Posts
2,609
Reaction score
1,274
Location
alberta
I guess you will never change the oil that way again. Plugs due at 100k miles. Mine were ready at that mileage for renewal. With your miles I would not bother.

One was rusty which was weird (Passenger bank). Also NGK superseded the stock plug with one higher heat range.(now 7c10 instead of 6c10)

IMG_3192.JPG
 

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,258
Reaction score
322
Location
Metro Boston
I guess you will never change the oil that way again. Plugs due at 100k miles. Mine were ready at that mileage for renewal. With your miles I would not bother.

One was rusty which was weird (Passenger bank). Also NGK superseded the stock plug with one higher heat range.(now 7c10 instead of 6c10)

View attachment 10203

good to know. I may push it to 8 years then. Thanks!

As for the oil, not planning in draining it that way yearly, but if I do it again a fe years form now, I’ll k ow what to expect!
 

Quijote

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Posts
1,258
Reaction score
322
Location
Metro Boston
For those like me who don’t know this stuff, why do you need to send your oil anywhere?

Just contact Blackstone labs and they will mail you the kit for free. It’s a black plastic container with a pre-paid mail label. Inside is a smaller container that you fill with oil and you fill out a small form with vehicle and service info and you put it all inside and mail it. It’s pretty easy.

Here is a photo I found on the web:

https://www.threesheetsnw.com/one-s...could-add-years-of-life-to-your-boats-engine/
 
Last edited:

gsxr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Posts
719
Reaction score
315
Location
Idaho
I just did my yearly oil change (6090 miles since last time). I decided since I always drain it from the top with the Mityvac, I should at least once, after 6 years, drain it from the bottom, old-school. So I put it up on the lift and let me tell you, the oil shoots out at full 90 degrees with a lot of pressure. I was expecting some arching and got none. Oil all over my sleeve and a mess on the floor.
Yeah... that's a real treat with hot, water-thin oil squirting straight backwards like it was pressurized. Grrrr. Anyone look into a quick-drain valve in place of the factory plug, which would allow draining downward? Next oil change I'll check the thread size/pitch. Here's an example what what I'm referring to:
http://fumotousa.com/sx-series-valves.php

sx-valve-1.jpg



Plugs due at 100k miles. Mine were ready at that mileage for renewal. … One was rusty which was weird (Passenger bank). Also NGK superseded the stock plug with one higher heat range.(now 7c10 instead of 6c10)
We bought our LR4 with ~110k and no records besides what showed up on Carfax, and AFAIK the plugs have never been replaced. Been thinking about taking the plunge.

Just a general warning to all, apparently there is a real problem with counterfeit NGK plugs on the market, even some sold/fulfilled by Amazon. There are YouTube videos and info on NGK's website showing how to tell the difference. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. Interesting about the change to ILKAR7C10 (1 heat range hotter) from the original ILKAR6C10... didn't know that!


For those like me who don’t know this stuff, why do you need to send your oil anywhere?
I have 2 oil analysis results from my 2010 LR 5.0L V8 so far, here's a link to the thread with the results in PDF files, and more discussion about oil analysis:
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/engine-oil-analysis-results-on-2010-lr4-v8.29533/


:beer:
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,251
Posts
217,883
Members
30,492
Latest member
petrhick
Top