Greetings. 2013 LR4, 83k miles. Threw this code a few weeks ago. Cleared it twice, and it has come back. Gas cap checked over several fillups. A few weeks ago, I smelled gas at the passenger rear tire, which might indicate a cracked gasket / seal on top of the gas tank. However, I haven’t smelled it lately. The other potential problem I’ve read is the charcoal canister. Any ideas from the group? Is there a way to narrow it down without throwing parts at it? Thank you.
P2402-00 (EC) Evaporative emission system leak detection pump control - circuit high
- Thread starter Jim LR4
- Start date
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jlglr4
Full Access Member
I would think that code relates to the dmtl pump itself, or maybe even the wiring harness, but I‘m not sure how you would narrow it down aside from replacing the pump. Most of the reports on the fuel tank flange crack seem to have no codes shown as I recall - just fuel smell.
On the newer cars, I think the pump is integrated right into the canister, but at one time they were separately replaceable. I don’t know when they made that change or whether you have an integrated unit on your 2013.
On the newer cars, I think the pump is integrated right into the canister, but at one time they were separately replaceable. I don’t know when they made that change or whether you have an integrated unit on your 2013.
I have a late 2013 and the DMTL is replaceable. I just did it a couple weeks ago. Its Bosch 0261222022 if you don't want to buy the LR branded part.
On occasion I would smell fuel from the filler area (I replaced the pump cover in the beginning of the summer, no codes), and it got bad to the point where I couldn't even put gas in the truck. I did the DMTL and purge valve at the same time. I got a code that pointed to the purge valve but the DMTL pump is such a junk part and I had to get the excess fuel out of the charcoal canister anyway so I replaced it as well.
On occasion I would smell fuel from the filler area (I replaced the pump cover in the beginning of the summer, no codes), and it got bad to the point where I couldn't even put gas in the truck. I did the DMTL and purge valve at the same time. I got a code that pointed to the purge valve but the DMTL pump is such a junk part and I had to get the excess fuel out of the charcoal canister anyway so I replaced it as well.
They reason theyre there is to move exhaust vapors from the fuel tank into the intake manifold for emissions. The DMTL pump is on the vapor canister which is above the rear diff, the purge valve along the driver's side valve cover (under a piece of insulation) under the hood.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
In case you want a little more info: the purge valve connects the throttle body to the charcoal canister. It’s in a black plastic run of piping that travels from the throttle body along the drivers side of the engine and down the backside of the engine, then all the way back under the car to the canister. Looks similar to the crankcase vent line, but smaller diameter. The valve is supposed to be closed when the car is idling (high vacuum in throttle body), and opens when the car is at higher RPMs and there is some pressure in the tank to pull fumes from the tank through the canister and into the engine. Once failure sign I’ve seen reported is a clicking from the purge valve while the car is idling, though that’s probably not the only mode of failure.
The DMTL pump pressurizes the whole evap system under certain manufacterer specified conditions (car driven x miles with so many drive cycles, then turned off for y minutes, etc.). It pulls in fresh air through a normally-closed fresh air vent. Purge valve should be closed. Once the system is pressurized, the pressure sensors check for loss of pressure over a period of time, which would indicate a leak. If there is a leak, the ECM sets a code.
The DMTL pump pressurizes the whole evap system under certain manufacterer specified conditions (car driven x miles with so many drive cycles, then turned off for y minutes, etc.). It pulls in fresh air through a normally-closed fresh air vent. Purge valve should be closed. Once the system is pressurized, the pressure sensors check for loss of pressure over a period of time, which would indicate a leak. If there is a leak, the ECM sets a code.
FIXED: I ordered Pump WTR500030, Evaporative Loss Leak Detection Purge Valve Charcoal Canister (DMTL), Original Equipment By BOSCH from Atlantic British; local mechanic installed it and it appears to have taken care of the issue.
Thank you all again for your support.
Thank you all again for your support.
kjnmontana
New Member
Evening, I have a 2011 LR4 with the 5.0. Attempting to replace the evap detection pump above the spare tire area. Would you have any procedural resources on how a DIY might complete a R&R? Thanks
Kelly
jlglr4
Full Access Member
@kjnmontana Sorry for the delay getting back to you (saw your post on the other forum as well). I haven’t done this repair myself. I checked my manuals and the section on the evap system is missing (these are just random manuals I’ve found on the internet). So, can’t help with a procedure I’m afraid.
Hopefully someone else who has done the evap pump replacement will see this and chime in.
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