2010 Lr4 the little rover that could at 253k

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Strider95

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Howdy all. I have the little rover that could. This thing has seen a bit. 253k miles on a 5.0. I purchased this with 80k miles and a leaking valve cover back in 2019. Over the years I’ve replaced a bit:
Passenger valve cover gasket
Parking break actuator
Brake shoes
Front and rear air shocks
2 compressor’s and distribution blocks
Slotted and drill rotors
All control arms
Two piece transmission pan and filter
Water pump
Front and rear crossovers
Viscous fan
Alternator


Shes sitting at 253k and I started hearing a rattle back in February and figured it was time to open her up. I found one of the aluminum guides plastic pieces had separated from the aluminum and the chain pulled it up into the valve cover and wedged it against the head. It broke a few pieces off but I was able to recover all of the pieces. Timing didn’t jump thank the lord. After pulling apart I found what look to be original, non revised guides and tensioners. Here’s what I’ve done all oem:
new timing components
oil cooler
plugs
injectors
oil restrictors
oil drain tubes
head gaskets
tappets
all new bearing cap and timing bolts
Engine mounts
Exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts
Exhaust to cat studs
Front timing cover

Everything went fairly smooth. I pulled the heads and soaked them for 48 hours in a purple simple clean hd solution that worked beautifully. Timing was installed utilizing the manual and lined up perfect. I’m having a few codes after startup and she’s running a bit rough.

P0267-11 (EC) Cylinder 3 injector circuit low - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground

Might be a bad injector

P0019-00 (EC) Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - bank 2, sensor 2
This one bothers me

P0117-16 (EC) Engine coolant temperature circuit low input - General electrical failure - circuit voltage below threshold
This one boggles me

No odd sounds, no abnormal ticking, but she’s running rough right now with cylinder 3 out.

After I get this situated I have new cv axles, inner and outer rods and various linkage to replace. I have an x-pipe that I may throw in just for fun.

A word of advice to anyone doing the timing. BUY NEW BOLTS AND CLEAN EVERY BOLT HOLE.


 
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powershift

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Great story! How many miles in total do you hope to get out of the engine? That transmission is amazing! I hope mine lasts that long but I like to race it. Do you ever get on it or is it more like a chill commuter?
 

Strider95

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Great story! How many miles in total do you hope to get out of the engine? That transmission is amazing! I hope mine lasts that long but I like to race it. Do you ever get on it or is it more like a chill commuter?
I definitely abuse her, she likes it though. I’ll keep her going as long as I can!
 

Strider95

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Update:
one temp sensor reading 302f .07v. Values do not change when unplugging 12 and 18 pin harness connectors, only when disconnecting 96 pin connector from ecu. Suspect a bad driver in the ecu.

Found a bad injector. Gap tool said cylinder 3. The manual states passenger bank from front to back, 1,2,3,4. Found a video where Atlantic British states passenger side front to back, 1,3,5,7. Not sure if they meant firing order, but injector on what Land Rover states is cylinder 3 was fine. The second from the front, which Atlantic says is 3, was the bad one. Replaced and no codes.

Replaced the cam sensor and no codes.

Went to start and she only clicked. Pulled spark plugs to find another failed injector, stuck open, on the drivers side. Completely filled cylinder with fuel. Removed fuel, replaced injector. Drained engine to find 4qts of fuel drained in. Everything fixed and back together. Scanned to find all four vvt solenoids showing circuits open-general electric failure. Tested to find 12v coming through signal pin on each solenoid. Ground at 3v. Fuses all good.

Being that the ecm controls the ground side and sees zero current draw on all actuator circuits, since power is present, the ECM is complaining because it can’t see/drive the control side correctly. The ecm uses shared internal circuits for 5v sensor reference, low side drivers (like vvt control), and ground references. The bad signal is being generated inside the ECM, not coming from the external wiring. Being I have two systems failing that share ecm internals, I’m going with ecm failure. New (used) one will be here tomorrow.
 

powershift

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For the cylinder numbers count left to right and front to back. Passenger side would be 1, 3, 5 and 7. Drivers side would be 2, 4, 6 and 8.

I've heard the GAP tool can be wrong with the either coil numbers or injectors, not sure but it can be misleading. You can get the Land Rover SDD on the jag forums when using a laptop and a dongle. I paid $30 for a Drew Tech counterfeit usb-to-obd2 dongle and DVD's of SDD. It worked great but now I use the image off the Jag forum. That way you aren't working with a tool that was created by reverse engineering SDD since that process can have mistakes.
 

Strider95

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For the cylinder numbers count left to right and front to back. Passenger side would be 1, 3, 5 and 7. Drivers side would be 2, 4, 6 and 8.

I've heard the GAP tool can be wrong with the either coil numbers or injectors, not sure but it can be misleading. You can get the Land Rover SDD on the jag forums when using a laptop and a dongle. I paid $30 for a Drew Tech counterfeit usb-to-obd2 dongle and DVD's of SDD. It worked great but now I use the image off the Jag forum. That way you aren't working with a tool that was created by reverse engineering SDD since that process can have mistakes.
You would happen to have the link to the jag thread would you?
 

Strider95

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