2010 Lr4 the little rover that could at 253k

[Strider95]

Update. All codes fixed. My only standing problem now is the rear temp sensor. sensor 1 (rear) showing 302 degrees and .07v. Testing the harness pins I have 3.5v and 12v. According to the wiring diagrams the rear wires should be yellow and green/brown. I have solid green and grey. The front temp sensor (2) colors are correct to the diagram. Diagram shows temp sensor 2 yellow to pin 40 at ecm, and green/brown to pin 13. I have continuity between yellow and 40, but not green/brown to 13. Diagram shows temp sensor 1 yellow to pin 68, green/brown to 13. My green wire on sensor 1 has continuity to pin 85. My grey wire has continuity to a pin on the 18 pin connector near the ecm. Which continues on to the ecm fan. I have continuity between grey at sensor harness and ecm fan harness. At this point, I’m lost.

 

[Strider95]

Update: everything is back to normal ready to go. Started her up and One code P0018. Bank 2 intake cam at 180 degrees. I debated replacing the phasers while torn down but opted not too, now I think I have a phaser that is stuck. Time to tear back in and replace them.

 

[powershift]

You'll get there. The shop I went to wouldn't do the chain work without the cam actuators. $1k above the chain costs so there is that part too. Since you are DIY it will financially be a light hit in the long run comparatively. I'd put all new parts on the front and go to town. Shops don't do it that way because if it isn't broken then don't fix it. But I like it all fresh rubber hoses, all parts clean and inspected. In 14k mi I'm looking at replacing the alternator proactively and with that the pullies, tensioner, belt. Gates brand or Land Rover but I think Gates this time. Wix has gone to hell so I'm switching my oil filter to Land Rover next time even if its more expensive. The last Wix I bought came apart and a plastic piece stuck in the engine block.

 

[davidrosenbloom]

So quite impressive to say the least. You didnt say whether you replaced the HPFP chain etc and that was my first thought after watching an hour long video about that stretching and going out of time. I doubted the ECM only because of watching so many videos. There's one out thee I hate to say I cant point you to it, that suggests a wire chafing within the ecm bundle and/or fuse box bundle and he found it with an oscillscope / wire beeper / ground fault tool. Im sorry I cant be more precise. On that coolant DTC be aware as Im sure you are that a faulty thermostat can result in that code 117-16 what its really saying is "the engine didnt warm up as expected and I got these low values that dont make sense, I had this exact thing happen. Im sure I dont have to tell you how to solve this with an infrared temp gun, so I wont, but it had me believing using a G3 tool that my 12 5.0 had a bad rear thermostat and then when I measured the ohms both were fine; then the infrared revealed the thermostat leaking. My experience with JLR for 20 years informs me that the OBD tool is only so accurate. Curious as to whether you did your vacuum pump etc and everything ont eh front; impressive ; what were your OCI's and type of oil?

Dave R.

07 L322
09 L322
12 L322

 

[Strider95]

You'll get there. The shop I went to wouldn't do the chain work without the cam actuators. $1k above the chain costs so there is that part too. Since you are DIY it will financially be a light hit in the long run comparatively. I'd put all new parts on the front and go to town. Shops don't do it that way because if it isn't broken then don't fix it. But I like it all fresh rubber hoses, all parts clean and inspected. In 14k mi I'm looking at replacing the alternator proactively and with that the pullies, tensioner, belt. Gates brand or Land Rover but I think Gates this time. Wix has gone to hell so I'm switching my oil filter to Land Rover next time even if it’s more expensive. The last Wix I bought came apart and a plastic piece stuck in the engine block.

So quite impressive to say the least. You didnt say whether you replaced the HPFP chain etc and that was my first thought after watching an hour long video about that stretching and going out of time. I doubted the ECM only because of watching so many videos. There's one out thee I hate to say I cant point you to it, that suggests a wire chafing within the ecm bundle and/or fuse box bundle and he found it with an oscillscope / wire beeper / ground fault tool. Im sorry I cant be more precise. On that coolant DTC be aware as Im sure you are that a faulty thermostat can result in that code 117-16 what its really saying is "the engine didnt warm up as expected and I got these low values that dont make sense, I had this exact thing happen. Im sure I dont have to tell you how to solve this with an infrared temp gun, so I wont, but it had me believing using a G3 tool that my 12 5.0 had a bad rear thermostat and then when I measured the ohms both were fine; then the infrared revealed the thermostat leaking. My experience with JLR for 20 years informs me that the OBD tool is only so accurate. Curious as to whether you did your vacuum pump etc and everything ont eh front; impressive ; what were your OCI's and type of oil?

Dave R.

07 L322
09 L322
12 L322

I did the hpfp chain as well, it was a pain. I did the vacuum pump sometime last year as preventative. I have a 180 thermostat I’m going to throw in as well as a couple new temp sensors.