Routing for stout wires from battery to back?

[scapistron]

I'd assume there's knockouts in the firewall for the RHD version.

 

[Land Rover Joe]

gine).

I'd assume there's knockouts in the firewall for the RHD version.

Question for @scapistron : Are we talking about a RHD (i.e. UK) or LHD (i.e. NAS / LR4)? I am only going to speak for the LR4, which is what I am driving. RHD would be a rather different animal (because a UK variant would both RHD as well as the Discovery 4 TDI V6 engine)....

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Errr….i don’t suppose anybody knows a pass-through in the firewall on the passenger side?

Regarding where to push wires through the firewall on the passenger side (so again – I am referring to a NAS LR4 / LHD): you can make a cut in the large rubber grommet / seal which services the large wiring loom going to large series of panels behind the glove-box.

Several photos of mine are attached here for your reference (as with everything ripped out right now it is relatively easy to see): look at the lonely white wire, which is the control/lead wire for my TRAXIDE unit that feeds into the control unit stashed away in my glove-box (one photo of the *****/cover less unit in the glove-box attached. This photograph is from the front of the engine looking toward the rear of the vehicle with the main ECU / computer to the right and the edge of the engine bay (corner) to the left.

TRAXIDE (i.e. Tim at @drivesafe) has the installation instructions for this unit which comes with a host of photographs so you can reach out to him if you are interested in one of their products.

Note – I like TRAXIDE’s work but am not getting any kickbacks! In fact, I am considering removing my TRAXIDE unit right now (this is the USI-160 power controller for the auxiliary battery install) and just replacing it with a generic battery isolator (if so, I am going to leave the control wire in place in the event that I would need to wire up something else into the engine bay someday.

Hope that helps!

 

[drivesafe]

Hi LR Joe, just note, ordinary isolators will not work with your SMART alternator operation.

You will find that if you replace the Traxide unit and you use a fair bit of the auxiliary battery's capacity, you can only use a DC/DC device to get the auxiliary battery properly charged.

 

[Land Rover Joe]

Hi LR Joe, just note, ordinary isolators will not work with your SMART alternator operation.

You will find that if you replace the Traxide unit and you use a fair bit of the auxiliary battery's capacity, you can only use a DC/DC device to get the auxiliary battery properly charged.

Thanks!

 

[f1racer328]

Bumping this thread. I’m looking to route a wire for power all the way to the back. What route did you end up taking? I don't have a preference on driver or passenger side.

 

[greiswig]

Bumping this thread. I’m looking to route a wire for power all the way to the back. What route did you end up taking? I don't have a preference on driver or passenger side.

I ended up going through the firewall on the passenger side. I made a hole, and put seals on it.

 

[powershift]

I ended up going through the firewall on the passenger side. I made a hole, and put seals on it.

I've been thinking about drilling a hole to run a beefy cable to a Victron DC-to-DC charger for a lifepo4 pack. What gauge wire did you use and what seal was used?