I have three Land Rovers and they will self level when stopped for a minute or so and when you shut the car off.
2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode
- Thread starter Longtrail
- Start date
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I believe it will do this self-leveling every two hours; this is the reason when you're trying to diagnose air-leak issues that you remove the RLM (Ride Level Module) fuses so that the RLM ECU is removed from that equation.
Also, if you jack up one of the corners; the opposite corner will also make adjustments! I think mine recently put itself in off-road height when I was "playing" with the rear handbrake system - see separate thread that I posted for that amusement!
Hi @Longtrail - you and I must be living parallel lives. 2011 LR4 Lux 5.0L V8 non-HD w/ 105,000 miles. I got the same fault code on my first scan w/ the unit you suggested. Mine says it's intermittent and I am not having the same problems you did (yet). I also have an inclined driveway and when I get the rare error message, it's at startup. I shut it down, let it run through a system check, start it back up, and the error message is gone. No noticeable difference in the ride or other problems (so far).
2012 LR4 HSE (don't have the Lux) but I do have rear entertainment that the kids love - it's parallel enough! FWIW - A lot of my issues showed on startup but also during normal running. I know on startup, per some of the graphs that I shared that the compressor seems to always run in order to build tank pressure; once it'***** the desired pressure it then vents the high pressure from the respective lines (~23-PSI if I recall). I think I documented this but if I didn't I can try to explain more.
Did I mention I lived in Oakland County in a small town named Lake Orion? ("Ori-on" not like the constellation.) That was about 4 years of my life during the early 2000s. Nice folks, but not "home".
I've been here in MI for circa 25 years; I hailed from the UK originally! Hence a few bucket list items coining to fruition. (1) Own a Landy, and, (2) Own something with a V8
. Like you I also have kids (you've mentioned this in the past).
Looking back, do you think you needed to service all those components or would it have worked if you simply changed out the compressor and programmed the ECU to accept it? Of course, it can only make your suspension better/more stable to have done the servicing.
That's a tough one, mine was falling overnight so I'm kind of glad that I did service the parts; the front and middle valves are really easy to do (and fun for me); the rear one is just as easy other than removing and re-installing the block; I shiver at the though of doing it but in some respects it went better than I was expecting! I was honestly getting a tad desperate at solving the issue but with the IIDTool and the re-flash of the ECU that solved absolutely everything and after this I know that the suspension system is/was in good shape. I think the next issue will be airbags as they look to be original! I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. So, no regrets!
My ultimate goal is to have everything work as intended. It would be satisfying, even if there were some things that I rarely or practically never use.
Like you, in the early days I had radio issues! I just replaced the whole unit with another one that I found on Ebay! I got lucky, it all worked out! I know other things will follow but for now I'm in a decent place and I'm enjoying the magic of this vehicle.
P.S. Regarding your comments about the camber of the wheels at different ride heights, I've noticed the suspension system seems to adjust more readily when the rig is moving. In fact, it will automatically switch to normal mode from access (and I believe off-road) whenever I am entering normal driving conditions. I was thinking maybe the compressor had more "juice" to do its job on the fly, but maybe it's the system taking this camber issue into account.
It makes absolute sense that as the wheel rolls any camber change (lateral force on the tyre (hee hee - Brit spelling)) will go to zero - they set these up with some camber ****** to help cornering ability. If you just lower the vehicle in a stationary position there's a lot of force that is reacted through the tire as the camber changes as a function of vertical wheel position; so, changing ride height while driving is much more friendly to the the tires! To be honest though; these tire forces are negligible when compared to some of the off road antics that the guys on this forum get up to.
2012 LR4 HSE (don't have the Lux) but I do have rear entertainment that the kids love - it's parallel enough! FWIW - A lot of my issues showed on startup but also during normal running. I know on startup, per some of the graphs that I shared that the compressor seems to always run in order to build tank pressure; once it'***** the desired pressure it then vents the high pressure from the respective lines (~23-PSI if I recall). I think I documented this but if I didn't I can try to explain more.
Did I mention I lived in Oakland County in a small town named Lake Orion? ("Ori-on" not like the constellation.) That was about 4 years of my life during the early 2000s. Nice folks, but not "home".
I've been here in MI for circa 25 years; I hailed from the UK originally! Hence a few bucket list items coining to fruition. (1) Own a Landy, and, (2) Own something with a V8
. Like you I also have kids (you've mentioned this in the past).Looking back, do you think you needed to service all those components or would it have worked if you simply changed out the compressor and programmed the ECU to accept it? Of course, it can only make your suspension better/more stable to have done the servicing.
That's a tough one, mine was falling overnight so I'm kind of glad that I did service the parts; the front and middle valves are really easy to do (and fun for me); the rear one is just as easy other than removing and re-installing the block; I shiver at the though of doing it but in some respects it went better than I was expecting! I was honestly getting a tad desperate at solving the issue but with the IIDTool and the re-flash of the ECU that solved absolutely everything and after this I know that the suspension system is/was in good shape. I think the next issue will be airbags as they look to be original! I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. So, no regrets!
My ultimate goal is to have everything work as intended. It would be satisfying, even if there were some things that I rarely or practically never use.
Like you, in the early days I had radio issues! I just replaced the whole unit with another one that I found on Ebay! I got lucky, it all worked out! I know other things will follow but for now I'm in a decent place and I'm enjoying the magic of this vehicle.
P.S. Regarding your comments about the camber of the wheels at different ride heights, I've noticed the suspension system seems to adjust more readily when the rig is moving. In fact, it will automatically switch to normal mode from access (and I believe off-road) whenever I am entering normal driving conditions. I was thinking maybe the compressor had more "juice" to do its job on the fly, but maybe it's the system taking this camber issue into account.
It makes absolute sense that as the wheel rolls any camber change (lateral force on the tyre (hee hee - Brit spelling)) will go to zero - they set these up with some camber ****** to help cornering ability. If you just lower the vehicle in a stationary position there's a lot of force that is reacted through the tire as the camber changes as a function of vertical wheel position; so, changing ride height while driving is much more friendly to the the tires! To be honest though; these tire forces are negligible when compared to some of the off road antics that the guys on this forum get up to
.
BigBriDogGuy
Full Access Member
That response deserved me than a simple like.
If you jack up an arm with the engine running, this is what happens when you utilize the self-leveling to your advantage.
Also, THE easiest way to change out a tire.
BigBriDogGuy
Full Access Member
Put 250 miles on the LR4 today (round trip) visiting my dad who just turned 94 and is in an assisted care situation. The rig performed admirably, solid as a rock.
It was the first truly warm day of the year, got up to 80 degrees. Learned that the air conditioning wasn't blowing cold air, so drove down the freeway with the sunroof open and the windows cracked. It was loud and windy, but cooled things down enough to be comfortable. The HVAC unit was one of the things that actually did show up on my first scan with the cheap diagnostic tool. Hoping it just needs to be recharged. It will definitely need to be fixed before the weather gets warm on a regular basis. There is a lot of glass and my rig is black. No way am I going through the summer without AC.
Other than that, an uneventful trip.
It was the first truly warm day of the year, got up to 80 degrees. Learned that the air conditioning wasn't blowing cold air, so drove down the freeway with the sunroof open and the windows cracked. It was loud and windy, but cooled things down enough to be comfortable. The HVAC unit was one of the things that actually did show up on my first scan with the cheap diagnostic tool. Hoping it just needs to be recharged. It will definitely need to be fixed before the weather gets warm on a regular basis. There is a lot of glass and my rig is black. No way am I going through the summer without AC.
Other than that, an uneventful trip.
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BigBriDogGuy
Full Access Member
Thanks @djkaosone for the tip. I watched a video that was posted on one of the other threads and it looks like it's pretty simple to recharge your own system. Then the technician goes on to add some warnings and it starts to sound a bit ominous. Like they say, "It's always simple, until it's not."
I called up the local shop that specializes in A/C and HVAC. Told them the situation and they said it would be around $250 for recharging the A/C unit. I asked, "What if it is something more than a simple recharging of the coolant? What if it has a major leak?" They said the shop rate was $160 per hour to diagnose it. I asked if they would also use electronic diagnostic tools to help isolate any problems? He assured me they have a $16,000 diagnostic unit that was more than up to the task. Finally, I asked if it came down to a minor leak that would allow me to recharge the A/C and get me through a warm season until next year or having to dig deep into the A/C system in order to fix the problem, would they give me the option of simply recharging the A/C? He said they always like to fix things the right way, but if I decided to go that direction it was totally up to me.
I'm starting see a trend here. I can see why people work on their own rigs. You can get a can of r134a for dirt cheap ($40-$50). It even comes with a pressure gauge attached to the hose. Taking it to a shop may cost 10x that much. Why not just go for it, what's the worst that can happen?
Fear. That's what it comes down to. I know enough to be dangerous. I have no idea what the unintended consequences of doing something wrong might be. For instance, I read on another thread that if you use the cannister with the sealant that it will muck up your system and really cause problems. Well, what do these off-the-shelf DIY cannisters typically contain? Sealant. Maybe that's not a big deal if you are willing to recharge your A/C annually and for the duration of the life of the vehicle. Or maybe it's a really big deal and you would be far better off just fixing the problem.
I know a mechanic that owns his own repair shop and has been working on vehicles for years as an independent. I just got off the phone with him. I think that may be my best move. I trust him. That's key.
I called up the local shop that specializes in A/C and HVAC. Told them the situation and they said it would be around $250 for recharging the A/C unit. I asked, "What if it is something more than a simple recharging of the coolant? What if it has a major leak?" They said the shop rate was $160 per hour to diagnose it. I asked if they would also use electronic diagnostic tools to help isolate any problems? He assured me they have a $16,000 diagnostic unit that was more than up to the task. Finally, I asked if it came down to a minor leak that would allow me to recharge the A/C and get me through a warm season until next year or having to dig deep into the A/C system in order to fix the problem, would they give me the option of simply recharging the A/C? He said they always like to fix things the right way, but if I decided to go that direction it was totally up to me.
I'm starting see a trend here. I can see why people work on their own rigs. You can get a can of r134a for dirt cheap ($40-$50). It even comes with a pressure gauge attached to the hose. Taking it to a shop may cost 10x that much. Why not just go for it, what's the worst that can happen?
Fear. That's what it comes down to. I know enough to be dangerous. I have no idea what the unintended consequences of doing something wrong might be. For instance, I read on another thread that if you use the cannister with the sealant that it will muck up your system and really cause problems. Well, what do these off-the-shelf DIY cannisters typically contain? Sealant. Maybe that's not a big deal if you are willing to recharge your A/C annually and for the duration of the life of the vehicle. Or maybe it's a really big deal and you would be far better off just fixing the problem.
I know a mechanic that owns his own repair shop and has been working on vehicles for years as an independent. I just got off the phone with him. I think that may be my best move. I trust him. That's key.
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If you're already low on freon, get a can with dye in it. Don't put the whole thing in, maybe 4oz in a few quick spurts. Use a kitchen scale to measure the full can and while you're dispensing it. Then check with a black light for leaks with the engine off and after running the AC for 15-20 mins. This will be a lot cheaper than sending it in.
