2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement

[timc930]

I was thinking the factory coolant was pink? So is it actually orange?

 

[jlglr4]

As far as I know, it’s been orange in recent history. I don’t remember anyone on here reporting pink before. But I think orange can be OAT (like Dexcool) or HOAT. The colors are not all that good of a way to tell anymore. I think LR coolant is orange OAT like Dexcool, but I’m not 100%. Maybe someone with better info will chime in.

 

[timc930]

Well that makes it easy then, I’ll just refill with orange Dexcool. For some odd reason I thought it was pink!!

 

[jlglr4]

I just checked the owners manual for my 2016 and it specifies Havoline XLC antifreeze.

 

[16FujiDisco]

I just checked the owners manual for my 2016 and it specifies Havoline XLC antifreeze.

I believe last time I was at the store and compared this with Prestone’s dexcool, it was the same ingredient percentages

 

[ryanjl]

If I recall correctly, my local dealer told me they just use Prestone Dexcool. It's been 4 years or so, so I could be wrong.

When I had a local shop do my crossover pipes, I supplied them with the Land Rover stuff. I might be a sucker, but for a few dollars difference, I sleep better at night.

 

[timc930]

Regarding the small pipe that goes between the oil cooler and waterpump. There is a flange mid way, does that need to be oriented in a way that it’s against the block or does matter. I did not pay attention before I removed, but I am guessing the thick side of the flange fits against the block?

 

[timc930]

I have to say this job was bigger than I had anticipated from the comments here. All told I spent almost 40 hours on it, and then blew the passenger top left hose off while test driving due to forgetting a hose clamp. :-(
Quick fix and re-fill/bleed all the coolant (the Portland JLR dealer charges DOUBLE the internet prices) and been ok since. Don't think it overheated too badly (I hope). The rear map sensor was impossible to remove, I wish I had read about unscrewing it before I cut all the wires and had to rebuild them with the soldering iron (but it all works)

I really want to say I appreciate everyone's advice here, so thanks for that. The parts lists were great, I changed the expansion tank and thermostat, and bought the lower hose. I also had the shop manual from purchasing it on ebay, and it was really helpful for some parts.
My advice: Take more pictures as you're working than you think you need and watch out for the 2 longer torx head machine screws that I never figured out where they went (I think I used the short ones to fasten the coolant pipes to the block)

Did you figure out where the two longer machine T30 screws go? These are the 25mm T30, the shorter ones are 20mm. I am guessing they go in the front cross pipe that attaches to the block.

UPDATE: Based on the two T30’s that hold the upper pipe to the snout are much longer, I am using the two 25mm T30’s for the lower pipe, as it appears they want a few more threads in the block to secure it.

 

[go_jesse]

UPDATE: Based on the two T30’s that hold the upper pipe to the snout are much longer, I am using the two 25mm T30’s for the lower pipe, as it appears they want a few more threads in the block to secure it.

I suspect that's where they go as well, but I decided it probably wasn't worth it to tear down the whole engine again to get them out.

 

[timc930]

BTW, using a syringe, and afterwards tilting the SC up on its end, I can only get about 2 oz of oil out, is this normal?