SO I was just looking at the new front pipes, specifically the lower "Y" pipe, and upper pipe, and both appear MUCH thicker then the old pipe, as well as the internal coolant flow area being smaller, due to thicker walls, just in comparison with sticking my fingers in and feeling. I can't fit my finger up into the NEW lower Y pipe, and I can EASILY insert my finger into the old pipes. These new pipes definitely look/appear more robust, as well as being one piece. Let me know what you guys think.
2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement
- Thread starter jlglr4
- Start date
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serge1060
Active Member
Hi,
I am planning to replace my rear crossover or the heater manifold pipe this week. Do I need to completely drain the coolant before I start replacing it? Thanks.
I am planning to replace my rear crossover or the heater manifold pipe this week. Do I need to completely drain the coolant before I start replacing it? Thanks.
I am guessing No, but just wanted to ck, are you guys using any sealant on the following: WP, Intake, IC to SC? I usually install metal gaskets dry. The only place that I see using sealant is the Snout to SC.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
I only used sealant on the SC snout.
Thankyou. That’s what I was thinking as well.
Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
Same
I agree
go_jesse
New Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2016
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I have to say this job was bigger than I had anticipated from the comments here. All told I spent almost 40 hours on it, and then blew the passenger top left hose off while test driving due to forgetting a hose clamp. :-(
Quick fix and re-fill/bleed all the coolant (the Portland JLR dealer charges DOUBLE the internet prices) and been ok since. Don't think it overheated too badly (I hope). The rear map sensor was impossible to remove, I wish I had read about unscrewing it before I cut all the wires and had to rebuild them with the soldering iron (but it all works)
I really want to say I appreciate everyone's advice here, so thanks for that. The parts lists were great, I changed the expansion tank and thermostat, and bought the lower hose. I also had the shop manual from purchasing it on ebay, and it was really helpful for some parts.
My advice: Take more pictures as you're working than you think you need and watch out for the 2 longer torx head machine screws that I never figured out where they went (I think I used the short ones to fasten the coolant pipes to the block)
Quick fix and re-fill/bleed all the coolant (the Portland JLR dealer charges DOUBLE the internet prices) and been ok since. Don't think it overheated too badly (I hope). The rear map sensor was impossible to remove, I wish I had read about unscrewing it before I cut all the wires and had to rebuild them with the soldering iron (but it all works)
I really want to say I appreciate everyone's advice here, so thanks for that. The parts lists were great, I changed the expansion tank and thermostat, and bought the lower hose. I also had the shop manual from purchasing it on ebay, and it was really helpful for some parts.
My advice: Take more pictures as you're working than you think you need and watch out for the 2 longer torx head machine screws that I never figured out where they went (I think I used the short ones to fasten the coolant pipes to the block)
First two other very helpful threads on the matter:
- https://www.landroverworld.org/thre...ssover-and-passenger-valve-cover.42135/page-3
- https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x351-53/supercharger-removal-188511/
I just finished the job today too. Crazy part - I forgot to remove tissues from the intake, and remembered about this only after I've done assembling everything back. Had to remove the intercooler again and stripped one of the threads (fix: bought a longer 40mm M8x1.25mm bolt and placed a nut under intake manifold - worked fine. Will have to do it properly with a helicoil at some point in the future).
The car is 2015 LR4 with 87,000 miles.
The intake was very dirty, with oil everywhere and teflon flakes from supercharger. I replaced the supercharger as I found a great deal on a new one.
Alignment pins for supercharger reinstall is a must as mentioned previously (bought partially threaded 90mm M8x1.25mm bolts and grinded top part smooth).
I also had to drive to Harbor Freight to buy the engine support bar as recommended in the Jaguar forum. The supercharger just refused to separate from the engine.
PM me if you want a shop manual, it was really hard to find one for the SCV6 LR4, and it is really helpful with a list of all torque values
I figured from parts diagram that one long bolt (M6 40mm) goes securing the rear part of the top front crossover pipe into the supercharger snout.
I used the second M6 40mm bolt to fasten the front side of that pipe (even though the diagram tells 25mm bolt...)
But I could never figure where the second M6 40mm ***** should really have gone - any clues?
Also I have lost a plastic clip from the fuel vapor line that goes into the supercharger (LR010749) - any ideas if I can get that clip, or connector from somewhere without having to buy a whole hose? (buying a new hose for $180 is kind of too much for a plastic clip...)
Must have before even starting the job:
- Coolant (it's a good occasion to refresh coolant)
- Good reliable calibrated torque wrench (I needed torque values in the range 3-50 Nm)
- Alignment pins. DIY solution: M8x1.25mm 90mm partially threaded (this or this, and grind it down smooth)
- Second strong person or Engine support bar (to lift supercharger-manifold assembly)
- 17mm crawfoot flare nut, like this set (used to loosen and tighten the fuel line nuts using torque wrench)
- Good hose clamps (ideally with flexible hose, some clamps are just weirdly turned/located)
- Good set of trim removal tools (for all these tough christmas tree clamps)
- Magnetic pickup tool (I dropped bolts and tools inside the engine bay waaay to often)
- Foldable mirror (to see all connectors that must be disconnected behind the engine)
- Very short and small T30 wrench (like this, handy for behind engine work, especially with rear crossover manifold)
Torque values:
- Throttle body to supercharger: 10Nm
- Intake manifold to the engine block: 25Nm, starting from middle bolts inside manifold
- Intercooler to intake manifold: 25Nm, starting from the 4 hex bolts in the middle
- High pressure Fuel line nuts: 21Nm
- Intake manifold to supercharger (if replacing supercharger): 25Nm
- For plastic pipes I used 10Nm for both front and rear manifolds
On top of Front and rear manifold I have also replaced spark plugs (20Nm), primary and secondary belt tensioner pulleys, air filters (I used old air filters as tool stands), PCV valve (the car now idles much smoother), bunch of hoses as mentioned previously by others, thermostat and waterpump.
Next to replace are: fan (need special tools to remove), both belts (primary belt needs fan removal to replace), remaining idler pulleys (much easier with fan removed).
Overall very happy, no catastrophic failure (so far!), no overheating, and engine works much quieter now (that snout spring and PCV valve made a very noticable difference)
- https://www.landroverworld.org/thre...ssover-and-passenger-valve-cover.42135/page-3
- https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x351-53/supercharger-removal-188511/
I just finished the job today too. Crazy part - I forgot to remove tissues from the intake, and remembered about this only after I've done assembling everything back. Had to remove the intercooler again and stripped one of the threads (fix: bought a longer 40mm M8x1.25mm bolt and placed a nut under intake manifold - worked fine. Will have to do it properly with a helicoil at some point in the future).
The car is 2015 LR4 with 87,000 miles.
The intake was very dirty, with oil everywhere and teflon flakes from supercharger. I replaced the supercharger as I found a great deal on a new one.
Alignment pins for supercharger reinstall is a must as mentioned previously (bought partially threaded 90mm M8x1.25mm bolts and grinded top part smooth).
I also had to drive to Harbor Freight to buy the engine support bar as recommended in the Jaguar forum. The supercharger just refused to separate from the engine.
PM me if you want a shop manual, it was really hard to find one for the SCV6 LR4, and it is really helpful with a list of all torque values
Double that! Ideally use ziplock bags and label which screws came from where (or take photos of each bolt location after removing it). Also put any removable plastic clips into ziplock bags - I have managed to loose one of them
I figured from parts diagram that one long bolt (M6 40mm) goes securing the rear part of the top front crossover pipe into the supercharger snout.
I used the second M6 40mm bolt to fasten the front side of that pipe (even though the diagram tells 25mm bolt...)
But I could never figure where the second M6 40mm ***** should really have gone - any clues?
Also I have lost a plastic clip from the fuel vapor line that goes into the supercharger (LR010749) - any ideas if I can get that clip, or connector from somewhere without having to buy a whole hose? (buying a new hose for $180 is kind of too much for a plastic clip...)
Must have before even starting the job:
- Coolant (it's a good occasion to refresh coolant)
- Good reliable calibrated torque wrench (I needed torque values in the range 3-50 Nm)
- Alignment pins. DIY solution: M8x1.25mm 90mm partially threaded (this or this, and grind it down smooth)
- Second strong person or Engine support bar (to lift supercharger-manifold assembly)
- 17mm crawfoot flare nut, like this set (used to loosen and tighten the fuel line nuts using torque wrench)
- Good hose clamps (ideally with flexible hose, some clamps are just weirdly turned/located)
- Good set of trim removal tools (for all these tough christmas tree clamps)
- Magnetic pickup tool (I dropped bolts and tools inside the engine bay waaay to often)
- Foldable mirror (to see all connectors that must be disconnected behind the engine)
- Very short and small T30 wrench (like this, handy for behind engine work, especially with rear crossover manifold)
Torque values:
- Throttle body to supercharger: 10Nm
- Intake manifold to the engine block: 25Nm, starting from middle bolts inside manifold
- Intercooler to intake manifold: 25Nm, starting from the 4 hex bolts in the middle
- High pressure Fuel line nuts: 21Nm
- Intake manifold to supercharger (if replacing supercharger): 25Nm
- For plastic pipes I used 10Nm for both front and rear manifolds
On top of Front and rear manifold I have also replaced spark plugs (20Nm), primary and secondary belt tensioner pulleys, air filters (I used old air filters as tool stands), PCV valve (the car now idles much smoother), bunch of hoses as mentioned previously by others, thermostat and waterpump.
Next to replace are: fan (need special tools to remove), both belts (primary belt needs fan removal to replace), remaining idler pulleys (much easier with fan removed).
Overall very happy, no catastrophic failure (so far!), no overheating, and engine works much quieter now (that snout spring and PCV valve made a very noticable difference)
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