jlglr4
Full Access Member
If my memory serves, I seem to think that’s a blanked-out plug and nothing is attached. I think if you look (or stick your finger in), you’ll find it goes nowhere.
2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement
- Thread starter jlglr4
- Start date
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ausphil
New Member
Thanks guys! You are right - it is plugged off. Was going crazy here!
Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
Yep. I’m pretty sure it’s a bursting disc and is vented to atmosphere. Have a google and it’ll make sense.
Either way there was nothing attached
Either way there was nothing attached
ausphil
New Member
Got my repair all wrapped up. Special thanks to Michael Gain, jlglr4, slimpickins for the pics & tips in various threads. My learnings/takeaways:
- Didn't bother with the fuel relay, there wasn't much fuel leakage from disconnecting the fuel rail after letting the car sit overnight.
- Black bracket at back of supercharger was definitely a PITA. Used a torx bit taped inside a mini wrench.
- Specialized hose clamp tool is a must. Bought one years ago for previous cars and definitely came in handy especially for some of the hose clamps that are glued in position and may not have the best clearance for any other type of tool.
- Had to stand on the engine/engine bay multiple times to reach the back.
- Be careful with tools/parts easy to drop/lose them. Had to get my boroscope and flexible pick-up tool after dropping PCV valve spring and T30 torx bit (this one multiple times)
- I considered getting the lift for the supercharger that has been shown in the jaguar DIYs but after measuring the engine bay width, I don't think the feet for those ones at Harbor Freight/Amazon/Princess Auto go wide enough.
- I bolted a couple brackets from an old trailer tongue jack into the supercharger, used the pry points as previously mentioned and pulled up on the supercharger, and rocked back and forth to get it off. Had to essentially crouch on top of the engine bay to get the right position/leverage to pull it off. See pic below:
- DIY guide bolts, agreed are a must for reinstall. I only used two but prob best to use at least 4. Also greased up the locator pins for next time.
- Agreed with the map sensor removal, just remove the whole sensor, easier than trying to get the connector off.
- Radiator fan is regular thread, lefty loosy!
- Bleeding procedure was fairly straightforward as long as you follow the workshop manual instructions and raise the expansion tank the minimum height.
- Car started fairly roughly, had multiple misfires (CEL came on) until we took it around the block and restarted the car couple times. Runs smooth now.
- Didn't bother with the fuel relay, there wasn't much fuel leakage from disconnecting the fuel rail after letting the car sit overnight.
- Black bracket at back of supercharger was definitely a PITA. Used a torx bit taped inside a mini wrench.
- Specialized hose clamp tool is a must. Bought one years ago for previous cars and definitely came in handy especially for some of the hose clamps that are glued in position and may not have the best clearance for any other type of tool.
- Had to stand on the engine/engine bay multiple times to reach the back.
- Be careful with tools/parts easy to drop/lose them. Had to get my boroscope and flexible pick-up tool after dropping PCV valve spring and T30 torx bit (this one multiple times)
- I considered getting the lift for the supercharger that has been shown in the jaguar DIYs but after measuring the engine bay width, I don't think the feet for those ones at Harbor Freight/Amazon/Princess Auto go wide enough.
- I bolted a couple brackets from an old trailer tongue jack into the supercharger, used the pry points as previously mentioned and pulled up on the supercharger, and rocked back and forth to get it off. Had to essentially crouch on top of the engine bay to get the right position/leverage to pull it off. See pic below:
- DIY guide bolts, agreed are a must for reinstall. I only used two but prob best to use at least 4. Also greased up the locator pins for next time.
- Agreed with the map sensor removal, just remove the whole sensor, easier than trying to get the connector off.
- Radiator fan is regular thread, lefty loosy!
- Bleeding procedure was fairly straightforward as long as you follow the workshop manual instructions and raise the expansion tank the minimum height.
- Car started fairly roughly, had multiple misfires (CEL came on) until we took it around the block and restarted the car couple times. Runs smooth now.
Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
Snappa pry bar in the gap in the casting between the sealing faces. It comes off with a bit of force as it’s effectively glued in place by the silicon that you use to create the gasket.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
I removed the drivers side manifold from the supercharger and found a decent pry point there. gave it a little pop with a pry bar.
Thanks guys, came right off.
Last edited:
Update for the weekend. I worked on the truck a few hours Sat/Sun/Mon, going slow and taking my time and got the following accomplished:
1) All Coolant hoses removed.
2) Belts removed: I have tensioners for both belts with a 3/8 hole to insert a ratchet extension. I was thinking I would have to use a belt removal tool for the stretch belts.
3) Radiator removed to clean: This will go much easier the next time, but after you remove all the hoses, and the two large bolts, and 2 small (8mm socket) sheet metal screws, come around to the front and remove the trans cooler pipes from the open faced clamp, then come back around to the back drivers side and slip it out of the clamps at that end. Once this is done, you can lift up the Rad/Cond assy and gently move it around to remove the 6 8mm sheet metal screws that hold the cond, then you can pull the Rad back, angle up on the pass side and pull it out. There was one xmas tree fitting on pass side that it kept hitting so I removed that as well.
4) Intercooler/SC/Intake: I removed the Engine Cover retaining bracket on the rear (2x8mm bolts) but left the wiring bracket attached to the rear of the SC, as I was much easier for me to pull out the xmas wire clamps. Then removed the 22 tore bolts that hold the IC to the SC and it came right off. The SC was tricker, as I could not get that electrical connection to come loose on the Dr side rear of the SC, ended up using a 7mm deep to remove the sensor. I removed the 6 10mm bolts, then pulled out my trusty engine hoist, attached a chain to two 13mm 60-70mm bolts with large washers, attached the hoist to the chain and put mild upward pressure on the SC as I rocked it back and forth and it came right out.
So, I have everything off now, going to order a few more coolant hoses, specifically the one that runs up pass side to the rear cross pipe, both hoses that connect to the Aux Radiator, and the hose that runs under the intercooler. I'm just going to replace them all, as well as the pipes so I don't have to do this for another 6 years or 80K miles. Also doing the WP and Therm.
Now, my coolant pipes, with 82K on them were in VG cond, not brittle at all like some of the BMW ones I've replaced in the M54 engines. The "Y" pipe that goes into the block came out, but because I had to wiggle it a bit, I broke off about 2mm on the other side of the o-ring on one of the pipes that goes into the block, the other one came out intact.
I've replaced many (6) of the coolant pipes on BMW M54 engines, and they all break when removing from the block, and only had one that ever leaked, that forced me to replace, and it actually failed at the other end that connected to a hose. Even though it broke at the block coming out it was completely dry before removing.
So I'll order the additional hoses, SC oil and coupling, and start putting it back together next weekend.
The one thing I did do, was immediately after removing all the hoses, I reassembled them on the garage floor, so I would not forget, as this is by far the most complicated cooling system I've ever seen. Gone are the one lower, one upper rad hoses. Or even better, air cooled 911.
If I think of anything else that might help someone I'll add it....Thanks to Stuart;Michael,jlglr4,greiswig and others that have posted their experiences as well. It's really not that bad after you've done it once to learn all the steps...
1) All Coolant hoses removed.
2) Belts removed: I have tensioners for both belts with a 3/8 hole to insert a ratchet extension. I was thinking I would have to use a belt removal tool for the stretch belts.
3) Radiator removed to clean: This will go much easier the next time, but after you remove all the hoses, and the two large bolts, and 2 small (8mm socket) sheet metal screws, come around to the front and remove the trans cooler pipes from the open faced clamp, then come back around to the back drivers side and slip it out of the clamps at that end. Once this is done, you can lift up the Rad/Cond assy and gently move it around to remove the 6 8mm sheet metal screws that hold the cond, then you can pull the Rad back, angle up on the pass side and pull it out. There was one xmas tree fitting on pass side that it kept hitting so I removed that as well.
4) Intercooler/SC/Intake: I removed the Engine Cover retaining bracket on the rear (2x8mm bolts) but left the wiring bracket attached to the rear of the SC, as I was much easier for me to pull out the xmas wire clamps. Then removed the 22 tore bolts that hold the IC to the SC and it came right off. The SC was tricker, as I could not get that electrical connection to come loose on the Dr side rear of the SC, ended up using a 7mm deep to remove the sensor. I removed the 6 10mm bolts, then pulled out my trusty engine hoist, attached a chain to two 13mm 60-70mm bolts with large washers, attached the hoist to the chain and put mild upward pressure on the SC as I rocked it back and forth and it came right out.
So, I have everything off now, going to order a few more coolant hoses, specifically the one that runs up pass side to the rear cross pipe, both hoses that connect to the Aux Radiator, and the hose that runs under the intercooler. I'm just going to replace them all, as well as the pipes so I don't have to do this for another 6 years or 80K miles. Also doing the WP and Therm.
Now, my coolant pipes, with 82K on them were in VG cond, not brittle at all like some of the BMW ones I've replaced in the M54 engines. The "Y" pipe that goes into the block came out, but because I had to wiggle it a bit, I broke off about 2mm on the other side of the o-ring on one of the pipes that goes into the block, the other one came out intact.
I've replaced many (6) of the coolant pipes on BMW M54 engines, and they all break when removing from the block, and only had one that ever leaked, that forced me to replace, and it actually failed at the other end that connected to a hose. Even though it broke at the block coming out it was completely dry before removing.
So I'll order the additional hoses, SC oil and coupling, and start putting it back together next weekend.
The one thing I did do, was immediately after removing all the hoses, I reassembled them on the garage floor, so I would not forget, as this is by far the most complicated cooling system I've ever seen. Gone are the one lower, one upper rad hoses. Or even better, air cooled 911.
If I think of anything else that might help someone I'll add it....Thanks to Stuart;Michael,jlglr4,greiswig and others that have posted their experiences as well. It's really not that bad after you've done it once to learn all the steps...
