Alternative to Dealer Only Castrol Professional "E" for 2014-16 LR4's

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Flat-Six

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FWIW, This only applies to 2014-16 LR4's, as LR changed/updated the oil spec on the SCV6. The V8 has a different oil spec. Now, not sure if the differences (oil spec for SCV6 vs V8) really matter, or was it just for gas mileage.

Regardless, Interesting replies. I'll prob be going to a 5/20 or 0/20 (based on season) AMSOIL.
 

gsxr

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I'll prob be going to a 5/20 or 0/20 (based on season) AMSOIL.
Unless you live in the Arctic, there will be no real-world difference between the 5/20 and 0/20. The zero-weight stuff is strictly to squeak out another 0.000x% in fuel economy.

I should have my first UOA from 5W-20 Red Line in a few months.
 

iSurfvilano

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Unless you live in the Arctic, there will be no real-world difference between the 5/20 and 0/20. The zero-weight stuff is strictly to squeak out another 0.000x% in fuel economy.

I should have my first UOA from 5W-20 Red Line in a few months.

not sure the fuel efficiency reason is the whole reason they switched to 0 weight...I will ask my buddy who is a master tech at the dealership next time I see him but I believe it's because they found the heavier weight wasn't reaching certain, tighter areas of the engine...maybe because of the start/stop function on these years? I can't remember...however, I will have to ask when I see him in a couple weeks, but I specifically remember him saying it wasn't solely for fuel efficiency.
 

Flat-Six

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not sure the fuel efficiency reason is the whole reason they switched to 0 weight...I will ask my buddy who is a master tech at the dealership next time I see him but I believe it's because they found the heavier weight wasn't reaching certain, tighter areas of the engine...maybe because of the start/stop function on these years? I can't remember...however, I will have to ask when I see him in a couple weeks, but I specifically remember him saying it wasn't solely for fuel efficiency.

I'd be interested to hear his response....
 

scott schmerge

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not sure the fuel efficiency reason is the whole reason they switched to 0 weight...I will ask my buddy who is a master tech at the dealership next time I see him but I believe it's because they found the heavier weight wasn't reaching certain, tighter areas of the engine...maybe because of the start/stop function on these years? I can't remember...however, I will have to ask when I see him in a couple weeks, but I specifically remember him saying it wasn't solely for fuel efficiency.

I run 0w20 in mine for specifically the 0w at startup. It’s to keep lubrication at low temp and provide the same performance as spec oil at temp. Improved fuel efficiency is minimal, it’s more about getting the oil where it needs to go while the engine is cold.

I’m not an oil geek, but just made the most sense to me.
 

ktm525

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There is no real world viscosity differences between )w and 5W at your "cold" start up temps. You live in North Carolina lol. As you get to real arctic type conditions there is a difference between 0W and 5W as you approach cold pour temps (-35C and -40C). Here is a chart of viscosity I yanked from BITOG. You can see the syn 0W differences at -20C (-4F) and below. If you are not seeing these temps then there is no advantage in 0W.

Capture18.PNG
 

scott schmerge

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There is no real world viscosity differences between )w and 5W at your "cold" start up temps. You live in North Carolina lol. As you get to real arctic type conditions there is a difference between 0W and 5W as you approach cold pour temps (-35C and -40C). Here is a chart of viscosity I yanked from BITOG. You can see the syn 0W differences at -20C (-4F) and below. If you are not seeing these temps then there is no advantage in 0W.

View attachment 10584
Point taken, still just makes me feel better lol.
 

gamh2001

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Oil was 13.95, and Filter was 33. I'll be looking at AMSOIL going forward and another source for the filter. Thanks for all the responses.

tim
I'm giving it Amsoil a try in my '12 LR4 and '11 RRS... 0-20W... Drove the RRS Texas to Floridad after oil change and so far so good... However a will check/change oil again after 7,500 miles. I was changing Castrol synthetic oil every year or 15,000 miles whichever came first with no problems at all.
 

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